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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2007 John Deere 3203. The PTO doesn't work. I verified that the seat switch works and put a new PTO switch in the dash, but it still doesn't work. The previous owner said he never even used the PTO. Anyone have any suggestions on what else it might be before I cart it off to the dealer?
Thanks!
 

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From an other web site.

HeavyEquipmentTech : Hi my name is XXX. X will try to help. Using a test light, test for power going into your pto switch since it it new. If you do not have power to your switch, then check your harness and connections from your ignition switch to the pto switch. If power is present then test for power at your clutch with the switch on, If you have power then make sure your clutch is grounded. If so, you have a bad clutch. If no power is present at your clutches, thoroughly inspect your harness and switches. I hope this helps. Thanks for using JA

Customer : How do u check power at the clutch? I have checked power all the way down to a diverter but don't know where to go from there.
HeavyEquipmentTech : I'm sorry, I was thinking of a smaller tractor with an electric clutch. I do not have the manual handy for this particular tractor but there must be a solenoid/valve to engage and disengage your PTO clutch that should be energized with power with the switch on and the operator in the seat (engaging the seat switch)

Customer : Yes there is a valve and I have ohmed it out at 2 ohms is this normal or is this valve bad.
HeavyEquipmentTech : I do not know the spec on that. however, Are you getting power to it while in the seat and PTO and ignition switch on? If so then replace the solenoid

HeavyEquipmentTech : If there is not power then your problem is in the wiring and switches before it

HeavyEquipmentTech : Take a close look at all your grounds too... make sure you dont have any broken/corroded grounds or connections in your harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I recently purchased a 2007 John Deere 3203. The PTO doesn't work. I verified that the seat switch works and put a new PTO switch in the dash, but it still doesn't work. The previous owner said he never even used the PTO. Anyone have any suggestions on what else it might be before I cart it off to the dealer?
Thanks!
I have traced the problem to the PTO Valve. Item #1 in the attached diagram.
JD Part#LUV802970 for $838.00. Small part but BIG price. I have removed what I believe to be the solenoid from the valve, which is shown in the other picture. I shined it up a bit with steal wool, but that didn't make any difference.

Does anyone know if the valve can be rejuvenated, freed up, etc, if pulled from the tractor? I bought the tractor used and supposedly the PTO was never utilized. Any suggestions are welcome!! Thanks!
 

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Nothing to lose to let her soaked in WD40. :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I removed the coil from the tractor and put 12v to it and it sucked a screw right into the hole of the coil....so this part of the solenoid seems to be working correctly.

I then tapped lightly on the shaft to see if it would move in or out, and it wouldn't. I maybe didn't work the shaft hard enough, but wanted to show a look at the shaft before I pressed it too hard.

In the 1st pic I removed the nut, pulled the coil off the shaft and just have the coil hanging loose in front of the shaft it goes on.

The 2nd pic is of the shaft that the coil slides onto. The shaft is threaded on the end and a nut attaches the coil to the shaft. I screwed the nut back on the end of the shaft and tapped lightly on it to see if it would move in, but it didn't budge. There is another nut at the back of the shaft, holding it onto the valve assembly. I loosened the back nut and the shaft just turns with it, but the shaft still does not move in or out of this nut like I think it should. I didn't loosen the back nut too far as I was afraid the hydraulic fluid might be under pressure.

Since the coil is held on with a nut, I don't think that would allow the shaft to be pulled in by the magnet.

Does anyone know if I should try to pull the shaft out with a little more force, or remove the shaft completely from the valve body? Is the shaft supposed to move freely inside of the coil?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tapped outward on the back side of the outer nut, trying to pull the shaft out of the valve without success.

I then held the larger nut, at the back of the shaft with a wrench and tightened the outer nut, at the end of the shaft, down tight, thinking that might break the shaft free, but no luck there either. I put some torque to it, but perhaps not enough. Again, when I turn the back nut.....the whole shaft turns with it.

Looking at this picture of the shaft, you can see where there is a separation in the shaft about a 1/3 of the way in from the threaded end. When I zoomed in on that separation, it looks like there are little splines there. Does anyone know if ONLY the back part of the shaft is to move....from the separation joint back to the valve? Maybe an outer sleeve over the back part of the shaft?

And if only that little bit of movement will activate the valve?

I'm going to try to put more pbs on it and move just that part. Thanks for any suggestions...trying to keep motivated to work through it! Sorry.....totally a novice here!
 

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From that last picture, it looks like the shaft is part of (welded to) that back nut, which makes me think that the shaft is just being used to strengthen and transfer the magnetic field from the solenoid to some other part inside the valve block that is what does the actual moving to actuate the valve.
 

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My guess would be a valve spool shaft with a spring keeping it in the closed position, and the magnetic field from the solenoid is supposed to overcome the spring and cause the spool to slide toward the solenoid to open the valve, and then when the current is removed from the solenoid the spring pushes the spool back and closes the valve again. I'm hoping that since the solenoid itself seems to be magnetizing fine, and since it's never been used that there's just a bunch of gunk in there keeping it from moving easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Copy that....thanks. Guess I will go ahead and remove the shaft from the valve body and see what it reveals.

Thanks again Sean!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I pulled the valve off the tractor and removed the solenoid shaft from the valve. There was a little bit of grime inside the valve, but over all it was really clean. I sprayed some parts cleaner inside the valve and inside the solenoid shaft and then blasted both parts with air to make sure there was no blockages.

There were no movable parts inside the solenoid shaft. In the one picture, you can see where there is a slit cut into the solenoid shaft. There is another just like it on the opposite side of the shaft. Inside each slit are 3 small holes that allows fluid to flow from the shaft into the differential. I thought that maybe the holes were on a sleeve that moved inside the solenoid shaft, such that sleeve would slide to an open or closed position when the PTO switch was activated, but I couldn't move the holes in any direction.

I put the valve together and back on the tractor....I was hoping that maybe I freed something up, but when I engaged the PTO....it still didn't work.
 

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I assume you are getting 12v to the coil when connected to the tractor? If it is in fact getting 12 to the coil when the pto switch is on, then you will have to do some pressure checks to see if you have a vlave problem or PTO clutch problem. A dealer should be able to do a pressure check in about an hour. Cheaper than throwing parts at it.
 

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See my response in your other thread. From those latest pictures it does look like the shaft is supposed to move relative to the nut, but that one close up picture sure made it look like the shaft was welded to the nut, but as I said, pictures can be deceiving. At this point, I would be tempted to pull the shaft and nut back out again and put the nut into the jaws of a bench vice and use a block of wood and a heavy hammer on the end of the shaft to see if I could get it to move.
 

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I would put the solenoid back on the shaft snug the nut holding it on. Apply power and ground to the wires and see if it clicks. Everything happens inside of the shaft. Snow plows use similar setup sometimes they stick. Nothing moves externally. If you look you may be able to see inner shaft move
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Re-read a previous post Idid see an inner sleeve inside the open end of the shaft. I tapped on it with a small screw driver and it move in, closing the visible port holes you can see in my picture of it. I then turn the shaft over and slammed it down on my vise and it brought the sleeve back to that end, again exposing the port holes shown in the picture. I did this several times, with the addition of squirts of PB Blaster, and it eventually freed up. Now when I push in on the sleeve I can feel it push in on a spring and release. I put the solenoid on the other end of the shaft, and when engaged, it did pull the inner sleeve forward. So I assembled it back onto the valve body and the valve onto the tractor. Hip HIp Hooray! My PTO works. Hooked up my brush hog and mowed my field with it last night. Thanks to everyone for your help!!!
 
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