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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hullo.

I was given (well, I demanded, lol) a JD F710 mower. (FC540v) It was in rough shape. The clock shows 800 hours, the motor is loose in the chassis, the cowling has been taken off, the plastic fenders are all broken and a new coil swapped on. The drive tires were rotted off and it was a mess. but it showed promise. The deck is solid, one mandrel is a little noisy when spun, needs blades and belts and all of the fluids are pretty clean. Everything that is grease-able is as tight as new.

I put fresh tires and a battery on it, cleaned out the carb bowl and replaced a bad igniter and was rewarded with a running engine. Hooray, so I degreased and pressure washed the **** out of it and set about bolting the engine back down.

Uh oh.

One ear is broken, the other two are stripped out and a bolt broken off in the last hole. I found a bearing plate on ebay and bought it. Took the old one off and aside from the usual gunk in the bottom the engine is very clean inside, no rust and no appreciable wear on either the crankshaft output or the rod cap I removed.

Having read about the usual failure mode of this model engine chucking the rod I'm tempted to pull it down the rest of the way, put a new rod and rings in it all new gaskets and seals and reset the clock on this Kawasaki.

But my frugal side says just goop the new plate on with a new crank seal and rock on.

I know if I don't do it now I'll probably need to do it later.. just looking for opinions.

Looking to make this my long term residential grass cutter. The ol' MTD is begging to be put down.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's some photos.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
More
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And the last of 'em for now.
 

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Looks fun! My summer project last year was a similar R&R on a non-running F725. Their steering takes a bit of getting used to - I have a dent in the side of my above ground pool now which happened during my inaugural run - but I love it as a mower.

If this is going to be a long term ownership tractor for you, I'd fix what I needed to in the engine. You are that far in already, and if you think you will need to do it later anyway it seems to be a good choice to do it now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
While waiting for some parts to show up I knocked together some adapters so I can pick this unit up on my lift with the tires and deck on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got both adapters made and tested them out. Still have to build the rear ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Found the PTO clutch was shot, explains the blown fuse and burned circuit board. I'll fix the board and add a separate 30A relay and fuse to take the load off the circuit board. New clutch on the way. Found a new single pulley ebay special for under $100. I'll find a way to swap the double pulley on it.

Also discovered the PTO belt tensioner and the deck belt tensioner pivots worn out, allowing the belts to ride off the pulleys. I'll have to rebush them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Question- it's up in the air in your pictures... How's you do that, and if you did, why need rear adapters?

Great progress, BTW!
It's an automotive Challenger 2 post lift. I built the adapters to hook onto the lift pads. They fork the tire like a wrecker with a wheel lift. I have the mower kinda catty corner, or diagonal so I can get a lift pad under the rear weight which is flat. The majority of the weight on this tractor is on the front wheels, and even though the mower weighs 950 lbs on a 7,000 lb lift it bobs a bit on the longer arms. Ideally I'd drive into the lift and pick it up with the shorter front arms.

I'll build rear adapters so the weight is evenly distributed on the lift and I don't have a lift arm just hanging around.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Question- it's up in the air in your pictures... How's you do that, and if you did, why need rear adapters?

Great progress, BTW!
To answer your question a bit more thoroughly, I had taken the deck off in the beginning and noticed there were no decent lift points on the machine. The whole left side from wheel to wheel is nothing but gas tank and on the right side there's a small bracket. I had put a lift pad on the deck lift arm, one on the bracket and one under the back which is how I got it in the air initially. It wasn't very stable and made me a bit nervous. Browsing turf lift equipment gave me the idea to build the adapters.

turf lift

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I took a moment to get the flywheel off, hoping it wasn't severely stuck. Someone had boogered up the end of the crank and the first few threads. It took a bit but the Matco bolt puller once again proved it's worth and neatly plucked the flywheel off. Now I can fix the threads and replace the seal under the flywheel. The flywheel also has a small chunk out of it so I'm going to smooth it out and remove a corresponding amount 180 degrees over to restore balance to the flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Today was a busy day. I smuggled the engine and parts into work where I have better light, better compressed air, and copious amounts of brake clean and other cleaners. Unfortunately I didn't take the time to snap pictures. The engine got an internal rinse and I decided to leave the rod that's in it be. Everything got cleaned and doused in 15w40 and the rod cap got torqued to spec. The ebay bearing plate which previously got a thorough disassembly and cleaning was installed with a new gasket and torqued. New crank seals were installed on either end and the flywheel was ground out 180 degrees from the damaged portion.

Brown Santa also left me a new PTO clutch and I tore into it. Nice looking unit, and you'd never know it didn't come out of a JD box.

I got to work trying to liberate my old pulley to swap onto the new unit. I center punched and drilled out the rivets on the drive springs, then ground them flat and finished them off with a punch.

Now it was time to get the new clutch apart. I had already removed the brake plate and springs and set to drilling. No going back now! I lined up the holes and oversized them to fit a 5/64 bolt snugly. Then I had to shorten the three bolts to clear the bearing. Once I did that I installed the bolts, added the lock washers and nuts with a drop of locktite and tightened them down. I then clamped an old diff pin in my vise as a mandrel and staked/centerpunched the end of the bolts to ensure the nuts never come off.

I swapped the old collar for the new and set it together. I set the airgap with the brake plate and sat back and admired my new clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got a full day in and didn't take a single pic. Fully dressed the engine and fixed some wear on the frame where the engine mounts with some weld spray and a grinder, then mounted the engine and got everything hooked up.

I took some time to fabricate a brace for the right side fender where the controls are mounted. This is a weak point on these. The brace tags on the rollbar mount, under the right fender control bucket, ties into the parking brake release bracket then diagonal over to the frame. I will snap some pics. I swear I could stand on the fender now without damage.

I need to pick up an air filter, spark plug, some gas, load some oil into the engine and transaxle and I should be making laps tomorrow.

Oh, yeah, I need to put fresh tubes into the deck caster wheels. and fix the deck belt idler. That should be fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It runs and mows. Finally got the grass cut. Now I can sell the engine out of the MTD to my neighbor with a blown up scag and recoup some of the costs.

The way this thing drives and cuts is a world of difference compared to the MTD. The AG tires chew the bracket for the left deck gauge wheel on right hand slopes so I stacked some washers between the deck lift arms and the brackets with the spring pins and fixed that.

Then the axle pulley ate the seat switch harness and blew a fuse. Fixed that.

Found a load of water in the gas tank that flooded out the carb. Fixed that.

Seemed to be a bit slow, found someone had stomped the go pedal with the parking brake on and bent it. Rebent it back to get full travel out of the hydro lever and now it flat scoots.

I think it's a keeper.
 

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WOW, nice resurrection!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, small update. Been fighting carburetor issues since I got this running, and during another bowl cleanout managed to strip out the threads for the bolt, rendering the carb useless. Well, finding a carb for one of these FC540V's has proven difficult. As a stop gap measure i severely modified a carb off a briggs and made it work for the rest of last year.

After searching for a new one and ordering a few that didn't fit I did a little backwards searching and found one that's identical. I'll get it bolted up and see how it runs, after I pull the tank and clean it out.




New Carburetor GS75 HD75 180 185 260 265 AM122852 M97274 M97275 For John Deere
 

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Hello, I just recently picked up a F710. Could you tell me where you were able to find parts such as crank shaft seals? I need to replace one on my tractor and haven't found a place to purchase these little more obscure parts. Great rebuild by the way!

Thanks,
Mike
 

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great thread!
 
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