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Using oil for parts storage: If storing parts for a short time, let's say 6 months to a year, oil is OK. True story here. I joined the Air Force in '68 and had lots...LOTS... of engine, transmission, rear end, ... and parts, period... in my cellar, which tends to get damp during the summer. I poured some STP on some finished journals and when I ran out of that, I used plain engine oil. Four years later when I got discharged and back home, I checked my stash of parts. All parts coated with STP were as good as they were 4 years before. All parts coated with oil were rusted, useless, and ended up scrapped! OK, but that's long term storage. If only for a few months any oil will work. For reassembly, lube/pre-lube with the same lube the item is going to operate in. Engine bearings, whether roller or babbit, run in oil, so pre-lube with oil. Any pre-lubes that you buy are basically an oil based product with EP additives, so pre-lubing with an assembly lube is the same as pre-lubing with oil...except for the added protection of the EP additives which helps during the first 1000 revolutions.

To answer your question directly about oil or grease when installing crank bearings on your K241, don't use grease and pour oil liberally on them!

And yet, ANOTHER long winded story! I got my first JD garden tractor in '82, a 314. If it sat for a week or so, it had a tinney/scraping sound while cranking to start. After running for a short time or even up to 3 or 4 days, no "funny noises" while cranking. I'm thinking maybe dry cylinder walls and tried using synthetic engine oil rather than dyno oil. Magic! No more "funny noise" when cranking! I've been using synthetic ever since and no "noises". I'm not sure what's happening though. It could be, that on a molecular level, the oil/additives are embedded into the pores of the cylinder, or the minute amount of oil getting passed the oil ring is captured in the ring grove of the compression ring and then flowing out...after shut down... to lube the walls. Whatever the reason it works! The reason I even mention this is that synthetic oil may (??) be a better solution for long term storage.

Enough BSin'. Prelube your parts, put her together and fire it up! Grass is growin', time to get mowin' !! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #42
we are on the tail end of another nor'easter up in the atlantic provinces...so no mowing for the next couple weeks. will use straight oil to lube everything up bob. thx for that info.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
got the camshaft + pin, tappets installed this morning. installed the bearings in the block and on the bearing plate. had to buy a new plate as the old had deteriorated at the top and the metal was quite fatigued. the old gaskets were shot too. there was 1 black and 2 white thins ones. this is what I replaced it with. when I put the new bearing plate on with these gaskets, the end play is < .003"...so too small. I assume I add MORE of the shims to create more end play...right?
 

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It's been 10 years since I've been inside a Kohler...and I'm not sure what I had for lunch yesterday!

I'm thinking crankshaft end play is determined by the internal bearing clearance of the main bearings and is determined at manufacturing. I believe the gaskets/shims determine where in the block the crankshaft sits...with respect to the piston rod. Kohler spec is ,.003/.020, so yes you're on the tight side. Install piston & rings, lube journal, install rod cap and snug bolts...no need to torque. Spin crank a few times to "center" rod. Check rod to crank side clearance and determine which direction crank needs to go to "center" rod. Add/subtract shims on bearing plate as necessary. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #45
after checking things this morning, the end play is .004" did assembly in the sun yesterday and the metal was warmed up. I put the block on the engine stand last evening and it cooled overnight. so there it is barely within spec. crank turns 100% freely with no binding at all. seems good to me...but if you guys think that this is too tight I'll add some more shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Mack, Are you measuring crankshaft movement or space on either side of piston rod on crank journal? Bob
I grabbed the crankshaft and moved it as far as it would move away from the bearing plate. then measured the space in between where the crankshaft meets the bearing in the bearing plate.
 

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OK That's the design internal bearing clearance and not much you can do to change it. I'm assuming bearing plate clamps outer race of bearing? If not, you may want to reduce shim to clamp bearing....003/.004" sounds like a lot of internal clearance. Bob
 

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Stivemorgan, I'm not trying to get you out of this thread...at all! It would be best if you started a new thread explaining what tractor, what symptoms, etc. A tractor that doesn't work can mean a $500 engine rebuild or reattaching a wire that fell off! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #51
funny, that's what my first issue was with the 210...an electrical issue with the voltage regulator shorting the points out.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
this is from the 200 series service manual and what I used as a guide in doing the measurement of the crankshaft end play. see below image. from the manual:

"Crankshaft end play is controlled with gaskets between cylinder block and bearing plate. Initial use of one thick 1/32-inch (0.794 mm) and two thin 0.010-inch (0.254 mm) gaskets should bring end play within limits. However, this must be checked after bearing plate is installed."



2456791
 

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OK, Not what/where I was thinking! You doing great, keep up!

As I've stated in previous posts, don't hesitate to ask questions, and now I'll add, or challenge responses! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I'll definitely watch for the alignment of the rod (when it and the piston) arrives. :) for what it's worth, the gaskets I bought on fleabay are total rubbish. the .010" shims were literal pieces of paper which had been ripped/torn and could not be used. would not recommend them. I bought kohler OEM head and pan gaskets separately.
 

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I just checked jdparts.com and gasket/shim .010" is M43140 and $4.80 each. Not knowing if any of you .010" shims can be used, you'd need 3. Another option would be to replace the the existing 2 .010" and add another 1/32" gasket...but that's NLA from JD! Lemme look for a Kohler part number for gaskets. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I just checked jdparts.com and gasket/shim .010" is M43140 and $4.80 each. Not knowing if any of you .010" shims can be used, you'd need 3. Another option would be to replace the the existing 2 .010" and add another 1/32" gasket...but that's NLA from JD! Lemme look for a Kohler part number for gaskets. Bob
No worries bob, I found some online. kohler OEM ones. the fatter one is much thicker (black) and they should hold up better I'm hoping. cost of shipping is killing me though.
 

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Check out a couple of different Vendors, shipping may vary. Another possibility is local lawn mower/small engine repair shops. You may pay a dollar or 3 more, but can walk in pick it up, and no shipping! Bob
 

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I've always buy the rebuild gasket sets when I rebuild engines, They include several extra thin (white) bearing plate gaskets. I think the endplay is .003" min and .020" max. I try to get around .008" on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
ok, parts are here. I measured the bore top to bottom of the machined block and it VERY close to the .010" over. which is good..

Piston is stamped .25 on top (metric - from taiwon)...that is .010" over I'm told from supplier. I measured the piston width in the middle of the piston (side to side) where the wrist pin goes through and it measures: 82.65mm or 3.254" so this is .007" off the bore....this is acceptable?? the rings should compensate for this correct?
 

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Mack, Sounds good so far. A mm = just under .040 so .25mm = .010". .007" might (??) be a little on the tight side, but...as you say...rings will fill in! Plus, you're mesure cold and aluminum expands more than iron. You'll be fine. Bob
 
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