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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I got this baby last year and it ran great til now. Have no clue on model #'s as they've all but disappeared but lot's of serial #'s etc.

I have a few manuals I've been using. Did usual fall/winter storage routine then spring prep.

Ok, it started shutting down during mowing. Would crank until battery died (which battery wasn't giving much so I replaced it). Once it sat for a bit it would start back up run then do same.

I replaced spark plug, points, drained gas, cleaned tank, cleaned carb, replaced oil (30W), Still would not start with each item done.

Went ahead and replaced everything electrical just to eliminate that (have an old 212 for parts I use). Still same result.

Completely lost here. Don't have super mechanic tools or knowledge especially on small engines so be careful when telling me stuff..lol
 

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Swap out the coil from your parts tractor to your good tractor. The shutting down when warm is a sign of a dying coil. My 210 had the same problem when I bought it. It would run about ten minutes, once it was hot it would shut down. After it had cooled down, it would run well until it got up to operating temperature. I bought a new coil for it and that solved that problem.
I learned this about coils from a friends Volkswagen bug that would shut down and leave us walking until we replaced the coil.
 

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Swap out the coil from your parts tractor to your good tractor. The shutting down when warm is a sign of a dying coil. My 210 had the same problem when I bought it. It would run about ten minutes, once it was hot it would shut down. After it had cooled down, it would run well until it got up to operating temperature. I bought a new coil for it and that solved that problem.
I learned this about coils from a friends Volkswagen bug that would shut down and leave us walking until we replaced the coil.
:ditto: Coil would get my vote too but if it doesn't turn out to be the coil re-check the points gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Changed Coil, re-gapped points numerous times from ,18-.22 still same result. So it's not the coil.
I'm getting spark at plug and points, carb gettting gas, plug is wet. I'm going nuts
 

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Don"t mean to alarm you but I think you need to remove the head and look at the valves,sounds like the exhaust valve is burned,on normal motors you can hold your finger over the plug hole and see if there is compression but not on these motors because they have a compression release,If you got gas and spark and compression that is all you need to run sounds like you are missing compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was gonna say I have compression over the plug hole but if that is negated you just ruined my day..lol

Well looks like I'm about to learn something new. As for an FYI just in case what does one of them generally run $$$
 

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Sorry did not mean to ruin your day,If it is a valve ,they are easy to replace,60$ new,if the rings are bad,then there are rebuild kits for $150 ish,some less.These motors are easy to work on.You can do a compression check on these motors by turning the motor backwards with a rope wound around the flywheel.
After re reading your inital post it may just not have enough compression to run.As you stated it would run and quit and cool down and run again is classic low compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Appreciated.. Will keep updated and most likely have questions as I dig into this.. :D

Ebay here I come
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok few more questions I suppose here.
As mentioned I have a 212 for parts that I've been using. I noticed the engine in it is a K301. Will the Valves or other engine parts from there fit the K241 engine?

The K301 is well torn apart from the guy I bought it from but many of the parts came with it and I noticed the valves were still nicely inside the engine.

I also have this Kohler PDF engine manual that goes through reconditioning etc and it talks about all these freaking tools I'll supposedly need. True?? or can I get by will other?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just ordered complete rebuild kit. Bit the bullet and figured if I'm digging in there might as well put all new gut in her
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update:

I finally started on this sucker. Anyway took the head off and found the intake valve and piston were covered with carbon soot and the exhaust valve top and head gasket edge was rust covered.

Cause????

2nd the filter doesnt seem to come off as if its a permenant deal.
 

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The exhaust valve stays hot from exhaust and would show some rust since there is no oil to lube it,Filter,the actual filter or the cover?Either valve stuck or show signs of being burned?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Neither valve was stuck nor burned.

I got the filter cover off. It's the filter thats not coming off, appears glued??

Best way to clean the carbon?
 

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Remove the 3 screws from the carb, they hold the plate on that the filter sets on.Just tear it off and replace it and remove the carb. And clean it too.Putty knife, steel wire brush, razor blade.
 

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That top end dosen't look bad at all.Is there movement from side to side in the piston?The breather looks nasty.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just a tiny bit on the piston. I have the breather soaking to clean it up.

I do have a rebuild kit on the way new piston, valves, gaskets etc... Just in case.
Gonna pull these valves see total condition clean em up and if still good pop em back in and try to find settijgs for em
 

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Not sure what year they started using adjustable valves but if yours dont have adjable you have to grind the bottom of them stem.
 

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The piston looks really carbony, how much has/does it smoke? I would clean it really well, then inspect it for compression once you get the head and a new gasket back on.
 
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