[Travas]

I just recently got my stx38 back to my shop. I've had it running, but I haven't driven it yet. My dads neighbors gave it to me and it was sitting in the weeds for about five years. I hooked it up to a fresh battery that was exactly like the one off of it, it always got stuck cranking at the same spot. I am not sure if its a compression relief valve thats stuck or if it had a tight spot. I got it to my shop and hooked up my wheel horse battery and nothing. Tried jumping the starter relay/ solenoid and just sparking. I unhooked the battery and the took off the starter and it works. I am not sure what happened between August and now. It was in a garage so no rain or snow on it. What I did in dads garage was took off the solenoid and put it back on, took off and reinstalled the ignition switch because it fell it the box below it, and I tried rerouting the wires from the back to front and was unsuccessful. Even after all that the engine still ran. I worked on it again and don't remember what I did to it. All the wiring is connected from what I can tell. I'll try checking for connections with a multi meter when I find it. also am looking for a colored wiring diagram for the stx38 as well. sorry if the post was long.

 

[rwmeyer]

Travas, I can't help, but for others, you should specify WHICH STX38 you have! there were 2, a yellow deck made from '88-'93, and a black deck made from '94-'97. Bob

 

[Travas]

Travas, I can't help, but for others, you should specify WHICH STX38 you have! there were 2, a yellow deck made from '88-'93, and a black deck made from '94-'97. Bob

I was wondering what people meant by black deck yellow deck. Thanks.

 

[Travas]

I was out there for about 2 hrs working on it and still nothing. it looked like there was power to the starter but it still didn't spin. maybe I'll try a jump pack and see if that helps. Also went through and took apart and cleaned as much as I could with the wires. Still nothing, not even clicking. I found out why it gets stuck turning over. it has really good compression, maybe too good. I can barely turn it over on the compression stroke. Might be the hydraulic valves aren't operating properly.

 

[MARK (LI)]

Too much oil in it?..It seems like the carb float needle valve goes bad and allows gas to flood the crank case

 

[Travas]

Too much oil in it?

was just thinking that. I can't tell where the mark on the stick is even though the oil is good. Ill check again

 

[poncho62]

Brad, an admin on here has a YouTube on what I believe may be your issue......

 

[Brad]

There are a lot of posts on here about jumping the solenoid to start the engine or get it to crank. Very easy process. BUT, I would definitely drain the engine oil and replace. Likely just under 2 quarts (free download from Kohler or I can email you a shop manual as well) is what it calls for. The fact that you are getting nothing when turning the key surmises:

1. Bad key switch
2. Bad safety switch in the circuit
3. Bad battery connection. This includes where the cable attaches to the frame (ground) and where the red cable connects to the solenoid.

First and easiest check for jumping the solenoid:
take a wire (fairly good size, 12 ga approx) and jump from the + side of the solenoid (where the cable from the battery is connected) to the small tab where the (likely) purple wire is connected. Be careful, have it in neutral and blades off cuz there are no safeties involved when doing this.

Second test: Take a regular jumper cable and touch both big posts on solenoid (make sure you use the same jumper, i.e., red one or black one to do this). Once again, it's going to jump, spark, turn engine, so be prepared. Please report back after doing these tests.

As far as nothing happening in it's current state, I'd lean towards a safety being disconnected or the switch being out of adjustment (seat, neutral, brake, PTO, etc.).

 

[Travas]

There are a lot of posts on here about jumping the solenoid to start the engine or get it to crank. Very easy process. BUT, I would definitely drain the engine oil and replace. Likely just under 2 quarts (free download from Kohler or I can email you a shop manual as well) is what it calls for. The fact that you are getting nothing when turning the key surmises:

1. Bad key switch
2. Bad safety switch in the circuit
3. Bad battery connection. This includes where the cable attaches to the frame (ground) and where the red cable connects to the solenoid.

First and easiest check for jumping the solenoid:
take a wire (fairly good size, 12 ga approx) and jump from the + side of the solenoid (where the cable from the battery is connected) to the small tab where the (likely) purple wire is connected. Be careful, have it in neutral and blades off cuz there are no safeties involved when doing this.

Second test: Take a regular jumper cable and touch both big posts on solenoid (make sure you use the same jumper, i.e., red one or black one to do this). Once again, it's going to jump, spark, turn engine, so be prepared. Please report back after doing these tests.

As far as nothing happening in it's current state, I'd lean towards a safety being disconnected or the switch being out of adjustment (seat, neutral, brake, PTO, etc.).

I just redid all the wiring to the relay last night and jumped it and its turning over. definitely gas in the oil in it. Engine should be empty now as let it drain over night. when I had it turning over all it took was for it to get past where it would get stuck and it would turn over faster. I didn't get spark even with the kill switch disconnected. I'll work on it some more today and see what I can do. I don't think the key switch was bad because it started off the key before. thanks

 

[Travas]

Thanks to everyone I got it up and running again from the key. Have not driven it yet and there is a lot I need to fix. I still need to clean the carb, figure out the valves when starting, and fix the wires I fried. but its a start to an (hopefully) easy $150-400
when it is done. Either I'll sell it or use as a intended