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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've found that the fuel shutoff solenoid doesn't always pull-in when I turn the key and, therefore, it doesn't start.

I've attached a few pictures of the fuel shutoff solenoid. This is before I cleaned it up but there really wasn't much to clean. Do I lubricate anything before I reinstall it?

From what I've been reading, it sounds like the problem is likely wiring/electrical connections that power the fuel shutoff solenoid.

Any more suggestions for me to get this working properly? I'm not sure how to test for electrical issues. Maybe I could just replace a wiring harness if you think that might be the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What are the solenoid terminals? Is that the set of wires on the solenoid body? I tried to disconnect them yesterday but I was afraid that I was going to break them as I tried pulling them from the solenoid body.
 

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There are 3 wires
one is common
one is pull in
one is hold
I would guess there is a wiring or control board issue
There is a way around it and you don't have to replace anything
Will it hold if you pull in manually with key on
 

· Enginerd - DieselDork
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The pull-in circuit can provide a large current for about 1 second. The hold circuit then provides a low current during operation to hold the solenoid in. To add to Dave's comment, you need to be sitting on the seat while you pull the solenoid in. If you're not made of rubber, you can jumper the seat switch temporarily during testing. If the solenoid holds, but won't pull in on its own, you'll need to do some troubleshooting.

You need to make sure that all of the connections from the battery, through all of the devices, to the solenoid are tight, clean, and low-resistance. You'll need a voltmeter to check the voltages.

I used a lithium grease spray to lubricate the "slug" in the solenoid. Make sure the dust boot is on tight, and doesn't have any cracks. The downside of grease is that it will retain any dirt it comes in contact with.
 

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You really need to get a service manual and go thru the diagnostics steps. Could be wiring, control module, or solenoid itself. Had the solenoid go bad on my 455. You can download the manual on this site if I'm not mistaken.
 

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I just went out and measured mine and I'm getting 10v across the red and black wire. I stuck the probes in the back of the connector where the wires go to the solenoid. My battery is 12.5, so I think I might not have had the beat probe connection to get such low voltage. If yours is getting around this voltage, then the electrical circuits are working properly.

Let us know your findings.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've also noticed that the rod/slug doesn't always pop out after it pulls in. That wouldn't have anything to do with the electrical connections, right? The springs pull it back out...I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There are 3 wires
one is common
one is pull in
one is hold
I would guess there is a wiring or control board issue
There is a way around it and you don't have to replace anything
Will it hold if you pull in manually with key on

When I manually push the plunger in, with the key on, it DOESN'T hold. It still won't start when I manually hold it in either. What is the way around it that you mentioned?
 

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I'm guessing the way around it is to replace it with a mechanical cable or wire tie it and then remove the wire tie to stop etc.

What do you mean by "not start"? The engines turns over (via the starter motor) but doesn't fire and run OR that the starter won't turn the engine.

If you hold the plunger in, the lift pump(electric fuel supply pump) runs, and the engine spins, a diesel should fire up. If it doesn't, I would suspect that your control module is not sending voltage to the plunger AND its not sending voltage to your glow plugs too. So my guess is that it doesn't start when you hold it in because your glowplugs aren't hot.

Safety switch? Control module? Just my Friday afternoon guess
 

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To add to Dave's comment, you need to be sitting on the seat while you pull the solenoid in. If you're not made of rubber, you can jumper the seat switch temporarily during testing.
Actually - if you just set the parking brake, you don't need to be in the seat.

Check out this post:

The only way to test it is to use a volt meter... you can check the voltage on the electrical terminals... or check the resistance on the solenoid itself.
If you visually check the control module per my other post (link above) and see a problem - you can try to fix that first and see if the problem goes away.

Lastly, there are fuses you can check as well
 
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