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I can move (carry) it around by myself. It's heavy AND awkward. Easier with 2 people - especially loading in a vehicle without scratching anything. I can be done with one person though
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I can move (carry) it around by myself. It's heavy AND awkward. Easier with 2 people - especially loading in a vehicle without scratching anything. I can be done with one person though
thats good to hear.. I may be on my own but the lift gate is not too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
This 54 blade idea has me thinking about what I can and cannot use simultaneously (building toward argument over kitchen table for two tractors...). Am I right to think that I cannot have the mower deck mounted while using the front blade for dirt or gravel pushing as the hydraulics will put the deck down when I drop the blade? I have this problem with the back blade mounted on the 3 pt. Makes me not want the mower to share the same machine!
 

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Frank, A 318 is an H2 system...meaning 2 separate hydraulic system, kinda. Your inner lever controls your front right (as siting on the tractor) outlets and your outer lever controls the front left outlets and the deck plus the 3-pt. A lockout valve on the cylinder for raising & lowering deck & 3-pt (located on the back left side of the tractor looking at it from the rear) will prevent movement of the deck & 3-pt when the outer lever is moved, like if you've got a blade on the front and want to angle it.

As far as the deck & the back blade lowering at the same time, they're moved by the same cylinder. You need to remove the deck when using the back blade or the blade when using the deck.

As far as kitchen table or 2 tractors, don't let wifey read this post and just say it can't be done and you just gotta have 2 tractors! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Frank, A 318 is an H2 system...meaning 2 separate hydraulic system, kinda. Your inner lever controls your front right (as siting on the tractor) outlets and your outer lever controls the front left outlets and the deck plus the 3-pt. A lockout valve on the cylinder for raising & lowering deck & 3-pt (located on the back left side of the tractor looking at it from the rear) will prevent movement of the deck & 3-pt when the outer lever is moved, like if you've got a blade on the front and want to angle it.

As far as the deck & the back blade lowering at the same time, they're moved by the same cylinder. You need to remove the deck when using the back blade or the blade when using the deck.

As far as kitchen table or 2 tractors, don't let wifey read this post and just say it can't be done and you just gotta have 2 tractors! Bob
Got it. I just put the back blade back on to do a little gravel grading and I left the mower on and could see the trouble it was causing the deck if nothing else. Lock out valve seems a necessity, but maybe two machines: one for blades/blowers and one for mowing and bagging
 

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Got it. I just put the back blade back on to do a little gravel grading and I left the mower on and could see the trouble it was causing the deck if nothing else. Lock out valve seems a necessity, but maybe two machines: one for blades/blowers and one for mowing and bagging
It doesn't stop there! A real good argument can be made that you don't want to be changing between the snow blower and blade in the middle of a blizzard, so each attachment needs it's own tractor. Further, it is always good to have redundancy in winter.

Pretty soon you'll have reasons for a whole host of tractors. Safety first!
 

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Also things don't come off or swap so easily in the cold of Winter unless you have a heated garage or shop with enough room for vehicles and the tractor and the attachments.
 

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On the 318 you can mount the front blade with the deck on. So at least if you want to do some quick dirt work it’s possible. I have used the blade as ballast when lifting with the 3 point.

The 4x5 tractors interfere with the front deck support and the quick hitch. Yet another reason for more than one tractor.


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Discussion Starter #31
It doesn't stop there! A real good argument can be made that you don't want to be changing between the snow blower and blade in the middle of a blizzard, so each attachment needs it's own tractor. Further, it is always good to have redundancy in winter.

Pretty soon you'll have reasons for a whole host of tractors. Safety first!
Well I got the sidelong look and the words "you guys are all the same" :tango_face_grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So I just sent the seller an offer of $250 for the blade still on the market. Reasoning: I'll have to make a 10 hour round trip and I'll likely have to replace hoses and possibly hard to see in pics bottom edge.

I second guessed myself, should've pitched $200. Guessing those rehabs to be around $250 with shipping etc.
 

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I paid $500 for my 322 blade 20 yrs ago but it was like brand new. Only way to check cylinders is to hook it up. I found that I had to change the hook-ups so that the outside lever that works the deck can be put in float. To do that I had to get a longer hose made for the angle valve. After I did that I found the complete set with a longer hose on Ebay for around $80
 

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Discussion Starter #34
He countered that he'd let it go for $300. Deal or no deal? Can't test it out -he doesn't have a machine for it and I don't have the ability to bring my tractor.
 

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I'd say $400-$500 is the "normal" price for that blade. As far as hoses, IF you need them, many auto parts stores like NAPA will make them. You may find the bottom edge has never been turned over, but you'll probably have to replace the dozen bolts & nuts holding it on. Another common wear area on these blades is the pivot bolt. You may need to replace the bolt of possibly some weld repairs on elongated holes. You won't know any of these potential problems until you try the blade out.

One more point. One thing I would definitely do is remove the cylinders, remove the disconnects on the cylinder hoses, and manually push/pull the cylinder rod to empty the cylinder of all oil. The PO could have used a completely different hydraulic oil, so why chance contaminating your system.

Bottom line: For $300, I'd get it...before someone else does! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #36
One more point. One thing I would definitely do is remove the cylinders, remove the disconnects on the cylinder hoses, and manually push/pull the cylinder rod to empty the cylinder of all oil. The PO could have used a completely different hydraulic oil, so why chance contaminating your system.

Bottom line: For $300, I'd get it...before someone else does! Bob
Good Point
 

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Frank, To me $550 is pretty much high end, but looking at the pics on the Craig's List link, he's done some work on it...new bolts on cylinder, new bottom edge (or just turned over), fresh paint on blade, and even includes dust covers for disconnects! If your wallet can stand it, go for it (or at least talk to the guy & counter bid)! Bob
 

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$550 for that blade is reasonable. Like RW said, new bolts, cleaned up, maybe even newer up/down hoses. Blades take a beating, but at least the guy took some care with it. Keep in mind cylinders go for $300 and up. Go take a look, test the blade for leaks, and do what your feelings tell you to do. If it were me I'd have it in my truck by now.
 
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