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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
Your probably right,you are looking at the actual pump which looks like a sprocket,I doubt it’s replaceable as a single part,I’d just use it like it is with a new bearing n seal,the wear most likely is from all the vibration.If the front seal wasn’t leaking I would think the movement wasn’t enough to make the seal fail and that’s good
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
Your probably right,you are looking at the actual pump which looks like a sprocket,I doubt it’s replaceable as a single part,I’d just use it like it is with a new bearing n seal,the wear most likely is from all the vibration.If the front seal wasn’t leaking I would think the movement wasn’t enough to make the seal fail and that’s good
really can’t say it’s got bottom wear because it rotates all the time the engine is running
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
Get the bearing out and take it to a bearing suppl and they can get the new one for you
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
Get the bearing out and take it to a bearing suppl and they can get the new one for you
On your seat pan,just stop drill the crack,use a large flat washer under the spring and it will be fine,fuel lines,replace them and get new rubbers for where the fuel line enters the tank,remove the tank and clean it out while you are there,check the reserve line,usually they are broken.
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
Cheaper but similar quality to the JD bearing? These parts from JD are ridiculous $$$
Yes most likely they will be cheaper but sometime there’s not much difference,like deck bearings,JD are not overpriced
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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4,054 Posts
I know someone has done the research for the proper cross bearings on the drive shaft. Hopefully someone will find the thread and we can have it made into a stick in the tech section or in the proper vintage section. IIRC their were timkins.
 

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Just John Deere
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739 Posts
I know someone has done the research for the proper cross bearings on the drive shaft. Hopefully someone will find the thread and we can have it made into a stick in the tech section or in the proper vintage section. IIRC their were timkins.
JD AE793E $11.60 EA.
Napa part #UJ861 $18.99 EA.
Generic D062000
 

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Registered
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622 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Two questions: Does anyone have tips on getting this bearing out. It has damage, so needs to go. Secondly, I can get a BH-1110 KOYO for 10$ or the JD model for 40$. Since this Torrington seems to cross with the KOYO, seems good?
Edit: Seems Koyo bought Torrington from Timken while back. Thinking about getting this off amazon for 10$ Still cannot easily get it out without damaging the charge pump with nicks.
2442183
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
It’s pressed in,get something near the outside diameter and it will press out with ease,not sure if it’s a shoulder bearing that would break the casting,get the new one and see if it has a shoulder first unless someone might have replaced one.
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
It’s pressed in,get something near the outside diameter and it will press out with ease,not sure if it’s a shoulder bearing that would break the casting,get the new one and see if it has a shoulder first unless someone might have replaced one.
The deck for a 200 series has a similar bearing and it’s a booger to get out.
 

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622 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
It’s pressed in,get something near the outside diameter and it will press out with ease,not sure if it’s a shoulder bearing that would break the casting,get the new one and see if it has a shoulder first unless someone might have replaced one.
The opposite side is blocked by a shoulder on the pump casting. When I tap with a screwdriver, the bearing's cage just crumbles.
 

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Premium Member
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4,156 Posts
You can try first getting all the small bits out of it (cage and rollers), then collapse the housing inwards, then pull it out with visegrips or pry it out.
 

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622 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
I think I am going to try some of these methods in this post:


Particularly the expanding anchor first, then I'm considering the jb weld I bought, pack it in with a nut, let it harden and then leverage it out by threading in a bolt.
 

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Three of my friends
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8,883 Posts
If it comes out in pieces that ok,it is straight sides so there’s no issue with breaking the flange,
 
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