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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just drove by and happened to get a 'new to me' blade for my GT2544. I purchased the blade, weight bracket, and 4 suitcase weights for $450.00. I wasn't even in the market for it, but this was one of those too good to pass up. I was curious about how much a blade cost and my dealer quoted me $720 for the blade alone.

The gentleman upgraded to a new yanmar from a GT2550, I saw the for sale sign on the mower with the blade mounted and he was nice enough to break it apart and sell it separately.
 

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Just drove by and happened to get a 'new to me' blade for my GT2544. [...] he was nice enough to break it apart and sell it separately.
And from what I've read in other MTF posts you probably both made out in the deal by having him break it up. Seems to be the common belief that the seller makes more overall by breaking up a tractor/attachment set, and since you only wanted the attachments, you got what you needed too.

Of course somebody here will probably point out that "you could'a bought a whole (insert old iron tractor here) for $450 and it'll outlast you and your grandchildren!", but in my book, if it was a deal to you, then it was a deal.

Do you see much snow around those parts of WV?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya, I was on my "quest" for an IH when I came across this, my wife already let me know about it something to the effect of "now you don't need blah blah blah..." I sorda phased her out :)

I did a little more looking at pricing new stuff for the blade, rear weight bracket, and 2 weights I would have had over $1,100.00 Considering I got all that but a total of 4 weights I'm pleased. Who knows whenever I do get my IH there may be some stuff I can use on it.

We get decent snow from late Oct through April, nothing like your way I'd say. Our last true blizzard was about 10 years ago 3ft+ at once. Now we usually average 6 or 7 storms 10+ inches at once, good high moisture content snow, perfect snow ball stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone know or have they modified their blade so that the spring trip doesn't work. I could move a lot more stuff if the blade didn't keep flopping foward.
 

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Should be easy enough to do with a couple bolts through the blade where it separates from the plate during foldover, but I wouldn't recommend it. You might just turn bend into break. I'd look for some stiffer springs perhaps.

My blade's foldover spring has a tension adjustment that seems to go from "very floppy" to very firm (almost rigid). Maybe if your's doesn't have something like this you could fab it up.

Basically there's a long threaded bolt floating inside the spring and the spring narrows down at the end so that the head of the bolt can't come through. The small end of the bolt goes through a hole at the top of the blade and is captured by a large wingnut of sorts. When you crank down the wingnut it pre-loads the spring so it takes more force to overcome the spring tension and flip the blade.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's what I have.... I looked at my grandpa's blade today (craftsman GT/V 16) and his is a spring trip, but it has a place for a bolt to go and make it rigid only.
 

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I bypassed the spring trip on one of my blades, there was a flange that the blade sat against and I drilled two holes and two bolts and good to go, that blade was almost useless with the wimpy springs that came on it (also non adjustable) about 50 cents for bolts was worth it. I had to watch 0ut I didn't hit any thing two hard or I got the steering wheel bashed into my guts. You could use a piece or two of chain or aircraft cable to bypass the springs maybe leave some slack so the blade will give some but not all the way forward that would be easy and would save from breakage of you and the plow.
 

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Looking at your photo another way to stiffen the spring force is to relocate the lower spring attachments to somewhere on that blade frame closer to the tractor.

As they are right now, when the blade tips it doesn't stretch the springs very far because of the geometry of where they are attached. Mounting them more horizontal and less vertical should do the trick.
 

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Looking at your photo another way to stiffen the spring force is to relocate the lower spring attachments to somewhere on that blade frame closer to the tractor.

As they are right now, when the blade tips it doesn't stretch the springs very far because of the geometry of where they are attached. Mounting them more horizontal and less vertical should do the trick.
That is a great idea! I'm going to try that with mine
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there is a bar with cotter pins on each side at the bottom that the springs hook to. I haven't took much time to see if that can be re-located. You know how a new toy is, play first then read and see what it can do...

I really was hoping that it would be somewhat more like the quick attach accessories on the 1000 series so that I could leave the front mounting bracket on and just pop the blade off, oh well, I'm not going to complain, the ease of deck dismount makes up for those 5 minutes worth of hassle.
 
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