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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi.
I thought I was on my way to finishing up my purchase of about 6 months ago. I still have a few more things. It's ok

The mower is jerky when shifting. I found a parts manual and printed it out and was making a book. As I was going through the pages getting down to just my machine on the hydro page there is an absorber. Looks like a mini shock absorbers and it must be in the tower (+600000 serial). I just spent an enormous amount of time in the tower and I never saw it, my focus was wires. Is there a trick to replacing it. That must effecting the shifting. I took it for a spin this afternoon and it's when I noticed it. I had to really slow down the shift to reduce the jerk I am hoping it's something I can do.

Thanks for any advice
 

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I have never had one go bad,I thought they ALL had the shock but that would not cause a jerk ,I don’t think,does it feel like the lever has any resistance on it,it should have resistance,it should be below the shifter mechanism,
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have never had one go bad,I thought they ALL had the shock but that would not cause a jerk ,I don’t think,does it feel like the lever has any resistance on it,it should have resistance,it should be below the shifter mechanism,
Part of my question on installing was so I could remove and test it.

I felt it could be the cause since I felt it was tied to the way I moved the shifter. Marked improvement when I slowed down the shift. I have so very little drive time on this I wouldn't be a good judge of whether I felt like there were any resistance I don't have any frame of reference other than what I just mentioned.

I bet I noticed it because I got to drive it some more and I'm just guessing I don't think there's anything wrong with the transmission and you know I've done things like replace the fill hose to the transmission or the pump and I've looked at the tractor closely I didn't see anything that looked worn you know on the linkages or anything. That little part just caught my eye on the IPL.

My Deere wants 160$
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I replaced the one on my 318 when I had it...wasn't fun but did it without tearing out too much.
I am an expert at removing the battery and tray. Removing a bad one would seem to be easy, no resistance, what's concerning to me is putting the new one in, one that doesn't want to move in and out and me having to line the holes up in a tight area
 

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What about attaching one end of dampener cylinder, the most difficult end to access, and then move Fwd/Rev lever to line up opposite end? You may (??) need to disconnect linkage at hydro and you MUST have parking brake released to easily move Fwd/Rev lever. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What about attaching one end of dampener cylinder, the most difficult end to access, and then move Fwd/Rev lever to line up opposite end? You may (??) need to disconnect linkage at hydro and you MUST have parking brake released to easily move Fwd/Rev lever. Bob
that's a plan, thanks.

let me ask another question. i needed to change my hydro fluid. i did not get started until after lunch and met several silly roadblocks. while it drained i moved to the front couplers. i had caps, orings and clips on hand. i looked at parts assembly and i got two clips loose and then it got dark. long story short i filled it back up. I guess I gotta drop it again when the rain moves out next weekend.

How do I remove those couplers. I saw a nut at the base of the outside of coupler and a elbow at the rear attaching to the metal lines. looks like if i turn the nut it will snap the elbow. i put some pernitrate on the coupler until i could ask best way to replace those orings. i hate i filled it but it had to be moved to a safe spot.

thanks for help
 

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You won’t need to drain it,just pull the couplers off and what you lose just add,seemed like there is a nut behind the coupler to remove it.
Did you pull the seat pan off and change the filter?
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
You won’t need to drain it,just pull the couplers off and what you lose just add,seemed like there is a nut behind the coupler to remove it.
Did you pull the seat pan off and change the filter?
No on seat pan. Yes to belly pan. Filter changed. You do both together.

Awesome on the nut being behind it. Looked round. Will look closer.
The fluid looked like it might have had mositure it it. I ran transtune in it before changing hopefully that cures that if it was true

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do the front hydraulic connect couplers need replaced (crappy, cruddy, rusted) - or just the rubber o-rings in them?
They look 35 machine years old. I would choose new ones. I bought 3 items for refit, when I get one off and really look it over I might backup and replace the coupler. Thanks
 

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Make sure if you replace the o-rings to get them by part number not out of some o-ring kit. My JD dealer did that and none of them worked, I went online and ordered them by part number and those worked fine, once you remove the old ones give them a good cleaning with a plastic brush in the slots though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Make sure if you replace the o-rings to get them by part number not out of some o-ring kit. My JD dealer did that and none of them worked, I went online and ordered them by part number and those worked fine, once you remove the old ones give them a good cleaning with a plastic brush in the slots though.
Thanks mine came 2 to a JD bag. Brush slots on what? Condenser coil? I used a/c coil cleaner there.
 

