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Discussion Starter #1
Took out the front axle last night. New to these repairs, I thought I would document the process -maybe it will help another newbie?

-The steering arm nut and bolt are removed first -not easy to get them to move, but they will with some convincing.
-The axle deflector adjustment bolts, both sides, need to be backed off second. They are a bear to loosen. I used a box wrench, 24mm I believe, and a 3 lb hammer to get it to rotate. Once loosened, it turned relatively easily. The bolt heads on mine are well-worn and the welded on plate worn even more. I will need to add a replaceable wear plate to the frame.
-When jacking up the tractor, I placed my jack under the center front axle.
-I removed the belly screen to be able to locate my jack stands on the frame rails out of the way of the jack's wheels.
-Once situated on my jack stands, it was time to work on the cotter pin that slides through the pivot bolt nut. That took longer than it should have, but not too long.
-The pivot nut came off relatively easy.
-To get the pivot bolt out, I needed to use the jack to raise/lower the axle at center a little this way or that way to be able to get the weight of the axle off the bolt.
-I could spin the bolt but did not slide out so I hit the threaded end a couple of times to get it moving. It was then relatively easy to spin it out.

See the pics attached of various things to note. Some questions for the community will follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
One thing I was not expecting was a bronze bushing at the front and back of the axle bore. The second thing I didn't expect is absolutely zero grease in there -just a dry powder that was like graphite or even soot (in consistency).

There is clearly a larger diameter hole in the center of the axle. I can only assume this is for grease. The other thing I expected was obvious "spacers," Part # M80030 from the catalog. So I thought there were none until I took some phone photos and blew them up on the screen. I could then see a clear division in the center which told me these are the spacers and are presumably designed thinner to allow for a well of grease. Any ideas? It looks like I need to remove the brass bushings because of wear on their bottom ends (although the look better than I imagined they would), but will I also need to remove the spacers? I think maybe not.

The bolt actually looked better than I imagined as well. But, the obvious wear shows at the bolt head where the frame's quarter-inch steel did not wear the shaft, but it did at the bushing. The shaft is about 1/32 thicker where it passed through the frame than where it passed through the axle. The original yellow color of the pivot bolt remains in the center of the shaft where no friction was present.
 

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Three of my friends
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I drilled a hole and put grease cert in the 318 s I had.
 

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Used a 90 deg so it could be greased from the front.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ordered the pivot bolt and bushings for the axle.
Today I removed the spindles. There is some where on them.
The question then becomes, if one doesn't want to spend $500 on two new spindles, then is it still worth putting new bushings in given the worn spindles -particularly the top sides. Or is there value in replacing bushings regardless of spindle wear?

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Three of my friends
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Ordered the pivot bolt and bushings for the axle.
Today I removed the spindles. There is some where on them.
The question then becomes, if one doesn't want to spend $500 on two new spindles, then is it still worth putting new bushings in given the worn spindles -particularly the top sides. Or is there value in replacing bushings regardless of spindle wear?

there’s some wear there but it took 30 odd years to do it,I think I would just replace the bishings and grease good,there would be some movement but I doubt you would ever notice it,there might be some used one on eBay,
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Three of my friends
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I wonder how job weld would work to build up that area,it could not go anywhere if it came loose.?
 

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JB Weld
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Too boot, I am reading some old forum posts about the Pre-86 300 series (and 400) replacement wheel bearings not fitting the spindle -not the metric/inch issue, but that the replacements are just under the shaft diameter and won't fit. So this has me looking at other bearings too, because I know those are ready for replacement. Seems the JD Part# AM102605 won't fit and I need either a NAPA SME 708412 or Stens 230-237 or event he alternative listed at JD SUNBELT OUTDOOR PRODUCTS A-B1SB6534 for my 1985 front wheel bearings. Meanwhile, this alternative listed on JD Parts # B1CO17 doesn't look like it will at all fit with an extra 7/16ths on the outside diameter.

It's hard to believe that John Deere has not corrected their systems since this cropped up years ago. More hmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Today I pulled out the wheel bearings, the axle pivot bushings, and the spindle bushings. The bronze axle bushings were the toughest because of the softness, they gave under the steel impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Axle bushings in bronze. Beat up easy in their removal. These took long compared to the spindle bushings.
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Been reading about issues with the replacement bearings. Turns out I have one wheel with replaced bearings and one with originals -or replaced long ago.
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The right hand wheel had the Lutcos, not sealed on the interior. Plenty of grease in both wheels, despite the LH Peer bearings being sealed. The Lutco do feel sturdier, but I since the web says the Peer replacements are a wee bit smaller than 1" interior diameter, wondering if they will be a better fit than the old style which can be bought at Napa or even from Deere using an alternate number. Given that I do not want to deal with finding new spindles, used or otherwise, placing the slightly tighter (and cheaper) new style may be the way to go. I'll bring a spindle to deere to trial the fit. Last question is whether or not it is necessary to replace the snaprings at $3.31 a piece or just use the older ones.

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1/8 will be fine,if you have a farm store near,they will have them.suspect it caused some problems before,what size are ur spindles.
 

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The snap rings should be ok
 

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Discussion Starter #18
1/8 will be fine,if you have a farm store near,they will have them....what size are ur spindles.
Ok on the 1/8 -the spindles are the 1" diameter, although they are between 1/64th and 1/32 worn in some spots on the circumference. They do seem to wear unevenly (all the steering parts) depending on where the most pressure is.
suspect it caused some problems before,
What do you suspect has caused some problems before?
 

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Ok on the 1/8 -the spindles are the 1" diameter, although they are between 1/64th and 1/32 worn in some spots on the circumference. They do seem to wear unevenly (all the steering parts) depending on where the most pressure is.

What do you suspect has caused some problems before?
Lack of grease,grease them and the last forever,nearly
 
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