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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a ‘96 425 with a JD 40 loader. I was using the loader to move some compost around today, when the forward pedal dropped to the floor and the reverse pedal was sticking up much farther than normal. A quick look down and the right rear tire was sitting farther forward that usual. I stopped and took a look, and noticed all 4 of the bolts that go from the loader frame to the tractor frame and axles were stripped and loose. This allowed the whole transaxle to shift forward when the load lifted up on the frame. I haven’t had time to do any digging on it yet, just looking for some insight before I get dirty next weekend. Has anyone heard of this happening? I’ve been searching all night and have found no reference of it. Any ideas on how big of a job this is going to be? What are the chances of rethreading the holes? Or am I going to have to replace the axle housings? Terrible timing as my wife is due with our first child any day. Any tips or ideas are much appreciated.
 

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I have a ‘96 425 with a JD 40 loader. I was using the loader to move some compost around today, when the forward pedal dropped to the floor and the reverse pedal was sticking up much farther than normal. A quick look down and the right rear tire was sitting farther forward that usual. I stopped and took a look, and noticed all 4 of the bolts that go from the loader frame to the tractor frame and axles were stripped and loose. This allowed the whole transaxle to shift forward when the load lifted up on the frame. I haven’t had time to do any digging on it yet, just looking for some insight before I get dirty next weekend. Has anyone heard of this happening? I’ve been searching all night and have found no reference of it. Any ideas on how big of a job this is going to be? What are the chances of rethreading the holes? Or am I going to have to replace the axle housings? Terrible timing as my wife is due with our first child any day. Any tips or ideas are much appreciated.
In 2000 after having my new 445 and 40 Loader delivered, about 1/2 thru the first pile i felt a sharp clunk changing directions and found my frame bolts were loose. Dealer took it and brought it back the next day..said they put on loctite and retorqued them...

If yours are fully stripped you may be able to put in a timesert or keensert type threaded repair.
 

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I think I would try retapping to next size up and using lock tight to secure the new bolts. Might have to buy a bottoming tap if those are blind holes in the mounting flange.

Not recommended, but in a worst case scenario, instead of buying a new case, could you drill the holes all the way through without hitting, or getting close to any internal areas or parts, then use longer bolts with nuts to secure the mount. ??

2499690
 

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The threads go all the way through, but there is an uneven boss on the back side. Threads are 12x1.75.


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Could you get someone to throw it on a mill and cut the uneven side flat and square to the other side? I'd be the knuckle head with the thing propped up and a flat file trying to get it flat. I think I like the idea of a bolt going all the way through better than retapping or inserts. But, I know inserts work.
 

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It requires the room but drilling the holes out and putting locks and nut on the other side has worked in the past on other things. Just might work here also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the advice, you guys are great. In the quick look I took at it, it didn’t look like the holes went all the way through, so that’s good to know. What about a U-bolt going around the axle and through the holes? I would think that would be a very strong option if there is one that would fit.
 

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Or if it is more square, go to auto supply store and get the square u-bolts, like those used to bolts rear/front axles to the old leaf springs.
 

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I would use a thread insert first, and oversized hole second. The web on the underside is strategically placed to reinforce the boss. If you remove it you could break the bosses off and then you will be in even more trouble.

A M12x1.75 (course thread) Helicoil kit is $40 on line. A properly installed helical thread insert will be stronger than the original threaded aluminum.


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Another solution, there is a pair of axle tubes on eBay for $100. It’s more money, but could be quicker and easier.


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That web is structurally necessary - do not mill/grind it off. You will regret that.

I would not do a u-bolt. It might work, but I suspect it will fail/cause issues in the long term.

If I were doing it, I'd probably go for the HeliCoil route. That will need to be drilled and tapped larger. You may need a bottoming tap depending on how close that web is to the current hole.
 

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Not recommended, but in a worst case scenario, instead of buying a new case, could you drill the holes all the way through without hitting, or getting close to any internal areas or parts, then use longer bolts with nuts to secure the mount. ??
All the way through might have enough movement leverage to crack the case surrounding the bolt.
 

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Did not notice if any other posts mentioned that when the 40 Loader frame mounts on a 4X5 tractor longer bolts are required to mount to the axle housings/tubes. If the loader mounting frame was installed with the original (shorter) bolts this may contribute to the cause of the current problem.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks again for all the info. I have a helicoil set on the way so I can dive in to it this weekend. I do believe the longer bolts were used for the loader, since they go in pretty far. My next concern is how long have they been loose, and have they clunked around in there long enough to widen the holes too far for easy repair. I guess we’ll see when I get it torn apart. I am also going to tear in to the parking brake while I have it apart. It doesn’t work, but all linkages function outside the transaxle.
 

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Good luck and keep us updated. Pics are always welcome.


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Do you have the cross brace installed that ties the left and right loader mounting frame together under the tractor just in front of and below the axis of the transaxle PTO shaft?
 

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Another thought...
Instead of using bolts you might consider using high strength threaded studs so that you have full depth engagement.
Something like this:
Of course the next thing to happen will be breaking off a section of the casting...
 
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