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I am painting my 322 L&G tractor with John Deere paint. this tractor was powder coated by the factory. I removed all of the powder coating on all of the sheet metal except the the seat deck. I rattle can primed the bare sheet metal parts, and sanded the seat pan deck with 320 grit paper.
Now the questions.
1. Should I remove this primer and use something much better than the rattle cans?
2. Do I need to prime the seat deck, the existing paint is still there just sanded?
3. The JD paint says to use only JD thinner, my JD store only carries the thinner in one gallon can, I only need a couple of ounces can, I use something else? I am going to spray with an inexpesive HVLP gun and a 20 gallon 5 HP Craftsmen air comp.
4. Will one quart of paint do or do I need more?
5. Will the Valspar hardner sold at TSC work with this paint, or should I use a better hardner?

My goals are to have nice looking tractor with a paint job that will last.
I am a rookie at painting but I did paint my JD 314 L&G tractor with the same set up in 2005 and it turned out pretty good and is still holding up, I just don't remember overthinking it like I am doing now.
I hope some of you can help me improve on this job
Thanks in advance
 

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Hi Cokerta,

Chances are, the paint you purchased is one of two base types. Either synthetic enamel or acrylic.

If it's Acrylic enamel then the dealer (where your purchased the paint) will offer the catalyst (hardener) and the reducer (thinner) for the paint product you picked up. Often talking with the salespeople at a dealer provides little or no help. You can, however, pick up strong indications on the warning labels on the back of the product AND the label usually has a web-site address for the MSDS and clean up.

If the dealer doesn't offer anything other than 'thinner' it is most likely oil base paint. In this case there are several types of thinner substitutes like mineral spirits, Naphtha and in extreme cases of cold weather even Acetone can be added to chemically heat the paint/thinner combination. You can also use Valspar's "Restoration Series" hardeners, generic hardeners or, for the best results high line automotive acrylic hardeners (Like PPG's DXR-80).

We have a pretty fair paint tutorial here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=156 I urge you to read. There are about five parts but it should cover everything and all of the basics.

A big plus IS we have several very good painters, right here. Some are successful first timers and others are long time professionals (like me :D ). I believe all of them would be glad to jump in and help you along the way.

Good luck, keep us updated and take lots of pictures

Mark
 

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Synthetic enamel gives you incredible options. Just about anything used to reduce or harden Acrylic enamel can be used in synthetic oil base paints. It does NOT work the other way around though.


BTW, using a 20 gallon compressor with the HVLP gun will produce excellent results on your project. I hope you have the time to take pictures and show us your progress step by step. It sure helps many members who are thinking of following your path. :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mark I read the tutorial earlier today that is why I asked if I should remove the rattle can primer and reprime with two part epoxy and should I also prime over the painted seat deck. Based on the tutorial I think I might know the answer if I want a professional job. Thanks for taking the time to write the tutorial it has been extremely helpful.
 

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Well....

Rattle can primers aren't nearly as durable as two part epoxy primers. And all primers that aren't immediately color coated (with 24-48 hours) are a poor substrate to seal metals and composite materials. Epoxy primers are the exception to the rule and their price reflects that, as they are extremely expensive.

IMO, yes, I would sand down and remove as much of the rattle can primer as possible.

Just remember, when ever you hear "Two Part" or Hardener (Catalyst)" it's a painters 'heads up' about PPE or personal protective equipment. Gloves, eye protection and respirator are a must to prevent ingesting this stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Mark that is what I am going to do I wiil sand all the parts down tonight and prime in the morning. You were right about being expensive $ 58.00 for a quart of Nason primer and catalyst, I do have all of my ppe Tyvek suit, nitrile gloves, head sock,respirator and safety glasses. If I am leaving anything out let me know. Keep reminding yourself that I am a beginner and I appreciate all the guidance you can give.
Thanks
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK I got all of the sheet matal sanded down and I am going to make my first attempt at posting pictures.



This is my primitive paint booth

This is the parts primed with a Nasons two part epoxy


http://i53.tinypic.com/2e
:drunkie:
This is the first time that I have tried to spray epoxy primer and it went pretty well. I started on the back sides of all the panels and had two minor runs by the time I made it to the front of the panels I felt pretty comfortable and was spraying alot better.
My paint booth worked fine I wet the entire area with a water hose and then put down a large tarp, the weather was very cooperative 85 and no wind so I left the sides opened when I go to spray the topcoat I will put up the sides on the tent and use a box fan.
Mark you are the man reding your tutorial give me the guts to try this and so far I am pleased.
 

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For what it's worth, Deere paint is made by Valspar. Your priming job looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Joe, I talked with Valspar they said their hardner would work well with John Deere paint. I have been tied up at work the past couple of days so I have not been able to work on it any. I was planning on wet sanding with 400 grit paper before the top coat, Mark feel free to chime in if that will be to smooth to get good adhesion with the topcoat.
Again thanks for all of the help
 
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