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Hey guys I’ve got a John Deere D105 mower that won’t start. I posted it about before because it wouldn’t go into gear. It wouldn’t run because the battery wasn’t working but I brought it to the store and had them charge it and brought it home and it started and ran. Day after I go to start it and the battery was at like 12.3 volts so I figured it was just a bad battery so I bought a new one and it’s still not starting. Doesn’t make any noise at all when you turn the key. I took some pics and posted em:


There’s two cables/wires that are loose and disconnected. One comes from the mower pto lever which I think has to be off to start so that could be a culprit. It’s the one with the big piece of metal coiled up at the end. The other looks it goes from the ignition down and then I’m not sure where it goes, it’s the one with the two wires that make a Y kinda. That could also be a culprit.

I tried banging the starter seeing if I could Unfreeze it Incase it’s frozen and that didn’t work so I don’t think it’s the starter plus it’s not making any noise at all. I think the seat safety switch could also be a culprit but I don’t get why it started and ran a week ago and didn’t the day after unless when I moved it inknocked one of those cables more loose or something. Fresh air filter and it ran with the new one so I doubt it’s that. Haven’t checked the fuel filter but from the outside it doesn’t look that bad. Haven’t checked the spark plug either yet.

I was wondering if you guys had any advice, maybe you’ve had the same problem I’m having and you know what I’m doing wrong. Any help would be very much appreciated,
Thank you
 

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Use a test light or voltage tester from the pos terminal on the battery to the chassis,,,sounds to me like ground is not connected also ...how did you post your pictures?...did you use your own method or the forum"s way?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Use a test light or voltage tester from the pos terminal on the battery to the chassis,,,sounds to me like ground is not connected also ...how did you post your pictures?...did you use your own method or the forum"s way?
Can I use a volt meter and connect the red to the positive, and then the black to where on the chassis? How would I see if the ground is connected? I posted them to some image hosting site I’m not sure how to use the forum to post pictures I’m pretty new.
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If you want to verify if the starter is working, take a pair of jumper cables and attach the black lead to the (-) battery terminal and the other end clamp onto the engine near the starter. Then take the red lead, attach it to the (+) battery terminal and then touch the red clamp onto the terminal on the side of the starter. If the starter spins and turns over the engine you'll know everything is okay starter-wise. I would then check the starter solenoid. Verify if it is getting power. You can try jumpering across the main terminals to see if the starter engages.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you want to verify if the starter is working, take a pair of jumper cables and attach the black lead to the (-) battery terminal and the other end clamp onto the engine near the starter. Then take the red lead, attach it to the (+) battery terminal and then touch the red clamp onto the terminal on the side of the starter. If the starter spins and turns over the engine you'll know everything is okay starter-wise. I would then check the starter solenoid. Verify if it is getting power. You can try jumpering across the main terminals to see if the starter engages.
I used a pair of jumper cables like you said and when I connected the red from the battery to the starter terminal it sparked like crazy but it did try to turn over the motor. Didn’t start though I didn’t wanna do it long enough cause I was worried about the sparking. Am I doing it right?
 

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I used a pair of jumper cables like you said and when I connected the red from the battery to the starter terminal it sparked like crazy but it did try to turn over the motor. Didn’t start though I didn’t wanna do it long enough cause I was worried about the sparking. Am I doing it right?
It sounds like you did it correctly. Yes, it will spark because the starter draws a lot of amps. If the starter cranked the engine normally then you know the problem is not the starter. Do you have a multi-meter? I would next check the starter solenoid. It is just a relay and when power is applied to the small terminals it basically shorts out the large terminals and applies 12v to the starter terminal. Solenoids go bad all the time. But... a faulty interlock switch will also prevent the starter solenoid from engaging.

2440502
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It sounds like you did it correctly. Yes, it will spark because the starter draws a lot of amps. If the starter cranked the engine normally then you know the problem is not the starter. Do you have a multi-meter? I would next check the starter solenoid. It is just a relay and when power is applied to the small terminals it basically shorts out the large terminals and applies 12v to the starter terminal. Solenoids go bad all the time. But... a faulty interlock switch will also prevent the starter solenoid from engaging.

View attachment 2440502
I think my volt meter is a multi meter I’ll check this morning. Also gonna try and get some alligator clips today, unless I can use the jumper cables? Can I leave the solenoid hooked up or do I have to take it out the mower to test it?
Thanks
 

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I think my volt meter is a multi meter I’ll check this morning. Also gonna try and get some alligator clips today, unless I can use the jumper cables? Can I leave the solenoid hooked up or do I have to take it out the mower to test it?
Thanks
You can leave it hooked up for the initial test, On the small terminals, one will go to ground and the other will have 12V when you turn the key to START (assuming that all safety interlocks are working properly). On the large terminals, one will go to the battery and the other will go to the terminal on the side of the starter (the one to which you touched your jumper cable). If working properly, when 12V is applied to the small terminal the relay will close and 12V will flow through the big terminals to the starter terminal. Sometimes these solenoids will burn up inside and even though they mechanically trip when voltage is applied, the contacts develop internal resistance and will prevent sufficient AMPS from getting to the starter.

