My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 88 Posts

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've owned my 430 for a few weeks now and it's been great. I've performed some minor fixes and am now ready to tackle the hydro leak. Leaves a couple of 3"-4" diameter spots on my concrete overnight. The final drip points are the metal bracket to the left of the filter (if sitting on the tractor) and the botom of the suction tube. My sight glass level stays at the top which I find odd given the amount of leaking each night. If the level is at the top of the sight glass, is that too much? Should it stay more in the middle of the sight glass?

Could that be my problem right there? Overfilled?

I've tightened the filter and the hose clamps on the suction tube. I wiped down the entire unit last night and checked it this evening. The leak is definitely above the filter. I noticed no leaking around the filter. I'm not familiar enough with the tractor yet to know where it may be leaking above the filter. Hopefully, there are a few items to check up there. I'm concerned that I may not be too happy to hear them however given what I'll have to do to get to them. :)

Some pics below for what they are worth. I thought the rear output shaft may be the culprit as it leaks a bit too I believe but that is too far to the rear to make the leak that I'm seeing--at least I think it is.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks.





 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
Check the sight tube top line. On my 318 (same as 430) the top side of that sight tube line had come out of the frame holder and was drooping down (It has to remain high above the tranny fluid level). It was giving me a false reading and I end up over filling it, which caused it the leak out that top somewhere. Fixed the holder, drained some fluid out to the correct level. Never leaked again and gives the correct reading every time.

Just an idea, from experience.
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The sight tube is secured to the frame properly but I do see how that could cause a false reading. I'm wondering if I should dump a little fluid to get the sight tube level in the middle instead of the top and see how that does.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I'm new to the 430 as well. On your third picture is that hose on the right just a vent hose, or does in continue down to the top of the sightglass? Mine didn't have anything on it and it was leaking out of the hose barb when mowing a hillside.
 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
I would probably dump some. If it happens to get an air bubble in the sight tube when you last changed - it could cause you to overfill. And if you overfill - it will leak.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,317 Posts
Look, I think that thing is toast. You want me to come down and take it off your hands (free of charge naturally)? I can get there sometime tomorrow?

Being serious, I would agree. My 430 was leaking from somewhere when I first got it and it was overfull. Changed the fluid and and gave the trans pump and differential a good cleaning to figure out where from but it never leaked again....
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I suppose I should just let it go. What time can you be here tomorrow? :)

I'll dump some fluid tonight, clean it up and see what we get. Beyond that, I may do the ole' baby powder trick.

If that doesn't solve things, what fittings, etc. are on the top of the transmission that could be causing this?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,094 Posts
The white thing to the left in the one picture connects up to fill the tranny. There is a pin hole in there that acts as a breather. The sight tube is clear vynle-you may want to change yours as it looks like you have had a lot of red fluid in there and you may not be able to see the fluid from the staining. You don't have to drain even, you can just swap out and spill a little.

I had an air bubble in mine when I filled it. I plowed the day with it and found the sight tube was WAY over full and was leaking out the breather.

You may have a leak on the input shaft. Your swash plate control (the linkage that runs the tranny) looks mostly dry.

Your pressure hose that runs up the the steering valve (and then splits into the other control valve) may also be leaking as it is a pivoting fiting on the hose and the oring inside will wear out.

You don't have the relief valves with the external pins like me so the chances of those leaking is slim.

Your rear output shift looks dry-but if replaceing the input-replace the output as well.

You will NEED to take your fender deck off. 11/16 to get the shifter knob off, 1/2 to get the 4 nuts off for the fender deck, take the light harness off the rear lights and then have someone on each side to lift off as the suspension seat adds enough weight that it isn't fun lifting alone-but it can be done. Watch the tank spout on the fuel tank. Then lift the tank over the fender deck braces and set on the wheel. You can disconnnect the hoses if you want to remove-but not needed. If you leave the tank hooked up you can run the tractor-if you don't have hydro creep so your tank doesn fall off the wheel. Look where the leak is then.
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Dumped some fluid last night to level the sight tube off about in the middle. I've added just a bit since taking this photo to bring it up just a little bit.

I ran it around the yard last night for a good 20 minutes and as of this morning, no leaks on the ground, although I can see one possibly forming on the bottom of the suction tube. If it still leaks but it is minimal and the sight tube level does not change over a long period of time, I'll most likely live with it and continue to monitor it. I'll report back after I mow with it for an hour or two.

Thanks for the helpful posts guys. I've had the seat pan off before. Not a big deal. I didn't realize I could move the thank without disconnecting fuel lines. If I did disconnect the fuel lines at the tank, would I have to bleed it once I buttoned everything back up?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,094 Posts
I doubt you will have to bleed the lines but if in doubt you could bleed to the first screw. The onlything with air would be the pickup as the rest of the line would have fuel. It might pop and fart for a bit but it should be fine-although I know these little diesels HATE to have air in the system and takes a while to get it all out even bleeding the lines correctly.

