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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Ok, not working. Did I make a mistake? It's not even making a clicking sound when I turned the key now. The odometer still goes on. One question, am I supposed to crimp the spade connectors on? I just basically plugged them into place on the relay but I don't I'm the relay but I don't know if there's anything else I should do with them I should do with them.
 

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am I supposed to crimp the spade connectors on?
You crimp the wires to the spade connectors. The spade connectors just push on to each other/the relay in this case. There should be some force required to push them on and to pull them off.

I would double check your wiring. My guess is you have the purple wires swapped. I only see one purple wire on the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
You crimp the wires to the spade connectors. The spade connectors just push on to each other/the relay in this case. There should be some force required to push them on and to pull them off.

I would double check your wiring. My guess is you have the purple wires swapped. I only see one purple wire on the relay.
I should clarify, I crimped the spade connectors onto the wires, but not onto the relay. Do I do that? Also, I connected the original purple wire to the relay. Where it came off of the solenoid, I replaced that with a red wire, like the red of the wiring I did, and then connected that to the relay. Do I need to buy purple wire?
 

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Did you make sure to put a fuse in the fuse holder. Originally it came with a 40amp you stated. Just making sure you circled back to put one in if you had already removed the 40 amp. Also, the color of the wire used will not affect the outcome as long as all wires are in the appropriate locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
Did you make sure to put a fuse in the fuse holder. Originally it came with a 40amp you stated. Just making sure you circled back to put one in if you had already removed the 40 amp. Also, the color of the wire used will not affect the outcome as long as all wires are in the appropriate locations.
I put a 20amp fuse in. I will have to double check the wires tomorrow or Monday and tell you where they all go.
 

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This is quite the saga. The color of the insulation doesn't matter in most cases. Some color codes are helpful from a safety point of view. Just remember to cut the blue wire, unless the bomb maker used all red wire.

 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
This is quite the saga. The color of the insulation doesn't matter in most cases. Some color codes are helpful from a safety point of view. Just remember to cut the blue wire, unless the bomb maker used all red wire.

Assuming I did everything correctly, what should I try next (or is something I did definitely wrong since the click sound is gone). I realize that if I knew what I was doing, this would be a half hour project. Thank you all for hanging in there with me! Even if its not working yet, I'm really enjoying learning how to fix it :)
 

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Do you have a meter?
This is a long thread and I don't remember if you had one or not.
A cheap one is fine. It just needs to measure DC voltage. The purple wire should be on one terminal of the relay coil (#86) and the other end of the coil should be connected to ground (#85). You should measure the voltage across those two pins with the voltmeter. When you turn the key to start there should be voltage (12ish volts) there.
 

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Assuming I did everything correctly, what should I try next (or is something I did definitely wrong since the click sound is gone). I realize that if I knew what I was doing, this would be a half hour project. Thank you all for hanging in there with me! Even if its not working yet, I'm really enjoying learning how to fix it
 

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I should clarify, I crimped the spade connectors onto the wires, but not onto the relay. Do I do that? Also, I connected the original purple wire to the relay. Where it came off of the solenoid, I replaced that with a red wire, like the red of the wiring I did, and then connected that to the relay. Do I need to buy purple wire?
OK, let me see if you are explaining this. You left the purple wire on the solenoid as it was. The other end of that purple wire is now on 87. Where does the wire that is now on 86 go? What is it connected to?
 

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I agree that we need to know what wire goes where! Such as:
Starter solenoid with battery terminal to relay #...
Starter solenoid (small terminal that WAS purple wire) to relay #...
Purple wire that WAS on solenoid coil to relay #...
Ground wire to relay #...
Then!
Verify ground bolt or grounded terminal on relay and battery Neg (-) have continuity.
Verity purple wire from tractor wing harness going to relay #... has 12ish volts when key is turned to "Start"

Going back to the very first post, solenoid "clicked", then didn't. If all connections to relay are correct and relay is getting power, I'm thinking bad solenoid. But first things first! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
OK, let me see if you are explaining this. You left the purple wire on the solenoid as it was. The other end of that purple wire is now on 87. Where does the wire that is now on 86 go? What is it connected to?
I disconnected the purple wire that was on the solenoid (I'm not sure where the other end went, the names of everything is new to me, but I left that end alone) and connected it to 87. The wire that's on 86 goes to where that purple wire was on the solenoid ( it was the small lower left hand bolt)
 

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That might be why you get nothing.

