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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been looking for a blade to add to the 318 I bought last November. I'd like to use it for pushing some soil and definitely driveway gravel. Unlikely to use it for snow since I'll have the blower on first.

My questions are about a unit I see for sale about 5 hours from me. It's listed at 450$, which is lower than others I see at a similar distance or are otherwise attached to another tractor sale. As much as I would like a back up or to not have to change blower to mower, that's not in the cards right now.

I cannot easily go see it and then walk away -what kind of things should I be looking for? Leaks & rust, sure, but anything else? How easy do these attach to the 318? Are there parts that might be missing? Are they too heavy to lift into a minivan without seats?

The seller says he hasn't used it in 7 years, but it worked then.... He also says its been inside but moved it out 3 weeks ago. He sent me some pics since his ad didn't have any. Those are below.

For comparison we have a 550$ blade that has clearly been spray painted not too far from me. Link: https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/grd/d/minneapolis-john-deere-model-54-blade/6910079388.html

I appreciate your help and knowledge!
 

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I'm sure it's as easy and if not easier than hooking up the blower. The hydraulic connections should be the same. I only have a 43 blade for my 110 and it's a lot easier to hook up than the 37A blower I have.

If you look at it check the cylinders rods for rust/pitting. Check hoses, but I think that sitting for 7 years, even inside, you might need new hoses.
Probably need 2 people to lift and situate in the mini-van without breaking your back or damaging the van.
The one that's closer to you looks like it can use new hoses also. For $100 bucks and what you save in gas & travel time might be worth it.
By the way those seem to be the average prices here on the east coast also.
 

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See if you can get pics of the cutting edge. That's the "wear" part on the blade. I can put my blade on my 318 in about 5 minutes. You might surprise yourself how much you like it for snow. I have a walk behind Ariens blower that I didn't use once last winter! 4" or less and you can plow at top speed. It's helpful to use some sort of system to mark which hoses go where. I just used paint marks or you can use the nice color coded caps from the newer tractors. Then you don't have to think about it after the first time you hook it up.

I agree with lt230s, $450 is no special deal. No way would I drive 5 hours for that. If you aren't in a rush, some patients will save you $50-100 and a long ride. $550 should have a new cutting edge, nice paint and really nice hoses.
 

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Offer the closer guy $450 over the phone and settle on $500. It may have been painted but so what? Big advantage is it looks like you can try it out, and then see how easy it is to get off the tractor (reverse the process for putting it on). There really isn't too much to go wrong.
 

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Mounting them isn't too much of a problem. Get the dogs in the lower hooks on the frame, pull the spring loaded pins to out position, hook up hoses and then start the tractor and use the "up/down" lever to get mount to swing back to where the spring pins engage. Once the pins engage you are ready to tear into things. If you haven't picked up a hydraulic shut off valve for the deck lift cylinder you will want one. Shutting off the flow to the deck ram speeds up the operation of the blade significantly and makes it stay at the angle selected. The one in the pics looks to be in decent shape. I noticed the skid shoes are turned upside down which means the front edge is really being worked. I would check that to make sure they haven't worn down the blade. The front edge is removeable and can be turned over to use the 2nd side.
 

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I just bought a 54 quick hitch blade for my x series last Friday. It looks like new yet, but here is the list of things in my head to check over before purchase.
-make sure its straight and not bent
-flip it over and make sure the cutting edge was never left to wear down too far and wear into the blade itself
-check pivot pins and hinges for excess wear or slop
- check the condition of the hoses for brittleness or weather checking
- look at the hydraulic cylinders for leaks
-if you will be plowing any snow I'd guess you won't want a rusty or pitted up blade, youd want it smooth and slippery so the snow can roll and not stick

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm sure it's as easy and if not easier than hooking up the blower. The hydraulic connections should be the same. I only have a 43 blade for my 110 and it's a lot easier to hook up than the 37A blower I have.

