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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just thought I would share progress on this very neglected 2630... It has been quite the learning experience. This is also the first tractor I have split (by myself).
Here it is, after delivery. Wouldn't even start:

Found numerous electrical issues. Mainly skinned wires, missing terminals (for example, starter solenoid wires were wrapped around the lug without a crimped terminal), voltage regulator was unplugged. Finally cleaned it all up, put new lights, batteries, light switch, solenoid, and battery cables in.

Next up, the I, II, R shifter had a ton of slop and even pulled right out of the transmission. I have since learned of the parking kit that was added to these tractors. Problem with mine was, the shifter and kit was added but they reused the old bearing and snap ring. Got the correct kit with shims installed, fixed the slop.

Hydraulics - actually aside from a few leaks, this part wasn't so bad. Tractor and loader still functioned correctly. However, mine has the independent PTO which is driven off the transmission hydraulic pump and the PTO functioned very poorly. Starting with the fluid and filter change, here is the inlet screen (I expected worse to be honest).

Tractor has leaks everywhere, I always figured because of the blow-by. Full engine overhaul is coming this fall. For now, replaced leaky rubber hose fuel lines with the factory hard lines except I noticed the main line off the tank to the transfer pump (also replaced) needs to be routed under the oil cooler - that will have to wait until the full overhaul happens.
Tractor clutch always was poor, however I wanted to try to get by just a hair longer. So started mowing, noticed it wouldn't lug up a hill due to the slippage. Time to bite the bullet and split it, fix it right.
Messy:

Clutch housing:
Looks like an oil bomb went off a long time ago. Oil and dirt is caked on almost an inch thick.
Flywheel with what remains of the pilot bearing:

No balancer shafts! I assume the previous owner removed them for some reason. Not good. Will come back to this later this fall, but to get these last two bushings out requires another tractor split.

Rear main seal (bad one):

Clutch disk - I expected worse, but it doesn't look great either:

Flywheel is currently being refinished, waiting on the flywheel housing gasket, throwout bearing carrier, and arms to be delivered.
Successfully installed new injectors without breaking any. Looks like one of the 4 was replaced at some point maybe?


That is all for now! Will keep updating regularly. In case anyone is curious, I believe the 2630 and the 2640 are nearly identical.

Edit: Looks like I can't figure out photos, so attaching them instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update: put it all together only to find I installed the clutch fork incorrectly. Had to split it again and correct the issue. Tractor is back together, clutch works great and shifts good. Still have leaky fuel return line from where it rubbed against the hood (consequences of no balancer shafts). Also I cross threaded an injector, so have to correct that as well and the double spool loader valve is leaking.


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Discussion Starter #6
Been a while since any update, thought I would stop in.

2630 still runs fantastic. I still haven't done the brakes, I attempted to remove the wheels but I couldn't get them to move at all on the rack. I need some bigger tools before I try again... I'll be ready to do the brakes then.

All the water is most likely close to out of the hydraulics. I've completely drained/filled it probably 7 times now.

It actually runs pretty darn good now, it will even start cold really much better than I expected. I have decided to abandon doing a full overhaul including adding balancer shafts and bushings, it's just too much work and I don't have free time. I've recently taken a new job which occupies just about all the time I have. Good part is, I'll probably just buy another tractor when this one goes.

I successfully changed out the inner valve of the fuel shut off valve. The old one leaked around the threaded nut, dried seal I'm sure. I ordered a new valve ($25 or so) and was able to simple swap out the inner part, only lost a small bit of fuel. Very good news...

Also changed the centering spring on 1 of the 2 valves for the loader. That fixed it "hunting" upwards when idling. I still hear chatter from the front pump, I'm sure it could use a rebuild but I suspect there is still a draw because the other centering spring needs replacing. Pic attached showing the old, replaced spring (left) next to the new one. Note the uncompressed height difference!

Hope everyone is doing well. I'll keep updating as I can!


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Thanks, that was quite a project splitting the tractor by yourself. I've heard that beer will attract workers if the right quantity is available!! Of course nothing I would do...but in dire circumstances you do what you must! Great progress on the tractor and I'm sure having it run well and shift well makes thing way better. I would think that brakes could be a safety issue but if you on flat land they may not be. On the property in PA when we had the Allis Chalmers WD we always made sure the brakes were working, pretty steep hills that we worked.
 

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Very interesting/good info when going through your thread/pictures. I have a 2640, my preferred all around workhorse, that has a few similar symptoms as your rebuild but it is not to the point of tearing down yet that you are addressing here. Good insight when the day comes! Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Very interesting/good info when going through your thread/pictures. I have a 2640, my preferred all around workhorse, that has a few similar symptoms as your rebuild but it is not to the point of tearing down yet that you are addressing here. Good insight when the day comes! Thanks.
Glad it could help. Honestly seems like these machines are very well engineered and built. The lack of maintenance absolutely destroys them though.

