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If it comes out in pieces that ok,it is straight sides so there’s no issue with breaking the flange,
Oops I see the flange now,yep it has to come out one way,set it over your vise just wide enough to to accept the width of the bearing,it should come out,do you have a socket the size of the bearing?
 

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Oops I see the flange now,yep it has to come out one way,set it over your vise just wide enough to to accept the width of the bearing,it should come out,do you have a socket the size of the bearing 15/16?
 

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Nono 15/16 would be too big.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Back to Removing the Driveshaft with Pictures:

After removing the battery and battery tray, push the wire harness out of the way and squeeze the arm into the space between the hydraulic lines that T-off in the center bottom of the pedestal. You do not need to remove these hoses to clear them with your tools. I used an angling rachet bar to break the hold of the bolts attaching the yoke to the engine. Four bolts there, and mine were remarkably easy to break the hold. Too easy, I think, but then the PO replaced the engine and maybe didn't torque them all the way because of limited clearances. I turned the driveshaft with a screwdriver placed in the u-joint behind the pedestal. Easy.
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Red arrow points to the yoke. The big beige thing is my arm. Once each bolt was broken, I could unscrew them by hand, but I left them in until I loosened the four engine mounting bolts.

Moving the engine forward is a necessary step -but you do not need to remove the engine to complete the driveshaft removal. I was able to drop the engine-driveshaft yoke after unbolting the four bolts seen below and sliding the engine forward. You will need to remove the bolts, not just loosen and slide.
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I used a flexible ratchet head for the front bolts since they are tight under the engine.
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Once the engine yoke drops there will be some clearance for movement up/down/left all the while trying to avoid the fins on the coolers (which in my case looks like the PO hit them a number of times when replacing the engine).
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When you get the front yoke in just the right place, with the engine slid far enough forward, you then work on the splined-yoke at the charge pump, pushing/pulling it towards the front of the machine to remove it. Some may come easier than others. I had to work it a bit before it cleared the splined shaft. Once it was removed I could see the toll the loose yoke took on the transmission shaft splines. Not good, but don't want to take this job to a total transmission rebuild. I am purchasing a clamping yoke, JD Part # M89104, at a ridiculous $135 from the dealer. I am hoping the 44-ft/lb torqued bolts clamp that baby enough to keep it from wobbling further and prolong the life of the other parts.
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Once the front and rear of the driveshaft is detached, things get interesting and more time consuming. Depending on the exact placement of your hydraulic lines, you may find different ways of removing the driveshaft from the machine. I dropped myself below the machine, looked up with my hands on both ends of the shaft trying for different ways to removing it.
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I was able to get the engine yoke below the coolers, but there was never the clearance to angle it out.


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These lines block a rearward, upward removal, but also a downward forward removal. This is why some instructions have these lines removed for this project. It can say, it is not necessary to remove any hydro lines with some patience. It is probably not all that difficult to remove some lines, either -so it's about how you want to spend your time.


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I began trying to slide toward the back of the machine.


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From under the machine, looking at the right hand side, I could see that the turnbuckle adjustment was going to block extraction from this direction.


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So I chose to remove the bolt holding the turnbuckle-adjustment bar to the bracket. It was an awkward, left-hand cramping, two box wrench maneuver to unbolt that locking nut, but eventually it came out and....

I was able to remove the driveshaft, angling it out toward the rear, right hand side, sliding the transmission yoke by the transmission oil tubing, dropping the engine yoke down, then sliding the whole shaft forward, down and out. Now, I hope I can get it back in the same way!
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Once your shaft is out (not in the below picture, imagine it gone), you remove these two bolts in order to inspect the charge pump seals. Easy.
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Of course, I could see once I slid the charge pump casting off how much wear was on the transmission shaft where it mated with the casting and bearings. The wobbly driveshaft has its consequences. At this point I could take the pump components out as well. I took the larger piece off, but the smaller, sprocket-like piece did not seem to want to come out with a simple hand-tug. I decided to leave it for now -there is a pin in there which I am assuming is holding it snugly at the moment due to where the pump landed when I drove it into the garage. Guessing here.
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Ultimately I am looking for a leak -an intermittent leak that only occurs when cold. There was fluid at the bottom back of the charge pump casting and the o-ring seemed too flat in the location compared to the top. I am going with this as the leak source, as opposed to the shaft seal which was dry.

