Here's some photos.
John Deere F710 resurrection
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And the last of 'em for now.
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While waiting for some parts to show up I knocked together some adapters so I can pick this unit up on my lift with the tires and deck on.
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Got both adapters made and tested them out. Still have to build the rear ones.
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Found the PTO clutch was shot, explains the blown fuse and burned circuit board. I'll fix the board and add a separate 30A relay and fuse to take the load off the circuit board. New clutch on the way. Found a new single pulley ebay special for under $100. I'll find a way to swap the double pulley on it.
Also discovered the PTO belt tensioner and the deck belt tensioner pivots worn out, allowing the belts to ride off the pulleys. I'll have to rebush them.
Also discovered the PTO belt tensioner and the deck belt tensioner pivots worn out, allowing the belts to ride off the pulleys. I'll have to rebush them.
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Parts have begun to arrive! If I can stop finding things wrong with this tractor maybe I can start putting it together. The lawn is getting scary.
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To answer your question a bit more thoroughly, I had taken the deck off in the beginning and noticed there were no decent lift points on the machine. The whole left side from wheel to wheel is nothing but gas tank and on the right side there's a small bracket. I had put a lift pad on the deck lift arm, one on the bracket and one under the back which is how I got it in the air initially. It wasn't very stable and made me a bit nervous. Browsing turf lift equipment gave me the idea to build the adapters.
turf lift
I took a moment to get the flywheel off, hoping it wasn't severely stuck. Someone had boogered up the end of the crank and the first few threads. It took a bit but the Matco bolt puller once again proved it's worth and neatly plucked the flywheel off. Now I can fix the threads and replace the seal under the flywheel. The flywheel also has a small chunk out of it so I'm going to smooth it out and remove a corresponding amount 180 degrees over to restore balance to the flywheel.
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Today was a busy day. I smuggled the engine and parts into work where I have better light, better compressed air, and copious amounts of brake clean and other cleaners. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to snap pictures. The engine got an internal rinse and I decided to leave the rod that's in it be. Everything got cleaned and doused in 15w40 and the rod cap got torqued to spec. The ebay bearing plate which previously got a thorough disassembly and cleaning was installed with a new gasket and torqued. New crank seals were installed on either end and the flywheel was ground out 180 degrees from the damaged portion.
Brown Santa also left me a new PTO clutch and I tore into it. Nice looking unit, and you'd never know it didn't come out of a JD box.
I got to work trying to liberate my old pulley to swap onto the new unit. I center punched and drilled out the rivets on the drive springs, then ground them flat and finished them off with a punch.
Now it was time to get the new clutch apart. I had already removed the brake plate and springs and set to drilling. No going back now! I lined up the holes and oversized them to fit a 5/64 bolt snugly. Then I had to shorten the three bolts to clear the bearing. Once I did that I installed the bolts, added the lock washers and nuts with a drop of locktite and tightened them down. I then clamped an old diff pin in my vise as a mandrel and staked/centerpunched the end of the bolts to ensure the nuts never come off.
I swapped the old collar for the new and set it together. I set the airgap with the brake plate and sat back and admired my new clutch.
Brown Santa also left me a new PTO clutch and I tore into it. Nice looking unit, and you'd never know it didn't come out of a JD box.
I got to work trying to liberate my old pulley to swap onto the new unit. I center punched and drilled out the rivets on the drive springs, then ground them flat and finished them off with a punch.
Now it was time to get the new clutch apart. I had already removed the brake plate and springs and set to drilling. No going back now! I lined up the holes and oversized them to fit a 5/64 bolt snugly. Then I had to shorten the three bolts to clear the bearing. Once I did that I installed the bolts, added the lock washers and nuts with a drop of locktite and tightened them down. I then clamped an old diff pin in my vise as a mandrel and staked/centerpunched the end of the bolts to ensure the nuts never come off.
I swapped the old collar for the new and set it together. I set the airgap with the brake plate and sat back and admired my new clutch.
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Well, small update. Been fighting carburetor issues since I got this running, and during another bowl cleanout managed to strip out the threads for the bolt, rendering the carb useless. Well, finding a carb for one of these FC540V's has proven difficult. As a stop gap measure i severely modified a carb off a briggs and made it work for the rest of last year.
After searching for a new one and ordering a few that didn't fit I did a little backwards searching and found one that's identical. I'll get it bolted up and see how it runs, after I pull the tank and clean it out.
New Carburetor GS75 HD75 180 185 260 265 AM122852 M97274 M97275 For John Deere
After searching for a new one and ordering a few that didn't fit I did a little backwards searching and found one that's identical. I'll get it bolted up and see how it runs, after I pull the tank and clean it out.
New Carburetor GS75 HD75 180 185 260 265 AM122852 M97274 M97275 For John Deere
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