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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Thanks CubMon
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I received the IP manual yesterday. Today I received the fuel pump and the sediment bowl. My sediment bowl had some bad chips around where the gasket is. It's made of glass. I was always able to carefully get it to seal but now is the time to make everything right. I was supposed to get a call from US Diesel today about the IP parts coming in but no call. Guess I'll have to call them tomorrow.





 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Got the new fuel pump on today and the new sediment bowl. Another shot of the IP pump. Won't get the IP pump rebuild part till Wed or so. Took a little longer cause they didn't get the special tool in when they expected.

No change in running. Still dies. So I expected.









 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
OK, got it all apart. Pictures later when I get them online.

Two of the 10-24 bolts holding the top cover broke while I was attempting to break them loose. I was playing careful but could not get them to budge. Fortunately part of them is sticking up. I'll play with them later.




The governor retainer was in pieces. Basically the two parts were just going along for the ride.





Cleaned everything up nice. This one has the delivery valve in the center of the pump. I disassembled it to make sure nothing was in there. Blew out all orifices.
Got the transfer pump rebuilt with the new wiper.





Bought a T45 Torx and had to grind the outer edges of the flutes like you all said.







I reinstalled the rollers and the plungers. I went to measure the roller distance.



FIRST QUESTION:
SM-2045 does not list the specs for this pump.
My pump is JDB431 MD3 027 2500
AR79436.
Applied air pressure in the port to expand the rollers. I measured 1.9785"

Gotta gitter done so since it ran fine before I'll let it go with no adjustment.


SECOND QUESTION:
Installing the new governor... the all metal one. The book says make sure to line up the marks. The old one had a line and an "L" on it. The new one only has a small crescent cut. I assume that is the mark so I put the two together. The book also says make sure the number of the old one is the same as the new one. The new one has a number "2" stamped on it. The old one is "L".
Not sure any of this matters with the new gov.
This picture is the new gov before I installed the snap ring.



Hopefully you guys will have something for me tonight.

Getting late so I'll stop and get back to work tomorrow finishing the assembly and install.

Thanks,

Mike
 

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Two of the 10-24 bolts holding the top cover broke while I was attempting to break them loose. I was playing careful but could not get them to budge.
That is a common problem and sometimes even happens on almost new machines. Best to rap on them before forcing too much, and heating them. Even after all that they still sometimes break. Good thing is they are often siezed into the top cover and not where they are theaded. So once the cover is off, you can usually spin out the stubs. Dis-similar metals often have siezing problems due to electrolysis. In this case, it's steel against aluminum.



I reinstalled the rollers and the plungers. I went to measure the roller distance.

SM-2045 does not list the specs for this pump.
My pump is JDB431 MD3 027 2500 AR79436.
Applied air pressure in the port to expand the rollers. I measured 1.9785"
It's in my SM-2045, plus a few other tech sheets. SM-2045 has it listed on page 10-25-8 in the far-right column. JDB431MD3027 - roller to roller measurement is 1.971" - 1.972". So it sounds like your's is turned up quite a bit. If it ran OK before, I'd leave it alone, unless you feel it smoked too much previously. 1.978" is the standard setting used when that pump is on the 2520 farm tractor.

SECOND QUESTION:
Installing the new governor... the all metal one. The book says make sure to line up the marks. The old one had a line and an "L" on it. The new one only has a small crescent cut. I assume that is the mark so I put the two together. The book also says make sure the number of the old one is the same as the new one.
I wouldn't worry about the mark so much. Keep in mind that the new piece you're installing wasn't even invented yet when that tech-book was written. The piece only goes on two ways. The correct way, and 180 degrees off. The mark is supposed to correspond to another mark on the end of the rotor. Whatever you do, just get the mark facing the same direction as the old mark did on the old plate. Lay the new plate over old one, and put the timing mark on in the same place. No degree wheel needed. If you install the plate 180 degrees off, you won't be able to see the timing mark when the pump is installed, and #1 cylinder is on compression stroke at TDC.