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Shaft seal is unfortunately in the high 30$ range at JD for a little piece of rubber-plastic. Easy to remove with a flat-head screwdriver.
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In this picture you can see how the casting is deeply cut (top side, red arrow) beyond the perimeter of the bearing. The bearing looked ok, but I could also see some little metal shavings when I removed the rubber seal. I decided to remove the bearing, but this is not an easy task due to the shoulder on the casting. It can only be removed one way and cannot be punched out as the roller cage is super brittle. I am now devising a way to remove with some hardware store items. I will report back when that is done along with lower cost bearing options.
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I moved on to removing the cross-bearings from the u-joint at the rear ONLY because I am replacing the yoke with the heavy duty bolted yoke. Removing the cross-bearing caps turned out to be challenging because of the type of cross bearings JD used. Internal C-clips I could hardly see or grab, first, and then bearings so big that you could not punch the caps out before bottoming the bearing on the opposite side of the yoke. And these required some serious whacks with the hammer since I do not have any pressing-device.
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I sprayed several times with lubricant, then quit and came back the next day. I couldn't find my curved-jaw vice grips to grab the slippery caps that are really snug in the yoke. I was also mistakenly thinking I needed to spare the caps for reuse. I picked up a new JD cross-bearing (PJohn Deere Cross and Bearing Assembly - Part # AE793E about $11.50) and realized they come with new caps. I have yet to re-install, and will report back on that.

It is supposed to snow this weekend after a two week hiatus that has allowed me the time for this project. I hope to get it all back together, along with a new gas line since it is exposed now and is a bit cracked. The pickup for the "reserve" tank is bad, but not sure that can be done in time.
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Frank, nice descriptions on the removal process and pointing out the wear points associated with a worn driveshaft universal. I would agree that the "O" ring looks like the culprit for the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
So I need to get the bearing out of the charge pump. As the photo above shows, the bearing is a caged type, with brittle sides so attempting to punch it from the reverse side simply leads to shattered a shattered cage. I needed to invent a low-cost way to get the bearing out and the internet gave me a few ideas. Also note that we cannot punch the bearing out from the reverse side of the charge pump since the casting blocks the whole bearing on one side. The pics below show how I did it -hope it helps someone with a similar problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
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The cage bearing is a Torrington JH-1110. Company has since been bought and sold. You can now get the bearing from KOYO company. I bought mine on Amazon and it is sitting in the mailbox 1000' away since I dare not venture the ice coating on the driveway we received today.


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Because the casting blocks the side of the cage bearing on the reverse side of the charge pump, I needed to figure out how to "pull" the bearing out.


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These were my hardware store choices. I started with the easy-to-turn cheaper, 3/8ths concrete anchor on the right. I think the OD of the right anchor is 1/2" and the ID of the bearing is 11/16ths. This kind of anchor can be expanded quite a bit.


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My first attempt went like this. Going with a mental image of pulling the anchor, I inserted the anchor in from the bearing-cage accessible side and inserted the lag screw, cranking it until the anchor grabbed inside the lip of the cage.


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From the opposite side, the side that I would "press." I mounted the pump into a vice and using a socket that fit around the pointy lag tip, but within the footprint of the anchor, I gave it a whack with the hammer. The anchor exploded out the other side with no change in the bearing and now the anchor was in two pieces. Hmmm.