The purple wire should be on one terminal of the relay coil (#86) and the other end of the coil should be connected to ground (#85).
2512772


The purple wire provides +12V when it is time to start. That needs to connect to the relay coil. Depending on the relay (what protection is has, if any) it can make a difference which of the two coil connections is connected to ground and which is connected to the purple wire. You attached the purple wire to one of the contacts. You attached the solenoid to the coil. So, you got those two backwards. What did you connect everything else to. That might be the only mistake you made in following the schematic, or there might be more. It won't work till you get it exactly right.
 

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@Mark LI I'm chuckling, but I have done it SOOOOOOOO many times!
Or worse: taking the battery cable off 19 times on a job that takes 20 tries. Nothing like a blinding arc flash to remind you to disconnect the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
ok, just saw that you all wrote, so I'm going to read it after I post this. Here is where all the wires go:

85 to ground (same place relay is attached)
86 (old purple wire) runs to where the old purple came from
87 (new wire to replace purple) runs to where old purple went on solenoid
87a where I attached fuse holder (goes to top bolt of solenoid)
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
We had told you to disconnect the battery...did you reconnect it?
Yes. I was just moving the spade connectors on the relay to see the numbers and touched one to something that made a zapping sound. I guess I should've disconnected it again before I did that!
 

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assuming you have a "standard" relay like this:
2513135


85 to ground (same place relay is attached) -- OK
86 (old purple wire) runs to where the old purple came from -- OK
87 (new wire to replace purple) runs to where old purple went on solenoid -- OK
87a where I attached fuse holder (goes to top bolt of solenoid) -- NO

30/51 (the other side of the relay "switch") should be where you attach the wire from the fuse holder

With the way you have it wired up now, the relay should be clicking when you put the key to start. 85 and 86 are the relay coil. When you apply power to both, the relay should click/pull in. If that is not happening, the relay is not going to help and the problem is farther back in the circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
assuming you have a "standard" relay like this:
View attachment 2513135

85 to ground (same place relay is attached) -- OK
86 (old purple wire) runs to where the old purple came from -- OK
87 (new wire to replace purple) runs to where old purple went on solenoid -- OK
87a where I attached fuse holder (goes to top bolt of solenoid) -- NO

30/51 (the other side of the relay "switch") should be where you attach the wire from the fuse holder

With the way you have it wired up now, the relay should be clicking when you put the key to start. 85 and 86 are the relay coil. When you apply power to both, the relay should click/pull in. If that is not happening, the relay is not going to help and the problem is farther back in the circuit.
This is what I bought. I'm just seeing now that the diagrams said 30 that you all were showing me and that this one has 87a instead. Do I need to get get one that says 30 instead (with no 87a)?

2513138
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
assuming you have a "standard" relay like this:
View attachment 2513135

85 to ground (same place relay is attached) -- OK
86 (old purple wire) runs to where the old purple came from -- OK
87 (new wire to replace purple) runs to where old purple went on solenoid -- OK
87a where I attached fuse holder (goes to top bolt of solenoid) -- NO

30/51 (the other side of the relay "switch") should be where you attach the wire from the fuse holder

With the way you have it wired up now, the relay should be clicking when you put the key to start. 85 and 86 are the relay coil. When you apply power to both, the relay should click/pull in. If that is not happening, the relay is not going to help and the problem is farther back in the circuit.
Not sure why it has 87a on it. The listing says it should be 30, but its not.
 
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