I'm trying to put together everything to do an inframe overhaul later this year. I plan to attempt the brakes again since it will have to be drained at that time.

I used mine to do a few hours of mowing, ran quite well and sounds good. Still has oil coming from pretty much every gasket on the machine though a d the blow by seems more than I would like.

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Discussion Starter #10
Back at the 2630. Used it almost all weekend to clip my pastures. Was running fine when the steering valve started gushing hydraulic fluid. It made a huge mess...

I pulled the valve off the tractor. Tractor will have to sit in the field until I can repack the steering valve. It looks to be a fairly straightforward process, any tips are appreciated.

If I had to guess, I'd say the top oil seal blew. Fluid was gushing (and I mean gushing) from right under the steering wheel.

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Discussion Starter #14
How hard was steering wheel removal? I am thinking of replacing the one on my 2030, all the spokes are cracked.
Rented a puller from Advanced Auto. Had soaked it in Kroil the night before. Puller worked perfectly.

Bundy Bears Shed does a 3 part video series on YouTube. He has a ton of good tips, I highly recommend. He does this rebuild without the special JD tools. One thing he mentions about the steering wheel, most pullers like the one I rented thread in the steering wheel. If the wheel is seized on really bad, it can pull the threads out. He recommended the "flying saucer " style puller.

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Discussion Starter #15
Steering wheel removal should be relatively easy with the aid of a steering wheel puller & hammer.
Nice to see you're still around!

Oil return from the steering - is the return sent through a steel tube internal to the clutch housing? That small sump under where the column mounts, mine was gunked up bad. Oil didn't even drain out there plug until I shoved a wire in. I'm hoping there isn't an internal blockage...

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It is normal for that sump under the steering valve to be gunked up. I have been told that some hydraulic oils have some graphite in it that seems to settle in that area. Might not be true, but I have been told that. The flow of oil in there is small, so sediment collects there. That cavity fills up to a certain point and then spills over into the front of the transmission.
 

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mike1208
Thanks. In my old age it's nice to still be around!
PS return oil leaves bottom of steering valve & travels back to trans case via a galley in clutch housing.
 

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Steering wheel removal should be relatively easy with the aid of a steering wheel puller & hammer.
I did not know it was tapped for a puller, not much room in there, and I had not removed the cap to look. Thanks. If it does not pull, it stays on. I worry hammering will lead to problems I don't need or currently have. Just broken spokes, which must be pretty common.

Rented a puller from Advanced Auto. Had soaked it in Kroil the night before. Puller worked perfectly.

Bundy Bears Shed does a 3 part video series on YouTube. He has a ton of good tips, I highly recommend. He does this rebuild without the special JD tools. One thing he mentions about the steering wheel, most pullers like the one I rented thread in the steering wheel. If the wheel is seized on really bad, it can pull the threads out. He recommended the "flying saucer " style puller.

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My tractor is 45 years old, so I suspect the steering will be tight. The nut had light surface rust, but came off easy. I did not have a puller to try yesterday.


No idea what a flying saucer puller is. I not much of a you tube watcher, my internet connect is SLOW and the constant stopping to load, bugs me too much to try and watch.


My reason to pull is replacement of the wheel, all three spokes are cracked at the hub. No steering problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did not know it was tapped for a puller, not much room in there, and I had not removed the cap to look. Thanks. If it does not pull, it stays on. I worry hammering will lead to problems I don't need or currently have. Just broken spokes, which must be pretty common.









My tractor is 45 years old, so I suspect the steering will be tight. The nut had light surface rust, but came off easy. I did not have a puller to try yesterday.





No idea what a flying saucer puller is. I not much of a you tube watcher, my internet connect is SLOW and the constant stopping to load, bugs me too much to try and watch.





My reason to pull is replacement of the wheel, all three spokes are cracked at the hub. No steering problems.
The flying saucer puller is a style where it mounts on the shaft below the wheel and pulls up, similar to a 3-jaw puller. I'd try the rentals first, mine was really rough too but it came right up.

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Discussion Starter #20
What a frustrating job... Seal kit came in, install went ok until putting it back together. I forgot mine uses a metal ring on a piston surface. I believe they revised it to an o ring instead of the metal ring. All this to say, in the assembly process I forgot this fact until after I had hit the daylights out of it with a hammer. Nevertheless, I got it together using razor blades to squeeze the metal ring. Then, the steering wheel shattered. And now, because I hit the yoke so hard, the pin won't go back through it on the tractor.

I'm freezing the pin overnight to see if it will shrink enough to install. If not, it's going to a machine shop so they can turn it down 1/32 or so.

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