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If you choke it and it will still run, it's a fuel problem. Have you cleaned the fuel tank out and cleaned the tank filter??? Check the vent in the fuel cap also.
I can't believe how much trouble you are having after getting the engine rebuilt..
 

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Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
it starts struggling under load when mowing. I have not honestly tried choking it when this plays out but throttling down and disengaging the mower to keep it from stalling out. I vented the cap. It was a kelch unit (unvented) that I added holes in the surface clear cap. When I bought it early last year, I took the tank off and flushed it and gave the screen filter inside a thorough cleaning. Time to do the fuel lines and put a new filter on. If that is not gonna do it, then move to the fuel pump. I put a diaphragm kit in it last year as well. I'm gonna have a whole new unit soon...
 

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Discussion Starter #203
Just cleaned the carb and put a new kit in. needle/seat, gaskets, releveled the float (was off a bit) and blew out all orifices with carb spray. attaching pic of old seat as there was a wee bit of brown discoloration at the bottom of it. don't know whether that was playing into things. onto the gas tank cleaning and fuel lines and filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
question on the carb... from the john deere 210 parts diagram and from kohlers site for the carter #26 (which mine is), there is supposed to be a spring underneath the float between it and the bowl. anyone have this in theirs? I wonder if my not having this in is causing an issue? I would think that this would shut the flow of fuel into the carb more readily than just with the pressure of the fuel raising it in the gas going in. anyone have any suggestions here?? ie: should I try source this?
 

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from the john deere 210 parts diagram and from kohlers site for the carter #26 (which mine is), there is supposed to be a spring underneath the float between it and the bowl.


I've never seen one in all the Carter's I've tore apart
 

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Never have seen part #18 in a carb and I have about 10 of them under the bench
 

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Discussion Starter #208
I wonder if they were introduced at a specific year onwards or something...my issue is I believe it's starving for fuel. adding this would only stop it sooner than wanted I think.
 

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Never seen one in any of the ones I’ve had apart,since it’s really old why not just get a new one.it probably has wear in the bores and sucking air?
Under 50$ on eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #210
Never seen one in any of the ones I’ve had apart,since it’s really old why not just get a new one.it probably has wear in the bores and sucking air?
Under 50$ on eBay
IF the carb is in fact leaking air somewhere, why wouldn't it race when I hit it with carb spray when running...it doesn't tried doing this around the carb intake port, around the throttle shaft and needles.
 

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Good point, my Walbro on a 216 was worn out so bad it had no adjustment,the new one I got was AWSOME.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
I think the muffler may be my issue. I patched 2 small holes in the outer skin with muffler cement. I could hear some loose material inside it by shaking it. Wondering if the baffles inside are pooched and blocking exhaust from escaping and my blocking those 2 holes were where exhaust was going before. I'll get a new muffler for it this time before firing it back up once the head gasket arrives. (still waiting for that...)
 

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Discussion Starter #213
I started/attempted to clean out the old muffler to see what was going on inside. lot of black soot/oil residue thus far. filled it with oven cleaner and baked it on the bbq for an hour last night. couldn't get it hot enough I think to do the trick. gonna cut a hole near the round orifice inside that contains the baffles and see if I can get a blow torch inside to burn it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #214 (Edited)
OK, new Kohler OEM head gasket arrived. Installed after chasing the head bolt holes out good, cleaning all bolts and installed and torqued. first hand tight, then to 24ft lbs, then to 30 following kohler manual. Still waiting for the new muffler...

Is it OK to run it without the muffler on...ie: do I run the risk of foobaring the exhaust valve ?
 

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Wait for the muffler. There IS the possibility of burning the exhaust valve, and you really don't wanna do that. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #216
off topic a bit...I made a new points wire to better fit the hole in the rubber grommet on the points cover. the connector end I put on was a round hole one with a yellow crimp style connector. I seem to be having a problem keeping the points set correctly. Wondering if the yellow material is binding on the cover when I put it on and shifting it out from where I set the points?
 

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Mack, If you have any doubts that your connector is interfering...and it sounds like you do... Cut terminal off, strip about an inch of insulation of, and tin wire. Maker SURE you use a rosin core solder or rosin flux! Once tinned, wire can be wrapped around screw on points. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #218
Mack, If you have any doubts that your connector is interfering...and it sounds like you do... Cut terminal off, strip about an inch of insulation of, and tin wire. Maker SURE you use a rosin core solder or rosin flux! Once tinned, wire can be wrapped around screw on points. Bob
so eliminate the end connector altogether....got ya. will definitely switch to that. the silver solder is not any good...heat from the point melts it?
 

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Actually the other way around. Regular solder melts ~around~ 360-370ºF and silver solder is 1200ºF depending on the amount of silver.
And if your points are generating enough heat to melt ANYTHING, something is wrong!

Another option is to use a short piece of solid copper wire. Attach this to the screw on the points, run out of points "box", and add a male/female quick disconnect to the stranded wire.

Just a few things to think about, Bob
 

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You could remove the little plastic piece off the connector and position it so that it doesn't come in contact with points cover when it is in place.
 
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