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john deere 214 restoration

33115 Views 37 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  Dan33Klein
hey guys, i started a restoration of a john deere 214 tractor. it wasnt in bad shape to begin with, but i want it perfect. when you guys restor them, do you take it all the way down to bare frame and rear end? i heard it is pretty complicated to remove the speed variator. ive ran into a few bumps already with my rear end and such. i also need to get the drive belt off the motor to remove the engine. how do i do this? when you guys paint do you use rattle cans or buy paint and use a gun? i was leaning more to buying the paint and spraying it out of a gun, then clear coat. any tips on making the restoration turn out good is welcome!!!
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Welcome to the site. I'm in the process of giving my 210 a going over as well. The knowledge base here is amazing, and you're sure to get the help you need!
These are questions that I would like to know how it is done too. I am new... well I have never restored a tractor yet, so the answers and tips will help me do it right once I do.
Please talk about your restorations. From organizing parts as they are taken apart, (I like to take pictures to refer back to when I take something apart.) to tips on cleaning prep and painting. Etc, Etc, Etc.
Thank you. :D
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i havent got any pics yet, other than the video of my screwed up rear end, ive watched a few restorations on youtube where they left the motor and steering coloum and all that in. i think i might go that route. no need to remove the motor and such i guess, just clean and sand everything underneath and hit it all with paint.
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How "perfect" your project comes out is a function of the time you have to devote to it. If you want to see some first class paint and detail work read through some of KATTs threads on restoring his 175 "Toy" and snowblower. His rattle can work looks as good as most body shop stuff. If you want to see some hacker rattle can work read through my thread on FrankenDeere. Frank was a quick and dirty project to build one 110 out of two and learn some of the basics of paintwork. If you want to see a basic rehab read through my 214 thread; that was just cleaning and some detailing. There's another 110 thread here where its getting a full body shop resto with every part disassembled, stripped and painted. All it takes is time and tools and a camera because :wwp:
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Welcome! I'm working on a 214 myself. Mine is an ameteur "fix-up", though; It's not really a restoration. ;)
im gunna be cleaning out the frame and such tonight, decided to just leave the engine on the tractor.
Thanks Herd ! Mine was just to see what a guy in his garage with ordinary tools could do. That being said, there have been some almost unbelievable restorations last year. Way better than JD ever did at the factory.
IMHO do what makes you comfortable ( I didn't need Toy I have an X520, so I wasn't out - of - service) but WARNING it's infectious I just started by only cleaning the engine then.............
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This is the quintessential 214 restoration. Very well documented and museum quality. Adam
This is the quintessential 214 restoration. Very well documented and museum quality. Adam
That is an excellent job but don't miss............
You want museum quality done here @ MTF beyond any I have seen !!!!!!!
My 175 was nothing more than a refresh, If I understand you right you say want way more.
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hey guys i got alot done tonight have her about down to the frame.
motors out and everything. trying to upload some pics
how do i remove the deck raise and lower lever?
i see the set screw and i removed it and the lever wouldnt budge.
im thinking bought painting it black anyways
Do you guys clear coat after paint? I'm Gunna use the valspar implement paint
If its a display piece I might think about clear coat but not for a worker. It just wouldn't look right to me. Plus clear coat likes to chip and peel too easily.
If you prep and prime properly, and use the appropriate paint, you should end up with a durable finish. Clear coat provides little in the way of actual protection other than minor scratches, and is a PITA if you need to make a repair. If you're worried about a particular wear area, you can use chip guard in those places.
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Thanks for the input.

Urgent. If you guys checked out my rear end proble
Thread you will know what I'm talking about.

I took off the damaged hub and axle tube. Do I have to remove te whole axle shaft out of te rear end to replace the bearing? There's no way it's sliding over the splines.
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guys i havent posted any pics of the rebuild. its all done now. let me know what you all think. heres all the pics

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Dan outstanding!! What is the brown primer you used and did you use any filler on the hood and if so what kind, I have some deep scratches to fill on Rusty.
Dan outstanding!! What is the brown primer you used and did you use any filler on the hood and if so what kind, I have some deep scratches to fill on Rusty.

OH.. I wish I could paint like Dan..:banghead3 All I do is make 'runs' and orange peel.. :banghead3:banghead3

Dan- Do you use a compressor & spray gun with etching primer? It lays that primer in there thick which fills a lot of imperfections Katt.. Scratch putty can then be applied to fill the large cracks.. The nice thing about the putty is that it holds form better than 'bondo' and gives you a nicer, flatter surface. Sand it all down smooth and prime again then you are ready for the finish coat..

**I have been using spray paint cans and am having a heck of a time with my 425 project.. Grrrrr..

Hey Dan- Are you planning any trips east?? (J/K!)
Great Job on that 214!!:thThumbsU
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