sorry about your luck on the wiring. let us know if you need some pictures to compare yours to.
I have seen some posts talking about voltage regulator issues with the 318 but not the 332 in particular. I don't have any evidence that it is overcharging at this point. The wire that was melted was from the alternator to the regulator, not to the battery.I would recommend searching for temperature compensated voltage regulator for 322/332. There are a bunch of issues around regulators on those engines and I wouldn't want you to fry a new battery with overvoltage.
If you have the numbers handy I'd be interested. I don't have the correct connector on the VR. It's all homemade looking. But I can wire it to the correct wire gauge easily enough.Actually the 332 is VERY common to over charge things. The wiring from the Alt likely got close to the muffler but the VR could have started shorting out as well. Take the VR off and look for any blistering on the rubber material on the back side. If any-replace. You really need to have the machine warm and full throttle to see how much it will charge for the overcharge. Mine was around 15.3 full throttle and my new batter started to boil over. My other 332 had a dead VR so I had the enjoyment of buying two of those expensive VR's. Also-get the correct wiring connectors. JD still sells them and I could get you the PN's if you would like. No sense in hacking it worse then it already was.
At least I'm not the only one who seems to spend more time with the tractor apart than put together! :trink40: A block heater might be in the near future also, and I have a JD trickle charger I have to install sometime. Last year I kept it in my garage so it wouldn't get "too" cold.I would still do a load test on the battery. Fuel pump, fuel solinoid, glow plugs and starter all take a lot of juice. Not saying it is bad but in the colder temps you want it to start and seeing you have a blower on-I would say it does matter. I did put block heaters in both of mine as well. I do need to trouble shoot my second 332 as I may have a bad glow plug as it just doesn't start good when cold like the other-but it is 1/2 apart for a couple leaks I was fixing. Tonight maybe as I think all leaks are fixed and I can put the hood/tins, supports back on so it isn't so ugly (enough to break a mirror ugly).
I just noticed this, thanks for the info! I might end up troubleshooting mine again as it stays on a bit longer than needed.2018 update: For all you cheapskates like me who arrive here trying to save $70. :tango_face_grin:
The 3 electrolytic caps in my module were dried up, and the legs were broken off 2 of them. Unfortunately, the capacitor markings came off with the goop they poured on the components to abate vibration. I had some 47uf/25v caps on hand and tried those. Also the relay spring was rusted and broken (This would possibly make the relay float/stay on and surreptitiously could burn out the plugs, or even start a fire!!!). I used a spring from some random small relay I had laying in my spare parts box.
1) The relay now comes on at room temp for about ~10 seconds (vs 8sec specified in manual?).
2) Freezing the thermistor keeps the relay on for about ~25 seconds.
3) Unlike the picture posted higher up, almost ALL the components on my module were covered in black rubberized goop. This appears to be for vibration resistance, not moisture as each component was not completely covered.
4) Getting all that goop off without damaging anything is a PITA. I recommend an X-acto knife, a dental pick, magnifier and a good pair of tweezers.
5) it would likely be beneficial to somehow seal up the module when reassembling to avoid rust inside.
So the results are pretty close to what the manual specifies.
Note - I Ohmed out the capacitor legs and my best guess was the negative legs seems to go to the outside of the board on all caps. I must have guessed right because I didn't get any firecrackers on power up.
I hope this helps someone.