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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I got my 318 back yesterday. Drove it for about 10 minutes around mechanics yard and was super impressed with how smooth and responsive my engine was. Ran through different speeds watching engine and transmission perform. It was started several times without issue. I drove it home and it would not crank to get it off trailer. the drive home was an hour.

It has been gone about 6 weeks my gut told me the battery was weak from sitting in the heat so I charged it with a 8amp charger overnight. the battery was stronger this morning but still no crank just clicking. i have not had access to install the new seat switch so it is still securely jumped. my brake safety works. i can hear it when depressed it allows the electric fuel pump to whirl when brake is depressed. the battery cables are nice and they are tight.

on a car i would want to replace the starter but at 550hrs i dont want to believe anything is wrong with the oem starter

the electric fuel pump was chosen because I felt the crank time was longer than it should be (fast on electric) so i looked for access/pricing to an oem starter and google showed me
a starter improvement kit AM107421. The small amount of info I saw on it it seemed to negate any electrical resistance allowing starter to an easier start. any ideas on what part i should suspect . man was i sad when it did not start up.

thanks a lot
 

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I would get the battery tested at any autoparts store. Normally free of charge.
 
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The starter relay kit will solve your problem. The voltage drop on the 30 year old connections thru all the safety switches is dropping the voltage to the starter.
 

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I have a lot of confidence in a starter assist relay...but you can get the parts for less that 15 dollars and do it yourself.. you need a relay like this ...12v 40 amp relay for horns and lights...you also need a wire with a fuse holder ( 40 amp ) a few short pieces of wire ...12 or 14 gauge ans some solderless connectors
@Brad came up with this design and when installed properly does solve MOST problems like this...it gets wired in like this
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a lot of confidence in a starter assist relay...but you can get the parts for less that 15 dollars and do it yourself.. you need a relay like this ...12v 40 amp relay for horns and lights...you also need a wire with a fuse holder ( 40 amp ) a few short pieces of wire ...12 or 14 gauge ans some solderless connectors
@Brad came up with this design and when installed properly does solve MOST problems like this...it gets wired in like this
View attachment 2517539
this is interesting. thanks for changing that photo. can i get to the solenoid to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I see a photo and I think it is present. I will post a photo tomorrow. thanks guys
 

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On a 318 the starter is way back on the left side as you sit in operators seat so it is hard to get to...but you can mount the actual relay anywhere and run the wires
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is what I suspect might be the update. They wrapped it on the oil stick. Can you tell if it is indeed the part? Thank you
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It looks correct, but check wiring and verify it looks like the wiring in Marks's post #4. Bob
 
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That is a relay. What he is saying, he doesn't know if it is wired to the starter or not.

Try this. Turn the key. When you hear a click, tap on the relay in the photo above. If your tractor starts you may just have to replace the relay only.
 

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Gased, The relay is correct, but as Brad stated, I've no clue how it's wired. A 322, and maybe others, use this exact same relay to prevent over charging...same relay, just wired/connected differently.

Check that you have a wire going from your starter solenoid to terminal #87 on relay. The wire that WAS on your solenoid (probably purple) should go to terminal #86.

The theory/concept of the starter assist relay is that corrosion in switches and connections tend to drop the available power to the starter solenoid. The smaller relay requires less power to activate and also allows full battery voltage to starter solenoid.

Assuming the relay is wired correctly, the next thing I would check is the starter solenoid. Due to its location not easy, but you need to get a meter lead onto the stud with the cable going to the starter, NOT the battery, and the other lead to ground. Turn key to "Start" and relay should "click", meter should show battery voltage... 11.5v or better... and engine should turn over! If all else fails, follow Sundancer's advise and have battery load tested.

Test all and report back. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
All great information I thank you all. I will do those things I was just wondering if that was the part, I understood the post. My reasoning behind my question is sometimes the part changes for one reason or another. I wish I had an area to work in that was cooler It's brutally hot outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK Update

While you were giving me ideas and instructions I was knee deep in trying something first, i did not mention it because it would have made it more complicated. Now is the time to complicate things.

Basically I was told this issue is possible with older wiring, hence the am107421 kit. So I knew that I had tinkered with the wiring so I reasoned if I undid the thing it should let it crank.

The thing was I added the load of an electric fuel pump and it worked then this no start came up.