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Not deterred, I tried the other zinc anchor/bolt combo. It could hardly be torqued down enough to meet the side of the bearing, so I collected the lag and two pieces of anchor and decided to reverse the operation. I placed the anchor in from the back of the charge pump and threaded the lag into it. This way there was a lot more, full purchase, on the bearing.


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Hoping it would work, I could also see that this was a better route. I think my prior concern was the mistaken idea that the bolt head had to make it through the ID of the bearing. It didn't matter, but also, it did fit through the ID.


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Once in the vice, the lag tightened enough to fully grab the cage bearing, it was time to give it a whack. Or three. This image is after the second whack. As you can see -it works!


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There you have it: a simple, low cost way to remove a caged bearing mounted with only one way to exit! Now onto putting everything back together as the parts trickle in from JD.
 

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Wow,you did good,novel idea,now you have a good start to fixing your ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Onward! It's snowing a good clip here in Minnesota after rain, ice, and rain, some more ice. I'm leaving town soon, but I really thought I could get this machine back together to clear the 1000' of driveway one last time before I return. Not going to happen! However, I received today my JD ordered parts: new HD yoke, o-ring, seal for the charge pump, new gas line and some odds and ends. It's not all I can see needs to be done but its going to have to be enough for now.

Went to put the new cross-bearing into the new HD yoke and driveshaft. As much fun putting it back together as it is taking apart? Nope, not as much, but still plenty of frustration to make getting it done without breaking it feel good. That said, my new JD cross bearing came with C-clips (one of the better deals in JD parts as it comes with the clips, the bearing, and the grease nipple) and the fourth one was completely wrong -see picture below.
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The three on the right are my old ones -the big one is the oddball in the package. Just used one of the old ones -too much trouble to try to get it right at the dealer and all the snow, etc.

Otherwise I think the cross bearing went ok. It's all together now and waiting on the press-fit of the charge pump drawn cup needle bearing that I figured how to get out, but cannot get the new one back in. More to come... Below, the HD yoke.. I couldn't find the M10x45mm bolts, so bought 3/8ths x 1-3/4" from the local HW store. A little loose in the holes, but that shouldn't be an issue...right?... And for the sharp eyed out there: those bolts need to be placed in opposite directions and I hadn't done that since I'm not ready to install. Will do it then!

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Well yeah, nobody that knows anything about welding would use a stick welder on sheet metal. Ain't the right tool for the job :) But a TIG, MIG or even flux core welder would fit the bill here and that's what I'd use.

I'd just get some 3/16" angle iron or plate steel and have at it.
There was a day when stick welders were all we had. And we got by. It's all in the technique, proper rod and heat. Kids are spoiled these days!
 

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There was a day when stick welders were all we had. And we got by. It's all in the technique, proper rod and heat. Kids are spoiled these days!
Heh. I've tried to stick weld sheet metal with some 1/16" 6013 rods. Did okay but not anything I'd be proud of. What's the trick to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Time for an update! As of now the tractor is back together. Snow on the way, so just in time.
While doing this project, other things came up -fuel lines for one, internal bearing on the charge pump for example. The pics below show the rebuild with some notes on the picture that hopefully help someone else down the road.

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Hardware store items to build the bearing and seal press.

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Ready to crank the nut.

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Worked great with a little hygard as lube.

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To do the seal, I reversed the bronze bushing to the opposite side

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The internal cog wouldn't come off as it should. I think the nub on the shaft was the reason. I think that was also the reason for the groove cut in the charge pump bearing shoulder seen in an above photo.


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Next post will have the fuel line redo
 

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Discussion Starter #60
After the shaft was replaced, I moved on to the fuel line replacement. My reserve fuel never kicked in when I turned the shift to reserve. Suggestion was that it was the reserve pickup but I found little wrong with it and it had been replaced at one point.

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Hardly any trash in the tank.


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Although this rolled out whatever it is.


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I decided to reuse the old pickup parts as they look ok.


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Some Tygon for the reserve tank


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Last two pictures next post
 
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