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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just picked up (or rather, had it delivered) my first cub cadet riding mower. its the 40th anniversary series 3000. so its a 2001. its got a 54" deck and it only has 600 hours on it. i got the Cub and a home made utility trailer (painted and decaled to look factory) to pull behind it for $440.

curious to hear from the minds here on how i did, and what things i should keep an eye on with it?

Inside the trailer is the chrome hub caps, (that i plan to polish and re-install) and also the side engine covers, which will also be installed. and the whole thing needs a bath!

Please excuse my mess of a garage, its a work in progress.
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Welcome to MTF!
 

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just picked up (or rather, had it delivered) my first cub cadet riding mower. its the 40th anniversary series 3000. so its a 2001. its got a 54" deck and it only has 600 hours on it. i got the Cub and a home made utility trailer (painted and decaled to look factory) to pull behind it for $440.

curious to hear from the minds here on how i did, and what things i should keep an eye on with it?

Inside the trailer is the chrome hub caps, (that i plan to polish and re-install) and also the side engine covers, which will also be installed. and the whole thing needs a bath!

Please excuse my mess of a garage, its a work in progress.
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You stole that thing. I also have a 3240 and it is a beast of a GT. The biggest problem with them is Cub put plastic bushings in the pedal linkages which wear out and make them drive slow. People think the hydro is weak and dump them cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You stole that thing. I also have a 3240 and it is a beast of a GT. The biggest problem with them is Cub put plastic bushings in the pedal linkages which wear out and make them drive slow. People think the hydro is weak and dump them cheap.
thank you, that is good to know. it doesnt seem to drive slow, but i dont have anything to compare it to. are the bushings for that linkage right below the floor board at the pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how does the seat safety switch work? i'd like to disable it. even driving it the little bit i did last night when it was delivered, i bounced enough that it died. it seems crazy touchy.
 

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how does the seat safety switch work? i'd like to disable it. even driving it the little bit i did last night when it was delivered, i bounced enough that it died. it seems crazy touchy.
One of the forum rules is not talking about disabling safety switches.

The bushings are below the linkages and along the linkages. Some of us have put bronze bushings in the linkages for a lifetime fix. Lemme see if I can find some threads for ya.
 

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Bushings:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One of the forum rules is not talking about disabling safety switches.

The bushings are below the linkages and along the linkages. Some of us have put bronze bushings in the linkages for a lifetime fix. Lemme see if I can find some threads for ya.
oops. that seems fair to not talk about disabling safety switches. sorry.

and thank you for the links to other posts. i will start my research!!!
 

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how does the seat safety switch work? i'd like to disable it. even driving it the little bit i did last night when it was delivered, i bounced enough that it died. it seems crazy touchy.
First of all WELCOME to MTF ...please take note that any discussions of bypasssing safety features for other than trouble shooting purposes is specifically prohibited ..please peruse the House Rules found here MyTractorForum.com House Rules .... safety features are there for good reasons...other than that it sounds like you did extremely well with that purchase...good luck with it and operate safely
 

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Welcome to the forum! Wow, like Steve said, you kinda stole that, but in a good way! From everything I've seen here, those are beasts, and extremely capable. That's a phenomenal price, lucky you! Especially if it's in good shape. The hours seem good to me. A heavy-duty GT, for maybe less than the price of a used light-duty LT, is awesome! Enjoy it!
 

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how does the seat safety switch work? i'd like to disable it. even driving it the little bit i did last night when it was delivered, i bounced enough that it died. it seems crazy touchy.
We cannot help on the forum with disabling safety devices, it's against the rules. Nice pickup on the new 2U Cub BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
do the springs under the seat have tension adjustment? the previous owner is bigger than i am, if the tension was set high for him, that may help explain why the sensor seems touchy to me?

i've only ever owned one other riding mower, and it was nowhere near as nice as this piece of machinery is. just trying to learn as i go about the bells and whistles it has
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What engine came in that ?
i believe its a 22 hp. not sure if its a kohler or a kawasiki. i have not looked into it super deeply. i plan on giving it a deep cleaning in the next couple days.
 

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The big visible springs are just for comfort/suspension, I believe. You would need to look more closely at the seat-sensor switch to see if there is any adjustment possible. Perhaps you could shim the switch just-slightly, to help it trigger with a little less weight?

I'm not a big guy either, and sometimes my seat switch will trigger, and kill the blades, if I go over a bump too quickly and I bounce in the seat.
 

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how does the seat safety switch work? i'd like to disable it. even driving it the little bit i did last night when it was delivered, i bounced enough that it died. it seems crazy touchy.
As you've heard by now, talk of disabling is against forum rules. If you're curious as to how seat safety switches work for troubleshooting purposes, here you go:

In general, a seat safety switch is normally in a "closed" position. In other words, current can pass through it. If you had a brand new seat safety switch on your workbench, you should be able to use a multimeter and detect continuity through the switch. When on the tractor, the switch sits between the kill wire of the engine and ground. When you sit on the seat, the weight of your posterior "opens" the switch, thereby breaking continuity between the kill wire and ground, allowing the engine to run. If you remove that weight (get up, fall off the seat, etc.), the switch closes, continuity between the kill wire and ground is restored, and the engine dies.

If you feel your switch is overly sensitive, a new switch is worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks everyone. does the seat slide forward and back at all? the PO was also taller than me. if im sitting forward on the seat, that would make the switch more easily tripped when i bounce.
 
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