Basically, if you don't see 12V on one of the coil terminals when you turn the ignition key to START it probably means one of your interlock switches is bad (seat, PTO, etc.). If you see 12V on the coil when you turn the key to START but the starter doesn't turn then the solenoid would be suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You can leave it hooked up for the initial test, On the small terminals, one will go to ground and the other will have 12V when you turn the key to START (assuming that all safety interlocks are working properly). On the large terminals, one will go to the battery and the other will go to the terminal on the side of the starter (the one to which you touched your jumper cable). If working properly, when 12V is applied to the small terminal the relay will close and 12V will flow through the big terminals to the starter terminal. Sometimes these solenoids will burn up inside and even though they mechanically trip when voltage is applied, the contacts develop internal resistance and will prevent sufficient AMPS from getting to the starter.

Basically, if you don't see 12V on one of the coil terminals when you turn the ignition key to START it probably means one of your interlock switches is bad (seat, PTO, etc.). If you see 12V on the coil when you turn the key to START but the starter doesn't turn then the solenoid would be suspect.
I think I hooked em up like that to the solenoid and it started to turn over and run for a second then the jumper cable got off the big terminal and now it’s just trying to turn over, can’t get it to start but I don’t want to keep trying as it’s clearly something electrical. There’s a yellow and black wire coupled together that comes off the ignition but I don’t know where it connects to, I think it could be that. I can’t find anything on the owners manual about it though. Could also be a seat switch but I doubt it cause all I did was move the thing. Or it could be that wire that ends in the metal coil that comes off the pto lever, but that one has always been disconnected and I think it goes to the deck which I don’t have. Where do you think I should start now?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just noticed this while i was checking out all the connections. Looks like it connects the solenoid, the ignition, and the ground together. Could that be what’s causing it not to start?
2440605
1C0A92FF-0EBC-482D-87F2-6BD2845E2A57.jpeg
2440606
 

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Absolutely, and the fuse value is too high. Should be a 20 amp. Did someone put a higher value fuse to cover a short somewhere? If so, there is the result of not fixing the problem first....
 

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Absolutely, and the fuse value is too high. Should be a 20 amp. Did someone put a higher value fuse to cover a short somewhere? If so, there is the result of not fixing the problem first....
Do you mean how it says 52? It might actually say 25 I don’t remember which way it goes in lol. Would 25 be right? How do I fix it? Can I cut the wires and tie em together or will that not work?
 

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Just noticed this while i was checking out all the connections. Looks like it connects the solenoid, the ignition, and the ground together. Could that be what’s causing it not to start?
There's no question that burn up fuse socket is causing some of your problems. Definitely replace it and see where you end up. The Owner's Manual shows this information:

Replacing Fuse
  1. Park machine safely. (See Parking Safely in the SAFETY section.)
  2. Lift hood.
  3. 2440664
    GXAL42047-UN-04MAR13
    Pull defective fuse (A) out of socket.

  4. Check metal clip in fuse window and discard fuse if clip is broken.
  5. Push new 20 amp fuse into socket.
  6. Lower hood.
The P/N for the 20A fuse is 57M7120.

Part Number:
57M7120
Part Price: 0.87 USD Each
Description: Fuse - FUSE, BLADE YELLOW 20 A
 

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Do NOT just cut off that fuse connector and join the two wires together. The purpose of the fuse is to limit the maximum amount of current through the circuit. Removing the fuse from the circuit means that if there is a short circuit to ground anywhere in that circuit, then the wire is immediately overloaded and will melt/catch fire, possibly also melting/setting fire to adjacent components on your tractor, and even possibly resulting in your tractor burning to the ground (if you are say, in the middle of a field without water/fire extinguisher immediately available).

The socket appears to have been physically damaged somehow, but replacement fuse holders of that style should be available at an auto parts store for not that much money. Replace it and put in the correct fuse.
 

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Definitely repair/correct the fuse issue.
You say "nothing happens" when you turn the key... Not even an initial "click" noise?
I ask this because I was having issues getting my mower engine to turn/crank for a long time. Mine would click, but the starter wouldn't turn/crank the engine. I thought it was an electrical/starter issue, but after I adjusted the valves it cranks perfect and now starts very easy.
 
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