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Discussion Starter #1
well its time to start getting the leaking rear-end of my 455 to stop leaking and get it prepared for when my rear PTO setup arrives. Here is a few pics of where I am so far!
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Got her in the shop with a drip tray to see if i could locate the leak.
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Pulled the seat pan and raised the fuel tank to easily access the rear-end. When running i found a steady stream of hydraulic fluid coming from the right side of the rear-end.
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The yellow circled area is where the stream originates from but have yet to find the exact source. Need to remove right rear tire to see if i can pinpoint the leak.
 

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On mine it was the seal on the shaft that engages the differential lock. Replaced all of them anyway! You will be glad to have it all resealed.


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On mine it was the seal on the shaft that engages the differential lock. Replaced all of them anyway! You will be glad to have it all resealed.


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That's on the other side of the tractor from his leak.

Thats the 2 "o" rings right?
Yep, it's the direction shaft. Pull the linkage off, (one bolt) take off the snap ring, and washer, then fish out the two o-rings. I have seen some folks putting three back in. Of course, I saw that AFTER I had already done mine on the 445.... (same trans) Can be done without pulling the trans out of the tractor.
 

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The differential shaft has a small, typical seal. It is known to pop out of the recess where it fits in the trans case. That is on the left side.
On the right side, there are two O-rings behind the nut that secures the swash plate actuator arm to the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah i looked up the parts. Its 2 "o" rings they are cheap but shipping times and such suck. Anyone know the size of the rings? I have access to a almost unlimited supply of various size rings. I am a master mechanic at a large high speed production factory. I work on automation, robotics and hydraulics. So if its a common metric or standard size ring I can grab it easily
 

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No local JD Dealer near you? That's where I got mine. (oddly enough, they had them on the shelf....) Could pull one out, take it to work, and match it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well got out of work this morning and after a bunch of cussing I got the snap ring off the shaft on the rear end. And then there was more cussing getting the "o" ring out of the bore. But at least one of them is out now so I can measure it up and see what it is. Should be able to find them at work pretty easily looks like a common size. Ill post later tonight what I find after I get my calipers on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got some calipers on the removed "o" ring in question. It is sold by deere as PN# CH17653. Here is the common Size I pulled from my parts at work. Ill put it in the tractor in the next few hours and confirm it seals properly.
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Discussion Starter #11
Well I didn't have the right pick to take out the most internal "o" ring. I seen somewhere on here some people put 3 rings in that bore so I figured I would try that. Well it didn't work. Leaks just as much as when I started. Guess I'm sending the old lady to the JD dealer as she is going that way today. Not sure why they didn't seal. But hopefully the stock ones will work.
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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To bad they didn't work, they might be metric.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thats what I was thinking. I looked through metric o rings as well closest thing I found was 3 mm which was too small and 4mm which was too big. Unless they make a proprietary 3.5mm ring for them... not sure
 

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John Deere 316 Onan
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3mm is only .007'' smaller then 1/8'', that's just about a human hair difference.

I guess it's too tight in there to get a caliper on the shaft to get a proper O ring ID.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The 1/8" ring should measure .125 if it is in fact 3.5 mm it would be .138 which sounds about right. Im guessing the 1/8" ring stretched a bit felt a bit tight going on the shaft which would have made that .013 difference even more. The local dealer has 2 of them in stock and a hydro oil filter so the old lady is gonna grab them for me when she is out that way today.
 

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O-rings HAVE to be part of the trade. A 1/4" pipe is NOT a 1/4" and a 1/8" o-ring is NOT 1/8" !!! If you search online for an o-ring chart, you'll find that most common o-rings are made to AS568. Further investigation of the sizes, you'll see 3 digit numbers. The 0xx, except for a few are 0.070 cross section (and most people call these 1/16" o-rings) The 1xx are 0.103 cross section (called 3/32"), and the 2xx are 0.139 cross section (called 1/8"). ANYTHING related to piping, plumbing, hydraulics, etc is very confusing unless you work with it on a daily basis.

BTW, your 213 o-ring should be .139" cross section! Bob
 

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Measured the OD on a spare swash plate shaft and it is 1.103". This is behind where the snap ring fits where the two O-rings reside.
 

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28mm is really close for the shaft OD.
 

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From an engineering/design point of view, you're trying to seal a "rotating shaft". This requires an o-ring to be stretched over the shaft. The amount of stretch is typically 1% -5%, so your 1.103 shaft needs an o-ring with an ID of 1.092 (1% stretch) to 1.048 (5% stretch). A #215 (1.046") is a little snug and a #216 (1.109") is a little tooo loose. A #215 should work BUT! An o-ring used to seal a rotating shaft is typically held in place by the width of the groove. Assuming I'm looking at the correct parts diagram in the jdparts site, your o-rings slip into a counterbore and not a groove. A clamp plate would work, which I don't see, or it's held by the OD of the counterbore. Looking at the specs for a #215, I'd say your counterbore should be around 1.319/1.309". Measure the counterbore and see if it's close. If not, go to "Plan B"...which is go to your dealer and get the correct JD part! Bob
 
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