I thumped the little black box, still no start. battery is at least 12.7 will change battery out when i get done messing with battery attachment fittings

So I wired up a pump on/off switch(pic #2), grounding one side to the frame and put the hot side to the battery and wired in a 7.5 fuse to take it off the deere wiring straight to battery and plugged pump in loop. Pump does not work and it blows every 7.5 fuse. i suspected i messed up pump so i plugged pump in back into the 20amp deere fuse and pump works.

based on what you guys taught me the wiring / load does not seem to effect the start. pump works if i plug it back into 20amp fuse.(pic#1)

i still have a few hours of work time i will continue to mess with it and let you know where i end up

thank you

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So I wired up a pump on/off switch(pic #2), grounding one side to the frame and put the hot side to the battery and wired in a 7.5 fuse to take it off the deere wiring straight to battery and plugged pump in loop. Pump does not work and it blows every 7.5 fuse. i suspected i messed up pump so i plugged pump in back into the 20amp deere fuse and pump works.
I am not at all clear on what you mean by the above sentence. I understand what all of the words mean individually, but the way you strung them together could mean, at least, two different things to me.
  1. You wired one side of the switch to ground and the other to the battery. Not sure where the pump got wired. This would blow the fuse every time.
  2. You wired the ground side of the pump to ground. You wired one side of the switch to the plus side (red wire) of the pump. You wired the other side of the switch to the fuse. You wired the other side of the fuse to the battery.
If you did #1, that is your problem. It is wired incorrectly.

If you did #2, that seems to indicate your pump needs more than 7.5A. That seems excessive. Maybe your pump is defective?

If you did something else, perhaps more words or a more complete picture of the wiring will make it clearer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thanks frogmore. I will clear it up tomorrow. i have quit for day. heat got to me. I think I messed up. did get battery checked tested good. bought new post bolts nuts for a sure tight fit. i will try to start an hour earlier tomorrow. i am back where i was wiring wise with pump feeding off tractor pic #1 and the pump operating and the starter clicking. so i will try harder and start earlier to avoid the heat. i had real trouble thinking
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So I had a bad day yesterday and did not provide good information. i am sorry.

allow me to begin again. I got the starter click and we went in the direction of an old wiring system. I remembered I messed with the electrical system so it made sense to me that if I undid the fuel pump connection I might get the starter to work. I miswired it. it did not work and fortunately it did not hurt anything. so I put it back pump works engine clicks.
2 good things i did, replaced both battery clamp bolts/nuts and tested battery it is good. fuel pump draw is 1amp

new day, I decided to improve the engine ground with star washers on top of engine #1 side , then I saw the mechanic made area neater by wrapping up the wiring which might be a problem. the wires were loose before. i dont know which is what now. i will post some photos. the headlight wire was loose (lid is off) and a black connector is melted. wrapped up rather than loose.
pic#C is overview, white wire is wrapped up and plugged in something
pic#A shows blue wire a fuel pump ground I installed when pump went on
pic#B is melted black connector, not melted before valve job also I am putting two star washer under that ground bolt next to it.

Thanks for your help

I will look for starter solenoid after I get the washers installed

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Cleaning connections is a good place to start, but still some unknowns in MY mind!
You said 'battery tested good.' HOW did you test battery? A fully charged battery can show 12.7v/12.8v with a meter, but with bad cells, it may only output a few amps when a load is placed on it. If you didn't, have battery load tested at auto parts store. If you had it load tested and it was good, forget this comment!

I'm not familiar with the 318, so I'm not sure if this is even possible! IF you can access your solenoid:
Run/touch a temporary wire from pos battery terminal to terminal where pink wire connects on solenoid. If engine turns over, bad connections between battery and solenoid... and there's a LOT of them! If engine does not turn over, bad solenoid or starter. Next, connect meter to large terminal on solenoid going to starter, NOT to battery, and ground. Use temp wire to activate solenoid. If 12 volts going to starter and engine doesn't turn over, bad starter. If 0 volts going to starter, bad solenoid.

A method that may work (??) for accessing solenoid terminal is to tape a wire to a metal coat hanger or even a welding rod. Secure one end right at the end of the insulation and leave about 1/2" of bare wire exposed. "Rod" can be bent to gain access and can be "pushed against" the terminal for connectivity.

Determine EXACT fault before "repairing" something! Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
We will wait until we get some 318 feedback. Battery was tested at auto parts place. I am pointing out everything I see like the wiring that is different. I just can't get down there to see much even when I do. It is weird to me it worked until ride home.
 

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Ohm out battery cable! My tractor has been slow to crank and after a 1/2 hour of mowing it shut down. Thinking battery, I grabbed my meter and just barely brushing against the post cable, it fell off of the terminal. The cable was corroded underneath the insulation, completely invisible by looking!

Ohm reading should be something like .05 ohms or less. Bob
 
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