As for the leak-I am a stickler for not likeing my machines leaking ANYTHING on a cement floor. If it sits outside or a dirt floor shed then I don't worry as much but if it is cement-it never fails with two youngsters, a wife and dog that one of them will walk through it and track it all over.

And another reason for you to check it-my brother had a leak as well. He left it and mowed a season with it. I finally convinced him he NEEDED to see where the leak was. He opened it up and the input shaft was leaking. He went to replace the seal and found the bearings were bad and the shaft had enough play to where the metal on the seal ate into the shaft. He had to buy a used pump (cheaper then a new shaft) and his system was full of metal (granted a 330 only has the front hyd outlets and the rockshaft cylinder-manual steering H1 system). That is when he put a 430 rearend in as he figured it would be cleaner then attempting to clean his rearend out. Just somthing to think abought.

I don't know if the 430 has a belly screen like the 332/330/322 but if it does the oil can make dirt stick and plug it easier.

Oil makes dirt stick to things much better-filter changes will get messy with all the added dirt.

Might be an easy fix or a early warning where it will be cheaper to fix now vs later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,094 Posts
Also-you can for maintenance purposes (per OSHA even) by pass the seat safety switch to run the tractor. Put it up on jack stands and run it with the fender deck off moving it back and forth along with using the other hyd functions including steering. See if you find the leak. Helps to have a dry clean area to start with so you can see the leak form. Otherwise-you may just see the leak area based off the wettest cleanest oil area as the oil will wash away the dirt but the dirt will stick on the edges.

FYI-my second 332 has a leaking input shaft. I just got the machine running 2 weeks ago and went to a couple plowing evens while I ordered the seals. It would leak for a minute and then stop-yours may be doing the same thing.
 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
Glad it seems to have stopped. Make sure you have all the old oil off of everything so that you know for sure it is leaking and not just a residual effect of the previous leak. Coalminer has a good idea about running it on some jack stands.
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Seat switch was not working when I bought even though it was plugged in so no problem there. Plan is to get that working again although it may keep me from mowing my ditch slope with it engaged. :)

Funny you mentioned the belly pan. I was looking through my manual last night and noticed it showed one. Mine has been removed by the PO. Sounds like they cannot be purchased new any longer. If you know where I can find one, please let me know.

Thanks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,317 Posts
A belly pan pops up on eBay occasionally. There was one on my 430, I looked for one that was in a little better shape and only saw one on eBay in about a month. Try Joes Outdoor Power. I know he had some 430 stuff a while back.
 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
Even if you find one that is cracked through the holes - they are easily fixed with some wire or zip ties.
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Well, mowed my yard and my neighbor's yard today (she tries to pay me $40 each time I mow it for her but I don't take a dime). About two acres worth. Leak is still there and just as bad as before. I figure I'll mow at least 2-3 more times this year and then I'll pop the fender deck and tank off before snow blading season. Really annoying seeing a leak that large under the tractor. I definitely verified that the rear output shaft is leaking but I'm guessing that is not the only area. I'll use this thread to ask questions when I get around to fixing it. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,094 Posts
If it is the output shaft and not the input-then it isn't too hard. 11/16 will pull your shifter for the two speed off. 1/2 for the 4 fender pan nuts. A twist of two light bulbs for the rear lights and it is off in a couple minutes. Much nicer working on things when it is more warm then cold out. Output shaft can be done in place with a couple screws punch/screwed in and then pulled out on the seal. Input is the same way but requires the rearend to basically come out. Jack stands on the frame and a rolling lift jack on the lower front tab and you can roll the rear end out with the wheels on. Take the 4 axle bolts off. The two cross member brace carage bolts, the pressure/return hyd lines, hydro linkage, shifter and diff lock pins, brack springs and nuts, and loosen drive shaft bolts. From there you can pretty much reseal almost anything. With all the parts-one weekend (including beer even if you need brakes).
 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
If it is the output shaft and not the input-then it isn't too hard. 11/16 will pull your shifter for the two speed off. 1/2 for the 4 fender pan nuts. A twist of two light bulbs for the rear lights and it is off in a couple minutes. Much nicer working on things when it is more warm then cold out. Output shaft can be done in place with a couple screws punch/screwed in and then pulled out on the seal. Input is the same way but requires the rearend to basically come out. Jack stands on the frame and a rolling lift jack on the lower front tab and you can roll the rear end out with the wheels on. Take the 4 axle bolts off. The two cross member brace carage bolts, the pressure/return hyd lines, hydro linkage, shifter and diff lock pins, brack springs and nuts, and loosen drive shaft bolts. From there you can pretty much reseal almost anything. With all the parts-one weekend (including beer even if you need brakes).
Good write-up. I was able to change a rear seal without removing the rearend, but in hind sight it might have been easier had I removed it.
 

·
Back in the Saddle
Joined
·
346 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Good write-up. I was able to change a rear seal without removing the rearend, but in hind sight it might have been easier had I removed it.
Which rear seal did you replace? Input or output shaft seal?
 

·
Shop = My Therapy
Joined
·
3,157 Posts
I changed the output shaft seal.
 
1 - 20 of 88 Posts
Top