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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It's been a while since I've posted, and my 332 is still trucking along! Sorry this might be a long post. I worked on the electrical system previously as described in this thread: https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/jd-332-glow-plug-light-staying-on.256625/
At that time I installed the temp sensing voltage regulator and the relay for the green sensing wire.

Right now I don't think the battery is charging, I ended up with the tractor dead having to run an extension out to charge it. Further snow clearing keeping the lights off went fine for several hours. The alternator measures 40VAC at full throttle. The battery measures around 12 when running with the rpm up, and lower at low rpm. I haven't gotten much farther than that yet, but I'm thinking I'll check all connections first, both VR and grounds. The glow plug sometimes stays on a bit longer (Maybe 5 minutes?) than I think it should but it does turn off eventually. I use a block heater now as it's impossible to start without one in cold weather. I also keep a trickle charger on the battery which shuts off after it's topped off.

I'm thinking of starting on 240-25-11 at 5a in the manual and going through the motions carefully. I've done most of what is there except I didn't crank for 10 seconds to remove surface charge, I tested after using the machine. I don't have any method for testing current output at step 5c right now but will see what I can get my hands on.

I have other issues/projects that I really should work on for this machine but I'll save that for other posts.

Edit: I guess I didn't really ask a question, but any suggestions are welcome! I'll update as I go through the manual steps. I really want to get this thing charging properly so that I can hook up some kind of hazard light and possibly some other lighting for night time snow moving.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Sounds like you need to TS the VR and possibly replace it. Second is after that, if the GP is still running more than a minute (I don't have the time spec in front of me), it is possible the GP control module has a failed timer in it.

You know the routine, check all grounds and connection from battery to VR.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've read in various places of a GP control module preventing charging, but I don't really see how that's possible unless it pulls so much amperage it still sucks it down. In my previous thread I poked through the GP module and it ended up functioning normally. I'm tempted to just put the glow plugs on a switch instead of the silly timer as it overly complicates something that is very simple. Yes it heats longer in cold weather automatically, but the machine can't start using the plugs alone in cold weather so it seems useless. I'm not too worried about the GP module anyway, as it does turn off (according to the light). The VR was new (and expensive) in 2012, but who knows it could have went bad. Will attempt some work tonight when I can carefully assess.

It seems inevitable that I end up trying to troubleshoot when I have a foot and a half of snow in the drive that needs clearing, the machine is wet, and I'm wet and tired. I got through this morning on an overnight trickle charge so that's something!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I went through some of the checklist starting on 240-25-11:
5a - Voltage was at 12.89V prior to doing anything (just took off trickle charger). 12.25V after cranking for 10-15s, and 12.25V after 1-2 min at fast idle. Voltage reads 11.6 at low idle.
5b - 40VAC at alternator
5c - Don't have an ammeter that will reach the current spec (18A DC), but did the subsequent checks. Grounds all have continuity. Might redo some of them anyway to ensure best connection. Voltage at the green wire terminal to the regulator reads the same as the battery so that's correct.

The voltage regulator itself seems warm, but not hot. No sign of bubbling or distortion on the back (it looks perfect, was new in 2012). I noticed the alternator loads the engine up a bit when connected.

My next step is going to be to disable the glow plugs and see if that's an issue. A thread on wfmachines describes a situation where the plugs stay on, and draw enough current that the machine can't charge up (hopefully this link is ok here https://www.wfmachines.com/forums/showthread.php/124126-332-Glow-Plug-Module-Test). If the plug isn't it I'll borrow an ammeter and do the measurement in 5c. If it's bad I'll decide whether to replace it or put a switch/relay in instead (back to my old thread, ugh!). While I'm at it I'll test the plugs also, minimum resistance is 1 Ohms according to the manual. If they measure that, are they considered good? Or is it a good idea to replace them just because? I'm also curious how much current they draw.
 

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I'm having a similar problem with my 332.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I took out the glow plug controller and determined that it wouldn't turn off. I replaced the three capacitors inside with 47uf 50v caps I had around. Now it runs for 10 seconds or so and turns off. A few minutes in the freezer and it went about 25 seconds. Will try the fixed controller in the tractor tomorrow. I was also checking the glow plugs and only one seemed hot to the touch after running. The resistance was about 5 Ohms on all three. Time for new plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Success! With the glowplug system working I have 13.8V charging at both high and low idle. The crazy thing is the manual
troubleshooting steps would not have solved the problem, only confirmed the charging system was ok.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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I would also resistance check each gp to see which is out of spec. The resistance reading you gave versus manual means at least all are beginning to have issues.
Normal resistance is 1.35 to 1.65 ohms each, might be why module went out, not properly loaded.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
They are around 5 ohms each, I tested them separately. The manual only says 1 Ohm min as a spec.
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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With more resistance less heat generated for cold morning starts. Yes those are normal range generally. However the numbers I gave came from the CTM manual on the 200 series diesel engines Deere put in the 330, 332 and the 430. So it will work, but you will most likely have to cycle the GPs more to get sufficient heat in to the engine to start.
 
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