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Just had an idea,you might cut that bad part off the top and have a new piece welded on and dressing up the weld would be a small task,another owner cut his spindle off and welded on a larger one to accept a larger wheel,that was a few years back,it’s soft steel I think
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Just had an idea,you might cut that bad part off the top and have a new piece welded on and dressing up the weld would be a small task,another owner cut his spindle off and welded on a larger one to accept a larger wheel,that was a few years back,it’s soft steel I think
Got a snow storm on its way. Drove 45 minutes and back to pick up new sealed bearings for front hubs. So, I'm just going with the damage on the spindles. The replacement # AM102605 bearings are a little tighter inside so the wear on the spindle creates a bit less slop. At the end of the day I can see that the LH bearings were probably alright, but the RH original Lutcos needed to be replaced. I'll keep the replacement bearings from the LH side as spares. Now the only remaining question is it worth at all packing the hub with grease between the sealed bearings?
 

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Packing the hub: Quick answer no, but if you can get a little grease on the spindle between the bearings, it'll prevent some future rusting. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got these two things from the local Menards and True Value. Never tapped before.

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Drill press is mighty old. My first attempt was way too shallow and ended up drilling 3/8" or so into the axle.

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Zerk inserted, not quite perpendicular to the axle.

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As you can see, not quite perpendicular either way, but it'll do.

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Spacers inside the pivot bolt hole. These looked alright, like non-wear items might, so I left them. Drilled the hole through the axle right to these. Tested grease throughput once the zerk was in. Grease came on through strong.

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Put my bearings and bushings into the freezer for a couple of hours, sprayed a bit of lithium grease into the hole, and hammered them in. One of the bronze bushings went in super easy, the other not too much effort. Seems the freezer idea worked pretty good for them. Freezing helped the bearings more than the steel spindle bushings -these were the most challenging to get in. A note: when using a rag and socket or brass hose fitting (I used both, depending on diameter), the fabric may get caught under the bearing or bushing shoulder. Happened each time, a nuisance thread or three hanging out from between the hub and the bearing. Make sure to keep it from getting pinched and it won't happen to you.

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Discussion Starter #26
Put it all back together yesterday and was able to blade the pad and blow the driveway. Steering is a little more confident now, but due to spindle wear there's still some slop in it. I am getting some JB Weld today to build up the wear on the cross brace where I will be installing some 1/8" steel wear plates. There is not much room in there for more than that given I was initially considering 3/16-1/4" plate.
 

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Frank, Put clear plastic tape or a piece of "Saran Wrap" on the back of your wear plate before mounting. When your wear plates wear again in the future, the JB weld will be attach to the tape/Saran and not the wear plate...just makes replacing easier! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Frank, Put clear plastic tape or a piece of "Saran Wrap" on the back of your wear plate before mounting. When your wear plates wear again in the future, the JB weld will be attach to the tape/Saran and not the wear plate...just makes replacing easier! Bob
Good idea. I am considering a piece of UHMW tape for the bolt side of the plate for anti-friction. Or maybe that won't last and isn't worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Got my JB Weld the other day and put some on yesterday. I really wanted to do this before I had the axle back together and it would have been so much easier and cleaner. Alas, too much snow to have waited and I don't want to disassemble and reassemble. Began some filing today to flatten, although the RH side came out pretty smooth as I used a piece of 1/8 hardboard with tyvek tape on it to smooth it and it nicely disengaged over night. The LH side had way more wear (see bottom image) and was fussy to work with the steering gear right there.

Tomorrow I will get the 3/16 steel from Menards, cut and drill and at install, put a bit more JB Weld behind the LH wear plate.

One oddball thing is how much more clearance there is on the LH side, between adjustment bolt (new, by the way) and the plate. Easily 50% wider gap. I measured the front side round "bumper," and while it is worn more, not that much more! Yet the measurement between the two frame plates, front and back of axle, is the same distance.

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RH adjustment bolt, JB Weld, and about 1/4" of space to put in a wear plate.

As you can see, a lot more space between the LH adjustment bolt and wear plate...

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