My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 300 series John Deere from the 1970's

The hood is faded and so is the paint.....to bring a bit of luster back

Would a Polishing Compound be ok to use on the Fiberglass Hood? and or the single stage paint?

Would i want something like a liquid polish instead?


Thoughts and ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
I just did my 325 and it is looking a lot better. I used the tried and proven auto detailing process that I used on my BMW. It is safe and fairly effective but will not remove deep cuts. It also is nearly impossible to burn through your paint.

1. Wash with Ajax or similar to remove dirt and wax.
2. Use random orbital polisher with an orange pad and MacGuires 105 cutting compound. Do this twice. Or more if you want to get to deeper cuts. I will say that while this combo is very safe, it is also not aggressive enough to get out deep stuff. You'll have to decide if the look you achieve at this point is good enough, or you want it smoother. If you want it smoother, then you need to wet sand with 300 grit to get the deep stuff out, then 600 to polish a bit, then hit it with the 105 again. You are starting to remove a lot more material when you start sanding, so be careful.
3. Use white pad with MacGuires 205 polishing compound. This will make it look better than new.
4. Sealer
5. Wax

This is the same process that detailers use. If you are very brave, ditch the random orbital sander and get an orbital one. This is where you get to see if you have the right stuff to be a real detailer. Pause for a second too long, push just a little too hard or let the polishing compound set up a minute too long and you will burn a lovely hole into your paint. But it is much faster than using a random orbital polisher. I like the safe route. I was doing my hood last night with the sander at max speed and pushing pretty hard for pretty long. No issues. But I've made three passes and still need a little more cutting to get a little more of the scratches out. If I knew what I was doing, I could have cut all the scratches out with one pass of the non random orbital.

Hope this helps.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
244 Posts
You can try Novus 2 to clean and remove minor scratches. Novus 1 is mostly a polish and 3 is for heavy scratches. I use it on my plexiglass windshield on my motorcycle then tried it on my JD and it worked good for me.
I can't remember the name of it but the JD rep when I sold them at Home Depot told me to use tire black on the plastic and it worked great. Of course there were no scratches in the new hoods.
 

·
Deceased April 2016
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
I have a 300 series John Deere from the 1970's

The hood is faded and so is the paint.....to bring a bit of luster back

Would a Polishing Compound be ok to use on the Fiberglass Hood? and or the single stage paint?

Would i want something like a liquid polish instead?


Thoughts and ideas?
Hello 1979 John Deere314
I have detailed countless John Deere lawn & garden tractor's in the past thirty year's and the best easiest way to get the maximum shine out of older faded paint is by using a machine Buffer. I have a Makita 7" variable speed buffer that has been with me the past Thirty year's without failure and it work's very well as you can regulate the speed while buffing with it. Buffing paint is an art that takes time to learn. Pressure and slow speed is how it work's best. Before starting any Buffing, I would suggest that you mask off the decals on the hood as it is not hard to get onto them while buffing a panel and it will often remove the color from them. 3-M makes the best Tape for Masking off the decals it stick's well and stay's put until you are done with a Job and is Not hatefull to get back off once it is applied, But do not let it stay on long as water or rain on it makes it Miserable to remove. There are ton's of compound's out there to use I have had great luck with 3-M product's but they can be pricey but as the old saying goes you get what you pay for and 3-M gives a wicked shine quickly. That said, you can buy small quantites of their compund that will give you enough to get through the job with having a lot left over. If you do not like the price of 3-M product's I have found a product called Presta that is modest in cost but takes a little more effort to get a Maximum shine out of it. I would Not suggest a heavy duty style compund as the old faded paint will be thin in area's and the last thing you want to do is break through the color coat while buffing on it.


I often look for a compound that say's it will remove scratches and freshen old paint by removing Oxidation as that style of compound is not as aggressive as the heavy duty style compound's that have a Heavier grit feel to them. Meguires sell's a Ton of different compound's to work with, but it has been my experience with their product's to Take up too much time and not deliver the depth of shine that I am looking for they are much weaker in their cutting action when detailing with them, the only benefit from using the Meguires compound product's is that they all have a different scent when working with them, which is not what I care at all about I want result's Not scent when Buffing paint. Remember you are working with older paint so heavy Grit style compound's will tend to cut faster when buffing but they will also go through the old Paint and show the primer or base coat of the item you are buffing. Keep the speed slow, pressure on the buffer has to be a medium kind of pressure and stay clear of the edges when buffing as you can easily break through the old faded paint if you get too close to the edges. Do Not get alarmed when buffing you will notice the green or John Deere Yellow paint on the buffing pad, this is normal as you are removing the oxidation on the old faded paint as well as a few Mill's of the actual color of the Paint. I use a Number Two wool pad to apply the compound with, Then I follow up with a Foam finishing pad and a final Glaze or finishing compound to get the Maximum Luster I want to achieve. Take your time Buffing is not a speed contest it is a slow process to bring back the dead looking paint to the Highest level of shine and Luster. Here is a Link to Presta products. I have been using their Ultra cutting cream lately as 3-M has gotten wicked High in price. It work's really well and most auto Body shop supply stores sell it or you can order it off line. I hope this helps, Hammerdown


http://www.prestaproducts.com/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,398 Posts
Hammerdown says it best! I do this also with my tractors! No issues with plastic hoods for us! I use rubbing compound from Turtlewax on them, then polishing compound, then wax!
Here is before and after on hood of Flakey! About the only thing that doesn't need repaint on it!






