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Make Smoke, Boil Water!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry if this has been asked before, but the nearest Deere dealer to me is now something more than an hour away. This weekend I was going to get the stuff so I'd be ready to change the hydro oil and filter in my 345 once the weather warms up.

Problem is, I'm having a serious fit of stupid here and can't find the manual. :banghead3

Can someone tell me what I can use for a substitute in the hydro - and how much I'm going to need? :thanku:
 

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If you have the GX345 you can get the info right on Deeres web site. You would need to go to www.deere.com., click on Residential, on top of page click on service and support, then manuals for non-current riding mowers, then click on your model. It looked like 5 qts. of J20D low-visc Hy-guard, or equivalent specs if you're looking at other oils. Has pictures and instructions on the two locations on your tranny to fill and how much....
 

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The J20D is just Type F auto trans fluid. I've substituted Mobil 1 ATF (it's not type F) in my X585 and it seems to drive better when cold. (Somehow synthetic makes me feel better.) I think the thing with the type F is for the brake pads (type F has a friction modifier).
 

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The J20D is just Type F auto trans fluid. I've substituted Mobil 1 ATF (it's not type F) in my X585 and it seems to drive better when cold. (Somehow synthetic makes me feel better.) I think the thing with the type F is for the brake pads (type F has a friction modifier).
WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

J20D is NOT a type "F" automatic transmission fluid!!

JD manual even warn not to use this type of fluid.
 

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WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

J20D is NOT a type "F" automatic transmission fluid!!

JD manual even warn not to use this type of fluid.
Lo and behold...Type 'f" and Mobil 1 ATF don't meet or list any j20d specs whatsoever. either. I think the confusion comes from Tuff-Torq. They spec ATF in their K92 (?) transaxle, but Deere specs Low- visc Hy-guard J20D.
 

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Sorry if this has been asked before, but the nearest Deere dealer to me is now something more than an hour away. This weekend I was going to get the stuff so I'd be ready to change the hydro oil and filter in my 345 once the weather warms up.
Steamguy,
Be sure to replace both hydraulic filters. You need one each of AM806848 and AM120916. As far as I know, these can only be purchased from your Deere dealer so you might a well buy 5 quarts of Hy-Gard Low Viscosity while you are there.
 

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If you don't want to drive the hour...order the parts by phone or internet. I do that for my Volvo Penta oil & filters. Like Deereman says, replace both filters as well.
 

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AND to change the hydraulic (in line) filter it's a simple and quick 8 bolt rear fender deck removal to get right at it. It can be a bear from underneath if you are dimensionally challenged (F-A-T) as I am and don't have an adequate lifting system.

So....

>Unhook the seat switch connector and feed the wire down through the deck hole.

>Remove 4 (2 each side) running board/fender deck bolts.

>Remove the 4 upper deck bolts just outside the seat area (if you are having a "wimpy spell" you can unbolt the seat but it's not necessary to separate it from the fender deck.)

>Carefully lift off the fender deck and there's the hydraulic system filter right on top of a nice clear space plus all the crap that's collected on top of the hydro.

>Also the fillers are easier to access AND be sure to clean off the top of the transmission while it's open and check the duplex transport belt and cooling fan for errors.

>Reassembly is easier with 2 people but I did mine alone and I'm really nothing special in the strength department. Place it back on from the rear of the machine, it goes back into position very easily. Set deck in place and then reach under and feed the seat switch wire back up the hole. Tighten all bolts and reconnect the seat switch wire.

I'm heading all the way down to my local JD dealer tomorrow (3 mi.) for the same supplies along with extra engine oil, filters, plugs, etc. I'm sorry to admit it but the tranny oil change is about 10 hrs. overtime... what with all the massive and frequent 2" and 3" snow falls we've had lately! :D
 

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This might sound like a dumb question, but often do you change the hydro oil? My deeler told me that they do not need to be serviced. I quess I will look at my manual again to see the errors of my ways.
 

