Not what I said. Jerky was not used, not jerky. I was following the combined advice from you and Bob. Bob's last instruction was what I started with. I gave you details on what I did.
I then said the shifter was smooth now. The action on the stick. Moving the stick produces a smooth movement into and around the range. Smooth movement I compared to the action on the power steering when you turn it left or right. It is better, please don't ask me why. I have no idea. I explained what I did. It was not much. I got stopped to figure out how to overcome the no crank when it's loose so I can proceed with the instructions.
I was giving updates on my progress and things I noticed in case you two recognized something that might helpful to me.
I then hypothesized why the no crank situation occurs when I loosen the three bolts.
Thanks , will update when I get further along. I have a small jumper I am going to try and get my fat hand in the small space and connect it to the neutral switch so I can see if there is creep when the 3 are loose
You're gaining on it!
No crank can be brake switch, if you have one, neutral switch on Fwd/Rev lever, or bad ignition switch as well as many other possibilities!
First, Check battery voltage... you need AT LEAST 11.8 to crank. Next, check 20 amp fuse and verify 12+ volts, then verify pto switch is "Off". If you have a brake switch, jumper it for test purposes. Move Fwd/Rev lever right & left and listen for "click" when lever is full left... you may want to jumper this out for test purposes also. Check purple wire to solenoid when key is in "Start"... should be 12+ volts.
Ok, got safety bypassed and it cranked with it running operated brake and had it in forward and hit brake several times then tightened 3 bolts same result with the only forward creep. Reversed it too.
I happy with the stick operation so somehow that was a plus. I will now look at the eccentric nut. Will start tomorrow. I want to sand something and get it primed today, I am hungry too noticed that switch is riveted bet that is will be fun to replace.
With brakes depressed, and Fwd/Rev in Neutral, you'll be working with eccentric in the back on the hydro linkage that moves the arm going into the hydro, NOT the one in the pedestal controlling Neutral of the Fwd/Rev lever.
"Thank You" for, "Thanks for sticking with me", but my TRUE reward will be YOUR tractor running the way that YOU want it to! I'm here to help and will do so as long as I can. Bob
update, I am going to have to put this off. i had something come up and I have to get my car prepared for a long drive next week. if all goes well and i make it back safely i will have a story to tell.