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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a JD 332 yesterday. The key ignition doesn't work anymore. So the original owner showed my how to start it with a piece of metal wire about 1/8" thick. The motor started right away. But after towing it back home on the trailer, it will not start when I tried to unload it this morning:Disgus:.

First I thought I was running out of fuel, added half gallon diesel in the tank, doesn't help. Attached with a battery booster with full charge, still no luck. Engine cranks but it won't start. I have a feeling that engine didn't get any fuel since I didn't smell any diesel while cranking the engine. I also noticed that glow plug indicator didn't light up. But I think it was off while owner showing me how to start the engine yesterday, so I think it is not the glow plug. I don't have access to any service manual right now, and I need to return the trailer to uhaul yesterday.

Doesn't any one know how to disengage the transmission so that at least I can push it off the trailer. I have called two JD service company but none of them can tell me where the disengage lever is. If any one has same or similar model, will you please post a picture if you happen to know where it is? Or any advises to troubleshoot the fuel system? Any help is appreciated!
 

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Look under the fender deck on the right. There is a lever that you I think push toward the ground (or possibly up). That pushes two relief pins in on the tranny pump allow you to move the tractor. They also commonly leak.

Now to the issue. Do you know if the tractor was warm when you showwed up? I ask as the ID (in-direct injection) diesel engines NEED to have all the glow plugs working even on a warm day. Few things to check. With the key on you should hear an electric fuel pump clicking. It is on the bottom left of the frame on the inside. If that works then you test the next thing-the fuel shutoff solinoid. When you turn the key on you should hear a louder click. With the left side engine panel off you should see a lever move. Turn the key off-it will move again. If this isn't working you can wire in the open possition to get you started and off the trailer. Since you say it is turning over, there is compression and it is getting air as well as it did just run. The only things are fuel and spark of the fuel. Again-key on while cold measure if you get voltage to the the glow plug. Short term-jump from the battery to the glow plugs till it starts if nothing. The plugs themselve may also be burned out I had one on my 332 and my fathers 430 had two bad plugs. You can test by ohming them or a continuity test.

You may also consider that the safety circuit is bad somewhere preventing the starter from engaging and hence the jumper wire. That isn't the current issue of not starting as you are basically bypassing it. But if any of the purple wire switches are bad then it won't allow the starter to engage. There is one for each PTO switch (if you have a rear PTO it goes through there), the neutral possition switch and depending on the year the brake switch (mine is an 87 so it doesn't have the brake one). The seat won't allow it to stay running-the others prevent it from starting.

Hopefully that will get you started. Then you can post some pictures and plans you have with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the replying. I will try to find the lever when I get back to home tonight.

Since I am new to a diesel tractor, I don't have much knowledge of it. According to the previous owner, he tried to start the tractor before I came. Since I was almost two hours late for the appointment(really bad traffic here), I assume the tractor wasn't warm when I got there. But he started tractor for me at least four time without any problem, with a small piece of wire.

I also called PO today and he mentioned shutoff solenoid as you did. He said I should hear a loud click, which I don't think I heard at all this morning. But I didn't pay attention to the click yesterday either. If the solenoid was broken, how can I wire it in open position?

I will check glow plugs later if I can get this thing off the trailer today. But I think the glow plugs should be good since he just started and run it yesterday few time without any problem. They cannot be broken together after 12 hours, can they? PO said pretty much all safety switches were bypassed since they were not working or broken. So it shouldn't be the safety switch prevents it from starting either. I will try what you have suggested and report back.

Thanks again.
 

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You can always confirm if they are bad. I kind of doubt that he bypassed the PTO switch as well as that would take effort to actually open things up and the switch itself would need to be bad. That leaves just one or two other switches. The neutral switch can be reached through the side screen easy enough so that may be bypassed. You can see that just by moving the lever and looking if the switch just under the dash has two wires to it or not. Some also have jumpered a keyed power over the safety circuit by hacking into other parts of the harness. My fathers 430 was like that. Please fix the system when you get the chance as it really isn't that hard. You don't want a youngster getting run over by starting it in motion.

Not knowing what the guy did and not being there I can't tell you if the plugs burned out just now or if he had it warmed enough to start. If you don't hear a click I would say it is the fuel shutoff solenoid. I think the direction is just backwards. The solenoid and lever it is hooked to is external so you just wire it to the run position to get you off the trailer. You need to let it go to shut the tractor back off. Again-please fix if that is the issues as that is another safety concern. Nothing like needing to shut the tractor off but can't because of it being wired to stay on.

Once you get to tearing into things I have a nice list of things to look for. But to focus on getting it off the trailer look for the lever.
 

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If I had that tractor, get it off the truck and replace switch and make sure wiring is ok...Haste makes waste..and the waste will be your money trying to bypass whatever the original problem is just to hear it run.
 

