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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well- got a good start on mounting- ok- learned a couple things so far- I centered the under-frame beam on the tractor frame- them measured my uprights to center 30.75" to mount the loader arms- I noticed I did need to drop my rear cylinder mounts about .75" to gain enough clearance for full sweep of the hydro pedal-I was looking at the pump mount- and now I have interference with the cylinder steel line- and when I look at the front wheels- I am off center -looks like I need to gain that 1" back by shifting the underframe beam over- it looks like the proper mount for the pump- looks like you need to drill 3 holes thru the frame of the tractor? can`t I drive the pump off one of the pto sheaves? if I get that inch back- I could remount the rear cylinder ears back where they belong- it would put me pretty close to the muffler too-
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It looks like there are several inches between the muffler and that hose. Don't sweat it. it's only a concern when the loader is in that particular position, and that is only for a few seconds at a time.

Make a habit of tilting the bucket all the way forward when you park the tractor. That will keep the hose away from the exhaust flow if you're idling the engine for warm-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yes I think I will be allright now- I does appear I do have the incorrect pump mount- looking at the manual- will make a new one- I need to put my fittings in the uprights- looks like a 3/4" coupling at bottom for suction and a 1/2" on top for return- what about the breather? is this where you fill it too? is that just a nipple with a pipe cap? I understand it needs to be at top end to get enough oil in the tube- oh- think I should put a filter on? I see the original has a screen at bottom-
 

· Young Bolens Collector
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You are going to build mounts to the front end, correct? Because that disperses the stress along the tractor. Alos you can make a light cross member across the motor to help with sturdiness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
YES- I was figuring out what I needed for the front bracing- I will use the front 2 axel support bolts like in the Johnson manual- come off that and go from their- the left side is really tight with the muffler- was considering moving it to go out the rear- but I think a good stout brace to the frame and a heavy length of flat bar up to the upright shout work- also I was figuring the oil capacity of my tube- far as I can tell- it`s like 175 cubic inches- I think a gallon is like 231 cubic inches?- don`t they just use one upright for the oil?- I think I may be short of oil even if I connect the 2 uprights- I will tie the bracing together also- topside behing fuel tank- thank-you guys you are a HUGE HELP- !
 

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I would make both able to hold fluid. The amount of fluid I have in my Johnson is just enough for the system to cool. I have only one post. If I was building custom posts, I would make they were tied together. It won't cost you much, a few bucks in hoses and fitting, and maybe a hour or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
as long as I need to weld it up- I may as well use both uprights- I did decided to move the muffler too- much easier to get the braces built- now I need to find the 4" pulley that goes onto the engine- will keep posted on progress--
 
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