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Discussion Starter #1
A previous thread where I showed off some basic mods to keep vibrations down led to a conversation about the vibration source. Today I began the investigation. Below is the video of what I found. This will begin the process of the repairs which I will document and post here.

 

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Ok, began this project in earnest today after viewing several threads and mmmrbeef's videos (which are very helpful). Took the pan off -easy enough, the battery out, the first bolt on the driveshaft-engine universal yoke which was remarkably not tight. Viewed some other things once taking things apart that maybe should be dealt with...

Seems the pan has cracked under so much flexing at the seat. Has anyone ever welded some additional support under the pan?

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Should probably replace the gas lines up to the split at the reserve tank switch. What is the deal with that switch anyway -never been able to get it to start me up when out of gas.
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I get what these two buttons on top of the transmission charge pump are for (to allow you to roll the tractor while off), but does anybody know how it works?

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So here is where I will be working. 99% sure my seal is leaking here -it only happens in winter, when parked in the cold garage. When I bring it into the workshop it stops dripping after a day or so.

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And, here is the other reason this is coming apart -the wobbly yoke at the spline shaft. Seems significant and the machine does shutter when reversing, certain rpms, or using certain attachments. The spline shaft also moves, although quite a bit less, so I believe that indicates I should replace the bearing as well as the O-ring and Seal.


 

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Ok, began this project in earnest today after viewing several threads and mmmrbeef's videos (which are very helpful). Took the pan off -easy enough, the battery out, the first bolt on the driveshaft-engine universal yoke which was remarkably not tight. Viewed some other things once taking things apart that maybe should be dealt with...

Seems the pan has cracked under so much flexing at the seat. Has anyone ever welded some additional support under the pan?




Should probably replace the gas lines up to the split at the reserve tank switch. What is the deal with that switch anyway -never been able to get it to start me up when out of gas.






I've seen threads on here where support has been welded or bolted in. I will be doing some MiG welding on my seat pans this spring to fix some cracks.

If the "reserve" position doesn't give you any fuel I would bet that the pickup line inside the tank needs replaced too.

Good luck!
 

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Make Better Mowers
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Ok, began this project in earnest today after viewing several threads and mmmrbeef's videos (which are very helpful). Took the pan off -easy enough, the battery out, the first bolt on the driveshaft-engine universal yoke which was remarkably not tight. Viewed some other things once taking things apart that maybe should be dealt with...

Seems the pan has cracked under so much flexing at the seat. Has anyone ever welded some additional support under the pan?

View attachment 2441865


Should probably replace the gas lines up to the split at the reserve tank switch. What is the deal with that switch anyway -never been able to get it to start me up when out of gas.
View attachment 2441866


I get what these two buttons on top of the transmission charge pump are for (to allow you to roll the tractor while off), but does anybody know how it works?

View attachment 2441867


So here is where I will be working. 99% sure my seal is leaking here -it only happens in winter, when parked in the cold garage. When I bring it into the workshop it stops dripping after a day or so.

View attachment 2441868


And, here is the other reason this is coming apart -the wobbly yoke at the spline shaft. Seems significant and the machine does shutter when reversing, certain rpms, or using certain attachments. The spline shaft also moves, although quite a bit less, so I believe that indicates I should replace the bearing as well as the O-ring and Seal.


Because I use a Lincoln Stick Welder, I wouldn't begin to try to weld a heavier plate to the body. What I would do is remove the paint from where you want the plate and then Braze it to the body. That will give you the strength you're looking for without the fear of burning out holes in the body.
 

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Ok, began this project in earnest today after viewing several threads and mmmrbeef's videos (which are very helpful). Took the pan off -easy enough, the battery out, the first bolt on the driveshaft-engine universal yoke which was remarkably not tight. Viewed some other things once taking things apart that maybe should be dealt with...

Seems the pan has cracked under so much flexing at the seat. Has anyone ever welded some additional support under the pan?

View attachment 2441865


Should probably replace the gas lines up to the split at the reserve tank switch. What is the deal with that switch anyway -never been able to get it to start me up when out of gas.
View attachment 2441866


I get what these two buttons on top of the transmission charge pump are for (to allow you to roll the tractor while off), but does anybody know how it works?

View attachment 2441867


So here is where I will be working. 99% sure my seal is leaking here -it only happens in winter, when parked in the cold garage. When I bring it into the workshop it stops dripping after a day or so.

View attachment 2441868


And, here is the other reason this is coming apart -the wobbly yoke at the spline shaft. Seems significant and the machine does shutter when reversing, certain rpms, or using certain attachments. The spline shaft also moves, although quite a bit less, so I believe that indicates I should replace the bearing as well as the O-ring and Seal.


I have sometimes welded pieces of flat iron to the piece that fits under the pan, making it both longer and wider. That spreads the load on the fenderpan.
 

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Because I use a Lincoln Stick Welder, I wouldn't begin to try to weld a heavier plate to the body. What I would do is remove the paint from where you want the plate and then Braze it to the body. That will give you the strength you're looking for without the fear of burning out holes in the body.
Well yeah, nobody that knows anything about welding would use a stick welder on sheet metal. Ain't the right tool for the job :) But a TIG, MIG or even flux core welder would fit the bill here and that's what I'd use.

I'd just get some 3/16" angle iron or plate steel and have at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Everyone has different welding ideas and skills. I've only used stick in the past but my wife is a sculptor and she has an oxy/acet setup. Not sure what she'll say since I haven't inquired, but I usually have to take the initiative myself on these things, and the idea I'm hearing from everyone is -Yes, do something to shore it up!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
As much as I want to put all the work I've done yesterday in removing the driveshaft, complete with pictures, I need to jump forward to the discoveries I've had at the moment. FWIW, the driveshaft is in pretty good shape as I couldn't get any side to side movement in the cross bearings, but there was the considerable play on the spline yoke that I will likely replace with the HD spline yoke at ridiculous cost?