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Thanks mine came 2 to a JD bag. Brush slots on what? Condenser coil? I used a/c coil cleaner there.
If you remove/replace the O-rings take a toothbrush or other plastic brush and clean out the slots in the connector where the old O-rings were before you install the new ones.
 

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A note on snap rings. JD sometimes use snap rings with .050" holes in the ears and most snap ring pliers have small tips that are .062"... and won't fit! Existing snap ring can be "persuaded" off with a small screwdriver. New snap rings, if holes are .050" can be drilled to .062", BUT! are case hardened and you'll need a carbide drill! Check auto parts store for correct size snap rings with holes that fit your pliers.

When loosening/removing nut on tubing, watch tubing carefully. Nuts often become corroded solid to tubing and tubing wants to rotate with nut resulting in cracked/twisted/useless tubing! Lot's of penetrating oil, a little tapping, maybe heat, and a lot of luck and they'll come free!

2 nuts came off on my 322 front couplers in about 5 minutes. More than a week later, a can or so of Kroil, and much cursing, I just cut the tubing...that has already cracked! No room to flare, so I used compression fittings to reattach couplers. Bob
 
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A note on snap rings. JD sometimes use snap rings with .050" holes in the ears and most snap ring pliers have small tips that are .062"... and won't fit! Existing snap ring can be "persuaded" off with a small screwdriver. New snap rings, if holes are .050" can be drilled to .062", BUT! are case hardened and you'll need a carbide drill! Check auto parts store for correct size snap rings with holes that fit your pliers.

When loosening/removing nut on tubing, watch tubing carefully. Nuts often become corroded solid to tubing and tubing wants to rotate with nut resulting in cracked/twisted/useless tubing! Lot's of penetrating oil, a little tapping, maybe heat, and a lot of luck and they'll come free!

2 nuts came off on my 322 front couplers in about 5 minutes. More than a week later, a can or so of Kroil, and much cursing, I just cut the tubing...that has already cracked! No room to flare, so I used compression fittings to reattach couplers. Bob
That doesn't sound good Bob, I hope those fittings hold up for you though.
 

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No problem on fittings. Weatherhead/Eaton industrial grade, good for around 6,000psi! Parker also has industrial grade hydraulic fittings with same pressure rating.

My other option was to pull engine, disconnect lines, flare, and reinstall everything! Fastenal had fittings in 2 days and installed in 15 minutes! Bob
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
A note on snap rings. JD sometimes use snap rings with .050" holes in the ears and most snap ring pliers have small tips that are .062"... and won't fit! Existing snap ring can be "persuaded" off with a small screwdriver. New snap rings, if holes are .050" can be drilled to .062", BUT! are case hardened and you'll need a carbide drill! Check auto parts store for correct size snap rings with holes that fit your pliers.

When loosening/removing nut on tubing, watch tubing carefully. Nuts often become corroded solid to tubing and tubing wants to rotate with nut resulting in cracked/twisted/useless tubing! Lot's of penetrating oil, a little tapping, maybe heat, and a lot of luck and they'll come free!

2 nuts came off on my 322 front couplers in about 5 minutes. More than a week later, a can or so of Kroil, and much cursing, I just cut the tubing...that has already cracked! No room to flare, so I used compression fittings to reattach couplers. Bob
This was the connector story I dreaded when I looked. That's why I only took two snap rings off so I could test my method. I happen to have a hateful pair of pliers that I just replaced with a better pair. The hateful pair actually worked. I have JD replacements snap rings. I have kroll. Wish I had some real MAP gas.

Rain is coming in next few days will be wet, I work outside so I gotta wait. I will keep kroll on it ahead of the work
 
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