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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I am new here, looking for some help. I have a 97 445 which I just changed out the cam and push rods and reassembled. When I try to start it, I have no spark at all at either cylinder. I have plenty of fuel, the pump runs for a couple seconds when i turn the key on. The green led light is on for the circuit board, the red light is not. All the safety switches seem to work as they should, if I disconnect them one at a time, the green led light goes out. I have pulled the fuse for the fuel pump so that I can troubleshoot the spark without getting fuel everywhere and in the muffler. What will cause no spark at both cylinders, I doubt if both coils went bad at the same time but that is always a possibility. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Matt.
 

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The Magnificent
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Welcome to the forum.

Do you have 12 volts to the primary of the coils?

If yes, when you attempt to crank, then swithc the key off, do you get a single spark?

If yes, it is either the crank sensor (or similar device - not sure what you have on that kawi), or the ignition module.

Make sure you cabled everything back up properly, including your grounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have no spark at the end when I turn off the switch and I have no voltage at the coil. I apologize, I do have 12 volts at the coil
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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check you connections and wiring
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All grounds are hooked up, all connections hooked up, most were never undone, just removed the front cover, muffler and valve covers to change the cam and push rods.
 

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Deere 330 Killer
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are the points gapping as they should?
 

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The 425 / 445 have a Time Delay Module (TDM) that can go bad, this can cause a array of electrical issues. Seems strange that this would be acting up now, might at least be worth checking out. I always keep a spare TDM around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have been told the TDM is on the 425 only, where would it be and what would it look like?
 

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The Magnificent
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The 445 lists no TDM. It does use a different type of coil.

Since you do have 12 volts to the coils, you should see one single spark when you turrn off the ignition. I'd suggest your plugs are not adequately grounded while you are testing the spark. A field build withen the coil, then collapses when the key is switched off, discharging the coil through the secondary winding.

I know it seems petty, but can you make sure the plugs are grounded?

Another way you can test the coils is to take the negative wire off, turn the key on, then use a jumper wire to short the negative side of the coil to a ground.

I know, what are the chances of two bad coils, but we need to check.

Could the flywheel key be sheared?



 

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The Magnificent
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Get out the ohm meter and check both coils? Plug Wires?

That item 14 in the pic - engine sensor. What does it control? Is there a crank sensor for timing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I have 12 volts at the center electrode of the plug when plugged into the coil and the switch turned on. Both coils (item 29 2ea.) have 12 volts, the coil in front of the flywheel (item 24) has continuity but no voltage. It's voltage comes from or goes to the voltage regulator, without the engine cranking, I don't know if it is normal for no voltage at this coil when not spinning with the power switch on.
 

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The Magnificent
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I'm about at the limit of what I can offer you without a schematic and service manual. One of the coils is referred to in the IPB as "pulsating" - I'm not sure what that means.

Going back to what you did since the last time it worked, I'd ask if it is at all possible you could have crimped, smashed, or pulled a wire loose? Could you have bent a pin in one of the connectors (or had a receiving pin pushed backwards)?
 

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I have the same issue 12 bold at both coils until I hit start, then both coils loose voltage and no spark, I replac s the ignition mod. Is the 445 fuel injection mod the same or do I have the wrong ignition mod?
 
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