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JD 445/FD620D Plastic Cam Failure/Replacement

26668 Views 15 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Jcbaker06
I finished replacing the plastic cam gear in my 445. I recorded some youtube video of the replacement. Also below is a spreadsheet of the parts, and some identifying info that came from folks on this list. Hopefully this will make it easier for anyone else that has the plastic gear fail.

Overview Video

Parts Spreadsheet

FD620D Model Reference (sticker below front accessory shaft, although many are missing)
Engines marked FD620D-AS01, BS01 have a plastic cam gear
Engines marked FD620D-CS01, DS01 have a steel cam gear

JD 445 Model Year Serial Numbers for Reference 1998 started steel gear
1993: 010001-020000
1994: 020001-030000
1995: 030001-040000
1996: 040001-050000
1997: 050001-060000
1998: 060001-070000
1999: 070001-080000
2000: 080001-090000
2001: 090001-

Steel cams starting with...
FD620D-CS00 - Beginning serial 153727 - Model F911
FD620D-DS02 - Beginning serial 149283 - Model 425
FD620D-CS01 - Beginning serial 150198 - Model 445
FD620D-ES11 - Beginning serial 152490 - Model 6x4 Gator

Thanks for all the help from this forum! It was not a bad job at all especially knowing I had support here if I needed it.

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Good deal TT mine had already been replaced when I bought the tractor but the rest of the engine needed rebuilding which I did. I have another 620 sitting under the work bench with the cam busted that I picked up as a spare cheap. When the fund's are available it will also get a rebuild. BILL
Very nice video! thanks for sharing. :fing02:
Very nice video! thanks for sharing. :fing02:

Should this be a Sticky Thread?? Nicely done Teemteets:thThumbsU
Thanks for taking time to document your project. Sticky or not, I'll remember it. I replaced my cam at about 800 hours while replacing a leaking water pump. Wish I had your video going into it.
Mike, Nice job, thanks for sharing. :thanku:
:thanku: , Great documentation to have here and nice job with the video. Good luck with your 445.
Nice Video teamteets!! Thankyou for the documentation, it will help others with this problem:fing32:
Sorry to bring this thread back, but did you replace the heads on your Kawasaki with metal ones? Are they the original heads?
I did not replace the heads. The original (metal) ones were in perfect condition. I did replace the plastic valve covers with metal. I believe some came that way and some came with plastic.

1998 JD445
1997 JD445 For Sale
I know this is a fairly old thread. I recently bought a 1995 445. I am the 2nd owner but purchased it from a dealer and they had no idea whether the cam had been replaced or not. It has just under 1100 hours. Should I go ahead and replace the cam this winter before the summer work begins as a preventative measure?
From a parts cost perspective, I probably would not do it until is fails. You may bend the rods when it goes, but otherwise the parts prices are going to be the same whether you do it now or later.
I dislike the anxiety of not knowing when something is going to let me down. The first thing I would do is take off the water pump and have a look to see if it is still the plastic gear. If not, put her back together and carry on. If it is, I would schedule a time when it is convenient for you, not the gear.
Teamteets- thank goodness for people like you who take the time to document your experience, your video and posts along with a few other posts on here gave me the confidence to tackle this repair myself. I am one of the dummies who was completely unaware of this well known issue before buying my used 1997 445 almost 10 years ago and frankly I might have found out the hard way if it weren't for a failed crankcase gasket a month ago after i just started snowblowing (47" snow thrower attachment makes my 445 a year round machine here in CT) I stumbled upon this thread trying to understand how big of a Job it would be to just change the crankcase gasket without pulling the engine and sure enough when I opened her up...plastic! I am at 1069 hrs. So I'm certain this plastic wouldn't have lasted much longer. I had just had the head gaskets replaced a year ago by the pros so I didnt wanna touch them if I could avoid it. I replaced the cam gear, water pump, tappets, springs and obviously all the gaskets, o rings and oil seal easily with all the guidance (& parts lists) on here all while the engine was in place. Runs better than ever.
I thought I'd share in case it helps others ...i don't have one of those handy threaded attachments for my compressor that would allow me to pressurize the cylinders so I could replace valve springs so I used the rope trick. I carefully fed in about 9 or ten feet of clean thin rope (like clothesline) in through the sparkplug opening and then turned crankshaft until the rope was pressed up tight against the valves so I could compress the old springs to remove and press on the new ones. And then backed off the shaft and pulled out the rope VOILA! Oh and one other tip for those who might be making this repair with the engine in place...use Loctite hi tack gasket stick (looks like a big chapstick) to hold your gaskets in place especially that big crankcase gasket in place vertically as you slide the cover back on. Thanks for helping me thru this...first time i made such a repair.
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Hopefully in this post I have succeeded in sharing a few pics related to my last post : Using rope in cylinders to change valve springs and a pic of Loctite Hi Tack (to be completely transparent I work for Loctite so take that into consideration but even if I didn't work for them I would use this product, but you all can decide for yourself, just wanted to share my experience)


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How do i view the you tube video it states its private?
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