If you look at it check the cylinders rods for rust/pitting. Check hoses, but I think that sitting for 7 years, even inside, you might need new hoses.
Probably need 2 people to lift and situate in the mini-van without breaking your back or damaging the van.
The one that's closer to you looks like it can use new hoses also. For $100 bucks and what you save in gas & travel time might be worth it.
By the way those seem to be the average prices here on the east coast also.
Thanks for your help. I gather I should go look at the painted one that's closer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mounting them isn't too much of a problem. Get the dogs in the lower hooks on the frame, pull the spring loaded pins to out position, hook up hoses and then start the tractor and use the "up/down" lever to get mount to swing back to where the spring pins engage. Once the pins engage you are ready to tear into things. If you haven't picked up a hydraulic shut off valve for the deck lift cylinder you will want one. Shutting off the flow to the deck ram speeds up the operation of the blade significantly and makes it stay at the angle selected. The one in the pics looks to be in decent shape. I noticed the skid shoes are turned upside down which means the front edge is really being worked. I would check that to make sure they haven't worn down the blade. The front edge is removeable and can be turned over to use the 2nd side.
Good info PA. Where do you mount the shut-off valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just bought a 54 quick hitch blade for my x series last Friday. It looks like new yet, but here is the list of things in my head to check over before purchase.
-make sure its straight and not bent
-flip it over and make sure the cutting edge was never left to wear down too far and wear into the blade itself
-check pivot pins and hinges for excess wear or slop
- check the condition of the hoses for brittleness or weather checking
- look at the hydraulic cylinders for leaks
-if you will be plowing any snow I'd guess you won't want a rusty or pitted up blade, youd want it smooth and slippery so the snow can roll and not stick

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Good points. I cans see that the closer unit for $550 has been painted over -is it rust/pits or whatever its covering? Hard to tell until I see it. Hoses for sure need to be replaced. How expensive are those? I can also see it has a bit of a curve to the top edge.
 

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FWIW, the outer sheath of the hoses can be weather cracked for years without leaks. It’s not optimum, but not the end of the world either.


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Ok, so that may have been a dumb question -probably slips right in where the hose taps into the cylinder. In other words, just putting a valve between whats there already. :duh:
Yep, nothing fancy going on there. All I can say is when your hydraulics aren't working properly, check the valve out to see if it is open or closed first! I have had it shut or open and I forgot about it and thought my hydraulics were acting up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yep, nothing fancy going on there. All I can say is when your hydraulics aren't working properly, check the valve out to see if it is open or closed first! I have had it shut or open and I forgot about it and thought my hydraulics were acting up.
Makes great sense. I'll look into one of these. Does it work with snow blower lifting or only really on the blade since it demands more?
 

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It shuts off the rear lift circuit which is on the same circuit that operates the angle on the plow. Without the valve the angle has a delay until the rear lift cylinder cycles to the end of its travel. If you have a straight driveway it might not matter. I like to change the angle of my plow while moving and I find it invaluable. I don’t remember exactly but I think the valve has an unusual combo of threads to install without adapters in a tight spot. I did a little research and couldn’t find a cheap alternative. The guys at auxhydraulics.com have done a nice job figuring it out and I think they are a good source.


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Discussion Starter #18
It shuts off the rear lift circuit which is on the same circuit that operates the angle on the plow. Without the valve the angle has a delay until the rear lift cylinder cycles to the end of its travel. If you have a straight driveway it might not matter. I like to change the angle of my plow while moving and I find it invaluable. I don’t remember exactly but I think the valve has an unusual combo of threads to install without adapters in a tight spot. I did a little research and couldn’t find a cheap alternative. The guys at auxhydraulics.com have done a nice job figuring it out and I think they are a good source.
I've experienced this delay while lifting the 3pt back blade. Seems to delay a second or two before raising or lowering. I'll look them up. Maybe a source for other needed items...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did a little research and couldn’t find a cheap alternative. The guys at auxhydraulics.com have done a nice job figuring it out and I think they are a good source.
Did you pick up the "positive" lock out or the "original"? Something about keeping fluid in the cylinder makes it positive 90$ more expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
By the way, does anyone know the weight of these 54 blades? The local unit is gone, so I may have to travel. Wondering how many people it would take to get the unit into the back of my Toyota Previa minivan (no seats behind driver).
 
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