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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i bought it with a nasty vibration that got worse with rpm. i was hoping it was just universals, and it is, i think. i am in the middle of takikng it out and HOLEEE-MOLEEEE, what a pain, i mean for a drive shaft. any way, enough complaining. where can i get these non greasable ujointed shafts? or should i get greasable, and eliminate the mesh shroud that makes it hard to get to.

any help is appreciated.
 

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The last time I checked with New Holland, replacement is available as a complete driveshaft/U-joints unit only.
Price was over $400.
If you have a welder, a cutoff saw, a little mechanical ability and lots of patience, you can install REAL (greasable) u-joints by building your own driveshaft.
I did this a couple of years ago.
I bought the necessary parts from TSC for about $135 as I recall.
Between my LGT-18H and two LGT-17H parts machines, I found none to have U-joints that weren't worn out.
I toyed with the idea of adapting a "rag-joint" type driveshaft from the Jake built LGT-165 but was not sure whether or not it would hold up to the extra torque of the Magnum 18 engine.
 

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Just an idea, but the last time I was at tractor supply it looked like they hard parts and even replacement shafts that might work.
 

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1981 Ford 1100 4WD
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Yep - my LGT14H is in the same shape. It will probably last another year or two and it will be ready for the u-joint repair. After 20 years they just dry up and wear out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ya know? i was hoping i could just fix it myself. rather than buy another nongreasable, and be oh so sad in a few years. say what you will about belts, but i've never paid $861.20 for one. and thats what they want at the 2 places near me for this shaft. the shaft, i'll give them the shaft, no good 8hundredsome sasafrassin piece o'..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hey guys guys!! i got it, finally! sorry i haven't posted but it might have just been swear words til now.. so i took brian g and flejl's advice and went to tsc.
$150. not bad. for the yoke that i would be cutting off, i bought the one with the biggest keyed fitting. this diameter is a liitle smaller than the diameter on the plate (id) that mounts to the motor. so i thought i could eyeball it up or caliper it some how for center. welded it. put it all back together. IT LASTED 5 SECONDS and snapped my welds. i think this is a combo of being off center and moderate welding. so.... i take it to the local welder, and machinist. i had the machinist make me a plug with the 2 diameters to hold it center. then had it welded for real. $80 machining (ouch) $20 welding. (not bad). well other mods were, lifting the battery plate up and grinding out part of the crossmember so the knuckle don't hit. the only problem i have now is that i couldn't fit the hydro fan on the new shaft. how bad do you think that is?
i have some small DC fans that i could mount one on the mower deck, but thats only good when the deck is on.

oh yeah anyone want to buy or rent a home made lgt 18 driveshaft centering tool? ha ha
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
looks like we went about it the same way, just that my first attempt didn't work, so i threw money at it.
 

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I used the original fan. As I recall, I had to cut the center out with a hole saw to the dia. of the new U-joint. There was only a small difference.
 
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