I've removed the charge pump and believe I discovered the source of my trans fluid leak at the bottom of the O-ring. I also see considerable wear on the shaft and I have questions that I cannot answer. Maybe some on the forum have had experience with these:

Below are pictures of the charge pump, front/back and what I think is a good bit of wear on the bottom, right behind the bearing. Afterward, a video which shows how much wobble is in the shaft as it enters the transmission. How much play should be in this component? Is it worth replacing the charge pump bearing given that wear? What would be responsible for this wear so I can look to replace/repair if needed or financially possible? Finally, I don't think the seal is the cause of the leak, but should I replace it anyway? It looks to me like someone had put some sealant in there, but maybe not... If I do replace it, is it something I simply punch out?

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As much as I want to put all the work I've done yesterday in removing the driveshaft, complete with pictures, I need to jump forward to the discoveries I've had at the moment. FWIW, the driveshaft is in pretty good shape as I couldn't get any side to side movement in the cross bearings, but there was the considerable play on the spline yoke that I will likely replace with the HD spline yoke at ridiculous cost?

I've removed the charge pump and believe I discovered the source of my trans fluid leak at the bottom of the O-ring. I also see considerable wear on the shaft and I have questions that I cannot answer. Maybe some on the forum have had experience with these:

Below are pictures of the charge pump, front/back and what I think is a good bit of wear on the bottom, right behind the bearing. Afterward, a video which shows how much wobble is in the shaft as it enters the transmission. How much play should be in this component? Is it worth replacing the charge pump bearing given that wear? What would be responsible for this wear so I can look to replace/repair if needed or financially possible? Finally, I don't think the seal is the cause of the leak, but should I replace it anyway? It looks to me like someone had put some sealant in there, but maybe not... If I do replace it, is it something I simply punch out?

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View attachment 2442046

The only support for the front of the transmission pump shaft is the bearing in the charge pump, so wobble with the charge pump removed doesn't count. Wobble with the charge pump on is what counts. I would definitely replace the seal if you have it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The only support for the front of the transmission pump shaft is the bearing in the charge pump, so wobble with the charge pump removed doesn't count. Wobble with the charge pump on is what counts. I would definitely replace the seal if you have it apart.
So, it's hard to tell about the condition of the bearing, but my guess is you would replace the charge pump bearing as well?
 

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Make Better Mowers
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Bearings for automotive purposes have been notoriously inexpensive in the past., but this one has the John Deere label on it. At any rate, I'd replace. Good luck!
 

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See if there are any part numbers or tags on it, you might be able to get an OEM part number, to find parts from the company that manufactured the pump. I know for my hydro mowers, Snapper/Husqvarna just list a part number for replacing the whole hydraulic pump or motor, but the parts have Hydrogear part numbers on them that I could find seal kits for, as well as repair manuals for rebuilding them for a lot less than buying new.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
See if there are any part numbers or tags on it, you might be able to get an OEM part number, to find parts from the company that manufactured the pump. I know for my hydro mowers, Snapper/Husqvarna just list a part number for replacing the whole hydraulic pump or motor, but the parts have Hydrogear part numbers on them that I could find seal kits for, as well as repair manuals for rebuilding them for a lot less than buying new.
I'll poke around the parts for numbers
 

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Seems to me that your overthinking the movement of the pump shaft,( I’ve never had one apart so I’m just putting in my 2 cents worth) without the front piece on I think there would be movement,bolt it back on and check the movement,I don’t recall that bearing ever discussed as being bad BUT it is 30 odd years old so it could be worn.
 

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You may have some options to "lap" the worn components in the charge pump. This will take some research. That wear may show up in drivability issues. I would be more concerned about the wear on the splines. I'm not sure that the heavy duty coupler will solve the wear there. I have some wear on the pump shaft (smooth-not splined) on my 400 that shows up as slop in the driveshaft yoke. I'm scratching my head on how I can gain a few thousands back on that shaft.

As long as you are that deep, I would definitely replace the seal. It just pries out with a long screwdriver. I have found that most seals can be sourced other than Deere, but the Deere seals don't seem to be way overpriced. You may save several dollars but it may not be worth sourcing elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Seems to me that your overthinking the movement of the pump shaft,( I’ve never had one apart so I’m just putting in my 2 cents worth) without the front piece on I think there would be movement,bolt it back on and check the movement,I don’t recall that bearing ever discussed as being bad BUT it is 30 odd years old so it could be worn.
It did move about the same when the charge pump was on. The bearing may be fine, don't know -but the shaft has bottom wear, just like the wheel spindles have, where the bearing rides on it. May be because of the loose spline yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You may have some options to "lap" the worn components in the charge pump. This will take some research. That wear may show up in drivability issues. I would be more concerned about the wear on the splines. I'm not sure that the heavy duty coupler will solve the wear there. I have some wear on the pump shaft (smooth-not splined) on my 400 that shows up as slop in the driveshaft yoke. I'm scratching my head on how I can gain a few thousands back on that shaft.
The spline wear is of concern too, but I cannot imagine doing anything more with the transmission at this point. I can get a new bearing, new seal, new o-ring at about 100$ for all, maybe change to the HD bolting spline yoke for another $135, but with the understanding that I'll probably not fix the vibrations I'm getting now, but maybe reduce it a bit.
 
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