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Is the key switch in the on position when you jump it with the wire ? You could be jumping the starter making it turn over, but without the ignition switch on, you'll not have fuel pressure from the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@coalminer16

I found the lever on the right side under the deck, there's a label says "push for manually move" or something like that. I tried my best to push the lever to all directions, it turns but didn't make any difference. I don't know if I did push it hard enough or what. So I start check the fuel shutoff solenoid. I found a video on youtube clearly showing how the solenoid should work (just in case someone is interested, here is the link
). So I compressed solenoid with hand and tied it up with a metal string so that it will not pop back up. The engine starts right away in next second, WOW!!!!! I need to go though everything especially electronic system to make sure all components are working as they should. But before that, I need to replace one rear tire. Any advise on sourcing the tire other than eBay? Again, I really appreciate your and other members help!

@dave2280

I am going to recover whatever safety switches the previous owner bypassed. Safety is always my first concern.

@Leinie,

I will NEVER tell you that I didn't turn the key to run position at the first few tries....

All in all, I am pretty happy with the 332. Although it needs a lot of attention, I cannot complain much because of the price. It even comes with a hydraulic dumper, of course the dumper needs attention too. If anyone on the board has interests in getting a JD snow blower, feel free to let me know. Previous owner wanted to sell it with the mower to me but I don't have use of it since it never snows here.

My next question is will a tiller from JD 265 fit 332? The seller doesn't know the model number of the tiller. I think it is a 30" maniacal one. I do have rear PTO(PTO provides power to vacuum through belts and pulley, dumper is on hydraulic) on my 332, will this tiller work for me?

 

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No, that tiller will not work unless you are a good fabricator.
Glad you got it running !
 

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Is your MCS system ran off with a belt from the pto? I ask as there are some that are driven from a single v belt pulley style and others were driven with a 2000 RPM PTO. If you have the 2000 RPM then you want to get the JD 48 tiller (requires a 3 point and 2000 RPM rear PTO). If with the single v-belt pulley then you need a JD 30 hydro tiller with belly drive. They sold that tiller with two styles of drives but the rear drive has a dual belt pulley on the back. The 30 hydro tiller also doesn't need a 3 point (never came with one) but you need the mounts for it. Someone does make a 3 point if enough people sign a list to have him make a set. I own two of the tillers and they have the option of 12 inch extension as well and they can be reversed direction depending on the soil types.

Tires-if you are looking for just a turf-ebay or craigslist for your tire size as it was common. Bar/ag tires are a little harder to find and cost more but that is how I run mine. I also do V61 ribbed front tires on both.

The lever under the deck-it makes it easier to push but it isn't the best to push even with that pushed correctly. There is a chance that the relief pins are rusted not letting it be pushed. If they were never pushed it can happen. There is also the chance someone put an early 400 series (430/420) reliefs in there which the first few years didn't have relief pins. Later years got the same reliefs as the 300 series even though they weren't used (the pins on top).

If you are offering for the snow blower you need to list the model of it and price range/condition. I have a two stage 47 that is really big for most people. They made two styles of that-one that was lighter and a quick hitch and the other without the quickhitch. The blowers are more universal that way and the hitch can mount a blade and sweeper as well. They also made a couple sizes of single stage blowers. They are lighter and cheaper to buy/sell.
 

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Hello,I only have to add ,when you want to remove the fender deck ; Put to machine on jack stands and take the rear wheels off . I learned that here. A good cleaning never hurts.Wasz
 

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I just finished restoring a 332 today and can tell you that the loud click that comes from the fuel shutoff solenoid must be heard or you will get no fuel. You have three safety switches that must be satisfied to get the solenoid to activate. They are the seat switch, the PTO switch and the neutral position switch. Most likely the seat switch has been deactivated and that leaves the most probable cause as the neutral switch. That is the switch that the go lever on the dash panel must be pressing against to activate the starter circuit. Sometimes on these old tractors you have to hold the go lever towards the steering wheel to press the micro switch to the on position. If the engine will start with you holding the solenoid open then it is an electrical problem and not a mechanical one. If it is not a safety switch then it might be in the ignition switch itself due to rusted or corroded terminals. I have had that problem with intermittent issues. These little three cylinder engines are like the old GI jeeps in that they usually start and run without much fuss. Good luck and keep us in mind if you need any more help. BTW, I know that there are easy ways to do things but I have never taken the rear wheels off to get the fender deck off. If you put some paint tape under the hydraulic handles and take the two engine side panels off then it should come off easily. If it is a 332 then you must remove the fuel cap and watch the fuel vent line that comes off of the filler neck or you will break it off. Putting it back on do the same thing, remove the engine panels, tape the area on each side of the deck at its forward end where it meets the dash tower and put tape on the bottom of the hydro levers. I also remove the two screws on the bottom of the dash tower that are at the bottom and to the rear so that there is a little more clearance when sliding the fender forward. We all learn from our mistakes and to pass them on is golden. Here are a couple of pics of the new 332.
 

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Here is a few pictures of my rigs.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
@Coalminer16
Honestly, I don't know what I have. I took few pictures last night, will you be able to tell what it is? The pulley in the picture is connected to another pulley on the dumper with a belt. I also checked the chassis but see no central PTO, did I miss something? The mower deck was detached when I picked 332 up. Three pictures are rear view(facing the back of the tractor), top view and right side view.


I didn't buy the snow blower since I don't need it. But I am willing to get the information such as model number, price etc from seller if any forum member is interested.

