JD 410 backhoe question

well good luck getting an answer around here... the best luck I had with my situation is to try and find an exploded parts diagram to see how its all put together.

I went to John Deeres website and did a part search, and managed to find the exploded view, which shows you the order these things are put together... thats about all the help I can give. Sorry

Eagle 1 said:

I am replacing the rear axle on my john deere 410 backhoe (1978 I think).
The question I have is how to properly torque the bolt that screws into the axle shaft on the planetary pinion carrier. The book says to torqe the bolt 180-240 foot lbs to get the preload set to 8-12 lbs, which I understand, however do you have to then remove the bolt to install the lockplate?
If I am understanding the book, the lockplate is installed after the bolt is torqued which doesn't make sense to me.
If anybody can help, thanks.

Click to expand...

I don't understand the confusion. That triangle shaped lock plate goes on last after the bolt is in. It is a force fit. It it wasn't, it would fall out.

These Deere final drives are done one of two ways:

#1 When NO shims are behind the planet carrier to limit pressure against the axle bearings you only torque the center bolt to 55 foot pounds -not 240 foot pounds. To check to make sure the axle bearings are too loose or tight you check rolling torque. When done you drive on the lock plate.

#2 When there ARE shims behind the planet carrier to limit pressure against the axle bearings you can safely torque the center bolt to 240 foot pounds instead of 55 foot pounds. But you much tighten slowly and keep checking rolling torque. If there are not enough shims, the bearings will be ruined when you fully tighten that bolt. If the shim pack is correct the rolling torque will be correct. If too loose you must remove shims. If too tight you have to add shims. When done you drive on the lock plate.



I worked at several Deere dealerships and this same setup is use on farm tractors, industrial wheel machines and log skidders. The #1 repair method leaves the center bolt more prone to falling out if the lock plate isn't perfect. But it makes axle bearing preload much easier to adjust since there is no stack of shims to mess with. If done correctly, using the shim method and 240 foot pounds is a better repair but if you tighten that bolt without the correct shims - you will ruin the bearings.

If you are installing a lot of new parts you MUST determine the proper shim stack height with the #2 method. And easy way is to install a few extras. Then put together and it will be too loose. But you then can measure the end play and subtract. If you read .010" end-play, you then remove .008" to .010" in shims to get endh-play to zero. Then assemble and recheck rolling torque. What you really want is zero end-play to maybe .002" "crush" on the bearings.

itsjustjb said:

Yes you remove the bolt, install the lock plate and reinstall the bolt with red locktite on it. What the book is telling you is to set the torque on this bolt for setting the rolling drag torque on the axle bearings. Unfortunatly the where not real clear on this. Hope this helps you.:thThumbsU

Click to expand...

No that bolt does not determine rolling drag. The shim pack behind it does. If there is no shim pack it can only be tightened to 55 pound feet, not 240 pound feet.