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While I have a tractor with a different transmission, the JD book calls for a transmission fluid change at 50 hours and then every 250.
 

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Went on JD web site. It indicate checking the oil until it reaches 250 hours and then change it. Need to crack open the manual and go through it again.
 

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My 1996 345 manual says every 100 hours and the maintenance decal under the lid of the glovebox also says 100hrs. Deere could have changed the interval with later models.
 

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Make Smoke, Boil Water!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:thanku: everyone!

You all have been a big help. That's a great idea to get the the stuff off the internet. I'd rather not drive the hour plus to go to the "local" Deere dealer. These guys were the last reasonably-priced outfit, but got bought out.

Now I feel totally stupid: those pretty, clean machines in the online manuals don't look anything like mine.
:eek:mg: I'm going to have to trek out to the barn to look for those check and fill spots, soon as I get home. But thanks again for your help, you've opened my eyes!!



Side story: When I traded for this tractor, I drove a couple hundred miles to buy it. Price was $800 cheaper, so you see why I don't want to deal with the "local" dealers. They deal primarily with "city dwellers" so they seem to feel that they can get away with taking you to the cleaners.
 

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Guru on the Mountain
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AND to change the hydraulic (in line) filter it's a simple and quick 8 bolt rear fender deck removal to get right at it. It can be a bear from underneath if you are dimensionally challenged (F-A-T) as I am and don't have an adequate lifting system.

So....

>Unhook the seat switch connector and feed the wire down through the deck hole.

>Remove 4 (2 each side) running board/fender deck bolts.

>Remove the 4 upper deck bolts just outside the seat area (if you are having a "wimpy spell" you can unbolt the seat but it's not necessary to separate it from the fender deck.)

>Carefully lift off the fender deck and there's the hydraulic system filter right on top of a nice clear space plus all the crap that's collected on top of the hydro.

>Also the fillers are easier to access AND be sure to clean off the top of the transmission while it's open and check the duplex transport belt and cooling fan for errors.

>Reassembly is easier with 2 people but I did mine alone and I'm really nothing special in the strength department. Place it back on from the rear of the machine, it goes back into position very easily. Set deck in place and then reach under and feed the seat switch wire back up the hole. Tighten all bolts and reconnect the seat switch wire.

I'm heading all the way down to my local JD dealer tomorrow (3 mi.) for the same supplies along with extra engine oil, filters, plugs, etc. I'm sorry to admit it but the tranny oil change is about 10 hrs. overtime... what with all the massive and frequent 2" and 3" snow falls we've had lately! :D
I got to mine OK with just the deck off, with front on jack/stands. Second motion to use the JD Low-Vis fluid and change filters. Mine feels like new at 300 hour change.
 

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GX 335 and GX345:

Transmission oil and oil filter and hydraulic filter is to be changed at initial 50hrs. and every 250hrs after that. Today my dealer had everything I needed for servicing the transmission but the "hydraulic filter". Same as the last time. These filters must be very popular!
 

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Steamguy,
Be sure to replace both hydraulic filters. You need one each of AM806848 and AM120916. As far as I know, these can only be purchased from your Deere dealer so you might a well buy 5 quarts of Hy-Gard Low Viscosity while you are there.
Deereman,

On my 03 GX335, it does say change at 50 then every 250 but I'm going to do it every 100. Anyway, you say make sure to change the in line filter. The selling dealer told me that filter was basically a screen and the paper one in the hydro unit is the important one. At the first 50 hours, I didn't change it but did at 150. It was a PITA to change. I kept it and am going to get at cutting it in half longitudally and inspecting it because I'm thinking about changing this particular filter maybe every 2nd time. Do you really think changing that one every 100 hours is necessary?
 

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Bill,
I am pretty anal about changing fluid and filters in my equipment. That said you could get by just fine changing the in-line filter every other change. Me, I have to change my filters every time or I am just not happy. But anytime I run across someone who has never serviced their trans I recommend changing both.
 
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