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Discussion Starter #61
new carb throttle shaft and plate installed. with rubber bushion on top and new sleeve at mouth. solid now - no air flow leaks. the amount of slop in the plate in the carb mouth was quite noticeable. that would have been letting in a lot of air I'm guessing too.
 

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Mack, Check through manual. Some carbs have a fiber type filter or seal around throttle shaft. This should be oiled as the oil prevents matter from getting in...and lubes shaft. If you don't have it, don't worry about it, MANY variations on carbs! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Mack, Check through manual. Some carbs have a fiber type filter or seal around throttle shaft. This should be oiled as the oil prevents matter from getting in...and lubes shaft. If you don't have it, don't worry about it, MANY variations on carbs! Bob
I put a new brass bushing in the top entrance the shaft goes into to tighten it up. the new shaft has a rubber o-ring on it to air seal it. oiled it up good too.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
installed new engine mount. old one split. repaired the other one with permatex RTV sealant. see how well that works out. riveted back in place. 2 rear ones looked ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
OK progress...have the bearing plate installed with correct spacing between the bearing and crank end. .007" now. Installed oil seals on both sides with correct depth set. (1/8" on PTO and .730" on bearing plate).
 

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Sounds like you're making good progress. Maybe running tomorrow? Don't forget to retorque head after running and cool down. Keep going! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Just finished installing the piston, rod and rings into block. Man was getting the wrist pin in hard to get centered inside between either side of the piston...4-5 attempts. Not centered and it would not align to the crank journal....

oil hole is oriented towards the camshaft.
 

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You should have some clearance between the rod and the inside of the piston, but the closer to center, the better off you are.

I hope there's others following this thread! Looking at your pic, I DON'T LIKE the rod bolts! To me, they're a Gr 2 and I'm thinking Gr 8 or at least Gr 5! Any other's have thoughts? Bob
 

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I kinda have an answer to my question! What size threads are on rod bolts, 5/16" or 3/8"?

Now that's it's assembled, you may not know/remember, so what size socket fits heads, 1/2" or 9/16"?
 

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Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Question on the valve re-assembly. there is a cone shaped piece and a brass ring shaped piece that goes on top/bottom of the spring. which one goes on top? I didn't take notes when I took it apart and the service manual doesn't specify this clearly.

[EDIT] when I tried putting them together, it became obvious they would only go one way. cone has to be on the bottom. I'm wondering on the intake valve side, on the bottom there was only the cone piece. on the exhaust side the cone was surrounded by the same brass piece that was on the top...so...wondering if in past engine work this piece got lost perhaps...??

after consulting service manual diagram for the valve assembly, the exhaust rotator piece at the bottom is definitely a larger encased piece versus the cone shaped end for the intake so I think I'm good there now.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I kinda have an answer to my question! What size threads are on rod bolts, 5/16" or 3/8"?

Now that's it's assembled, you may not know/remember, so what size socket fits heads, 1/2" or 9/16"?
the rod bolts were 20mm. I torqued them to 28 ft pounds, backed them off then back to 25 ft pounds.
 

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From my Kohler repair manual, rorator goes on exhaust valve, so you're good! I also noticed a note that says close coils towards top. I can't see why that would make a difference, but that's what the book says! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #75
question on the valve settings. you hold the bottom nut with a 1/2" screwdriver and move the top one 7/16" right or left to adjust clearance. once it is correct, you have to move both in opposite direction to tighten them in that position...correct?
 

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Can't help there Mack. I would think the one nut is an adjuster and the other is a locknut. Once set, hold adjuster in position (a wrench suggested) and tighten locknut. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #77
just going by what I saw a few of the other guys doing videos on these old K series tractors on youtube. I think it'll be fine. got the carb on, stator/flywheel (torqued to 60ft lbs), fuel pump, points (set to 20 thousandsth) and camshaft cover. almost ready for the tin now...head won't go on until I get it hoisted back onto the tractor as I need a 3 point hitch point in the head bolt holes. see attached for progress pics...
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
started the tin late yesterday and most of today. stuck on the plate that covers the engine fins from the air box to the blower housing. cannot get the bolt holes to line up...

anyone with a John Deere 210 out there take a pic of that area for me...I must be doing it wrong...should not have to fight with it like this...there is a bolt hole in the top of the head that this tin plate has a notch/hole that should line up but it doesn't
 
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