You probably already know this, but most parts in that pump are designed to be used one of two ways - for a clockwise rotation setup, or a counter-clockwise setup. That's why so many parts have polarity and you must have them flipped over in correct direction. Most are marked "C" on one side and "CC" on the other. Especially the cam ring, and the fuel pump liner and thrust plate (where the spring-loaded vanes go).
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
It's in my SM-2045, plus a few other tech sheets. SM-2045 has it listed on page 10-25-8 in the far-right column. JDB431MD3027 - roller to roller measurement is 1.971" - 1.972". So it sounds like your's is turned up quite a bit. If it ran OK before, I'd leave it alone, unless you feel it smoked too much previously. 1.978" is the standard setting used when that pump is on the 2520 farm tractor.
I must have an older version of the book. That page only shows 600 series pumps. The dates on the bottom of the page are Oct-71.

Check your private messages.
 

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I must have an older version of the book. That page only shows 600 series pumps. The dates on the bottom of the page are Oct-71.

Check your private messages.
The section for JDB and DB pumps in my SM-2045 is dated April, 1981.
 

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I reinstalled the rollers and the plungers. I went to measure the roller distance.

Applied air pressure in the port to expand the rollers. I measured 1.9785"
I mentioned earlier that the Deere 2520 farm-tractor uses that setting. It has the same 219 cubic inch non-turbo engine that I assume you have, and that setting works fine. Just gives it a little more power under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Thanks. That makes me feel a little better. It can be tricky picking the right o-rings. Some aren't exactly as was on the pump. Who knows, maybe last time it was rebuilt they used different ones. There were no properly sized o-rings in the package that fit the throttle half shafts so I reused the old ones. They looked fine.

Remember I preset the timing before I removed the IP? Since the governor retainer was disassociated from the timing plate that exercise only got me close. Probably within 30 degrees. I found out when I turned the IP to put the marks on it back where they were when I pulled the pump, the drive shaft was off by about 30 deg. So I backed up the IP drive to match it. Hope that works.

Installing the IP now.

Mike
 

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It can be tricky picking the right o-rings. Some aren't exactly as was on the pump. There were no properly sized o-rings in the package that fit the throttle half shafts so I reused the old ones.

Remember I preset the timing before I removed the IP? Since the governor retainer was disassociated from the timing plate that exercise only got me close.

The new o-rings for the shafts are small and have to be stretched quite a bit. What kit did you get?? I just did a pump a few days ago and use the Spaco # 06886, labeled "new modified - o'haul kit for DB and JDB type pumps" and equivalent to #24371. It had everything in it no problem. Has more in it then the OEM Stanadyne kit.

Also about the timing? Something doesn't make sense, at least not to me. The timing mark is on the plate-half attached to the rotor - not to the half that flops around when the plastic breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
Success! She's idling right now. No smoke. Great acceleration. I think I have a new tractor. Can't wait to use it and see what I was missing.

I have a leak underneath of the IP. It's that lower head locating screw that has the socket head screw in it. I took it apart to clean it. That socket head had some really strong sealant on it. I didn't put any on when I replaced it. I'll take care of that later.

jdemaris... thank you so much for guiding me through it. I'll build a little how to article with pictures. Got tons of them.

Also about the timing? Something doesn't make sense, at least not to me. The timing mark is on the plate-half attached to the rotor - not to the half that flops around when the plastic breaks.
Yea I guess you are right. My only guess is compression turned the motor slowly after I pulled the pump?

Yes it was the Spaco 06886 rebuild kit. I left the o-rings in the throttle shaft because they were the red ones and they looked good. Nothing in the kit looked like a direct replacement.

BTW I didn't bother with the brass bushing. The one in there was in real good shape. I used a tie wrap to compress the umbrella seal around the back and my fingernails to push it in the rest of the way while jigling the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Leaks were just untightened bolts. Dry as a bone now. All buttoned up. Ready to go back to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
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