@wasz3520
I am going to give it a power wash after wrapping up all the electrical components and connectors. It is pretty dirty.

@inspectorudy
Hey, I wish my 332 is as shinny as yours. Thank you for the suggestion. But I don't really need to worry about the paint since I am going to repaint it later.
I think one of the safty switch caused the problem to solenoid. I turned the key on, there was no power feed to solenoid, either the wire is broken somewhere, or one of the safty switch works again? I know it is in neutral for sure.

Here are two pictures I took yesterday evening with cell phone. Not pretty but I love it. It will make my busy for quite a while:thThumbsU



As always, thank you for all your input!:thanku:
 

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Looks to be a factory front weight bracket as well which would be needed with the rear MCS (material collection system). I can't tell which PTO you have yet. Can you show or get a picture of what the pulley in the picture is connected to? What it is connected to will tell me what PTO you have.

Mower deck runs off a front PTO. There really isn't a "mid" PTO on this. The 420/430 kind of had a mid since it had a 2000 RPM shaft that could have connected implements from both sides where the 300 series connects all off the belt pulley on the front of the engine-look through your grill-that is the PTO-under the battery support tray.

Mower deck needs a mule drive to turn the belt around correctly to drive the mower which also has two connecting points on the mule drive to the front of the deck. The deck then has two draft arms that conect to two large holes in the middle of the frame. Then there is two "L" shapped brackets on the frame that connect with two long straps to the rear rockshaft. There is to straps that go from the "L" brackets to the deck draft arms to pick it up. Mower height is adjusted from a threaded rod on the rear rockshaft-not the deck wheels. Deck wheels are antiscalp only.

Put a tube into the rear wheel-no need for a new wheel unless you are looking for more agressive tires. Tube you can get by at around $30 vs $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Coalminer16, you are like wiki for JD. Whatever I throw at you, you always have the answer. I will take a picture later when I get back home for the pulley. As far as I can remember, the pulley in the picture was connected to another pulley to the vacuum, which suck the air from mower deck to MCS I believe. But I could be wrong. I have to take the MCS off before I can do anything on the tractor. That thing is huge.

The tractor came with 4 suitcase weight in the front. It is 1241 hours on the engine, made in 1987. A guy nearby is selling 4 rims(two front, two rear) with tires plus 4 wheel weight, asking $200, I probably go get it, the price is OK, right?
 

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Considering one set of rear wheel weights commonly go for around $150-yes that is a good deal. I personally have seen them go for as low as around $70 so with tires/rims it is still a good deal. Both of my 332's are also 1987 models. That seems to be a very common year for some reason and it also didn't have the issue of flaking powder coat paint since they didn't start that paint that year. Also-it is a 150 year anniversary of JD. My second 332 even had a medallion glued to the dash with the 150 year on it. I found a second one on ebay so I could match once I clean the first up.

I am thinking it is the single belt pulley style PTO which only works on the MCS. With the fender deck off is the easiest picture to tell you what the PTO is.

I wouldn't broaden me to all of JD for Wiki but I tend to study the things I have worked on a little much. I graduated as a mechanical engineer which basically is just problem solving. If you look on the left of the posting you will see the images. I have attached a few other projects I have helped with. I have been restoring tractors/JD's for 18 years and counting and I am only 28. Thank you for the comment though. I love helping others and love learning and I have a hard time forgetting things.

So- to the list of things to check.
Axle to frame-frame cracks, front differential cross brace to frame-frame cracks, steering cylinder frame mount cracks, pump relief valve leaking, input/output shaft seal leaks, directly control linkage play (very very common-grab the swash plate control which goes into the pump and if you can move it then you need to replace a few things till it is tight again). Check the radiator fan for grinding on the edges. If there is some you need to replace/shim your rear motor mounts (both of mine needed this). Check the radiator for any dirt build up. If there is build up then there may be a leak. I have had both of mine cleaned and pressure checked. The cooling system is boarder line undersized so everything needs to work correctly. I have plowed for 6 hours at a time rolling the coal most of the way (loading the engine) and it won't over heat. But a lot of people do over heat since it is plugged.

The belly screen/side screens help filter the air for the radiator as do the radiator pre-screen. That prevent plugging of the radiator.

Check the charging system for over charge. Should be between 13-14 volts. If it gets to the 15 range it is too high. Could be the green sensing wire that has corroded connections which a 318/420 starting improvement kit relay will help fix or it could be a bad voltage regulator (VR) or a few other bad things. The relay kit can be done with any relay if you have the right number of pins (I think 5) and hook up correctly. The temp sensing VR helps lower the voltage as well. You can boil the battery and ruin it overtime if not fixed. The battery acid can also ruin the battery support tray (I have a local vender make a repro out of stainless if needed).

The wiring for the VR and alternator likely have been hacked into. I have part numbers for the OEM connectors if needed.

Possible upgrades. 3 point hitch, LED front headlamps from http://tractorleds.com/ suspension seat from a 420/430, 2 speed locking differential from 430/420, H3 kit from Ron at aux-hyd.com.

You will find these 332's just sip fuel at 1/2 the rate of the 318/322 brothers.
 
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