 

·
Deceased April 2016
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
Hello
I will share a little story with you, I still chuckle when I think of it. Back when I first Moved to Tennessee work was scarce. I had done several different job's in my life but I always' fell back on Body & paint work when there was not good commercial truck heavy construction work to be found. I answer this add where a Local body shop is looking for a person to wet sand and buff fresh sprayed paint on cars & truck's that had been repaired in their body shop. I go through the interview with the owner and his son and Tell them what I am capible of. I can read Body language Pretty well, and I felt that they did not believe me when I said that I could knock out Three to Four car's or truck's per day. They always detailed the customer's car's inside and out after the body job had been completed. I tell them if they give me a chance I will prove myself. After 30 days they give me another Interview and a raise saying that they could not believe how many cars and trucks I could get done in one day. Before 90 days was up they made me in charge of the detail shop. I took care of all of the supply ordering, made sure job's were getting done and had two otrher employees under me that were Not pleased that I was in charge over them as they were there before i came.







I would work as hard as they did and we got along fine. The Onwer had one Quirk that really used to Tick me off to No End. He would walk out to the shop several times a day checking to make sure we were getting the work out. This really annoyed me as I am a good worker that does not need to be baby sat or told what to do I just get it done. I Gently told the owner that I did not need to be checked on as I gave my all when working there, but he Ignored me. One day he was all dressed up and his wife was going to pick him up to go to an appointment he was decked out to The max with a suite and tie on. I see out of the corner of my eye he is approaching me to stand behind me and make sure I am producing. I act like he isn't there as I am Buffing a hood on a car. I lay down a Huge Glob of compound on the car's hood, Then wind my Makita grinder up to maximum RPM, stand off to the side and lay it into The Huge Glob of compound. It covered him from head to Toe and he was Furious with me. I took a Tongue lashing from him and had to keep a straight face while doing so. The other Two worker's looked on with Fear in their eyes as he walked away mad. I winked at Both worker's and said perhaps' he will not be checking up on us so often any more. That was the last time he came out to check on me and I worked there for two years. Regards, Hammerdown
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,398 Posts
Hammer!! LOL SWEET!!!!!!!!
I just quit my job of almost 20 years over the same type issue with bosses son!!
Made me laugh!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
459 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well being as I'm not that comfortable with DA polishers / cutting pads etc etc.

I think i'll use the hand / microfiber towel and a little elbow grease. Just looking for a little more luster in the paint and fiberglass hood.

I think I'll go with this stuff (let me know if not a good idea ) http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turtle-wax-polishing-compound-0391021p.html

And then use some wax.

Thanks for all the info guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,939 Posts
Well being as I'm not that comfortable with DA polishers / cutting pads etc etc.

I think i'll use the hand / microfiber towel and a little elbow grease. Just looking for a little more luster in the paint and fiberglass hood.
That was my exact feelings about this powder coated hood;



A spent an hour trying to get some results by hand, and gave up.

I got out 600 grit wet or dry, and sanded AND SANDED, WOW, I should have started with a coarser grit.

I used finer sandpaper, then polishing compound, and polish.

I know this is not the plastic hood, but, you or somebody will be cleaning up powder coated paint.

Some info on how to clean up powder coat paint from those "in the know" would be helpful. :dunno:



Although, I did get the hood to look better, it never did get a "shine". :hide:

 

·
Deceased April 2016
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
Well being as I'm not that comfortable with DA polishers / cutting pads etc etc.

I think i'll use the hand / microfiber towel and a little elbow grease. Just looking for a little more luster in the paint and fiberglass hood.

I think I'll go with this stuff (let me know if not a good idea ) http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/turtle-wax-polishing-compound-0391021p.html

And then use some wax.

Thanks for all the info guys.
That was my exact feelings about this powder coated hood;



A spent an hour trying to get some results by hand, and gave up.

I got out 600 grit wet or dry, and sanded AND SANDED, WOW, I should have started with a coarser grit.

I used finer sandpaper, then polishing compound, and polish.

I know this is not the plastic hood, but, you or somebody will be cleaning up powder coated paint.

Some info on how to clean up powder coat paint from those "in the know" would be helpful. :dunno:



Although, I did get the hood to look better, it never did get a "shine". :hide:



Hello Guy's
It is perfectly fine to be leery of machine buffing the paint on a panel. Time is what makes a person good and fast with it knowing what compound's to use to get maximum shine help's as well. But fear not, a Novice can get great results with a machine buffer if you go slow and watch what you are doing as you buff. More pressure means more paint is removed just as Speed when buffing will remove a lot of the original paint, just take your time, watch what you are doing and you will get a much deeper shine and luster than you ever can doing it by hand. Power coat is as Tough as nail's so when Buffing if you keep this in mind pressure will work the best to getting it back up and shinning again. The reason your Gravely hood did not come out shinny is that 600 Grit sand paper is on the rough side compared to what is out there today, and there were scratches left behind from it that the compound did not get out and you have to apply More pressue to get the level of shine up on Powder coat Paint. When reviving a Powder coat finish I Wet sand with 1000 Grit 3-M wet or dry sand paper. I use a squirt bottle with some dish soap in it so it glides over the Power coat surface and leaves minimal; scratches behind. If you want a higher level of shine use some 1500 Grit or 2000 Grit sand paper wet sanding it. Once you are done use a cutting compound to bring up the shine. Don't worry about hurting the finish or breaking through it, Power coat is tough and thick. Once all of the micro scratches are gone from buffing with a Cutting creme compound go to a finish foam pad style compound and change your buffer pad from the sheep skin wool style to a foam style pad. With the foam pad and a final finishing compound you can buff your heart out as it rarely breaks through the Powder coat the compound is very low abrasive so buff until it shines like a new Penny. I have been doing this for Better than 40 Year's so I wouldn't Steer you wrong here. Good luck keep us posted of your result's, Buffing Paint is very rewarding when the shine comes on strong. I hope this helps, Hammerdown
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top