My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just acquired a 1974 Diesel JD2030 with the 146 loader. The hydraulics (front loader and rear draft arms) will not function below 3/4 throttle.
(about 2000 RPM I'm guessing -the needle is laying in the bottom of the RPM gauge)
When they do function they are sluggish/shudder.
The seller told me they would change the fluid and filter and it appears that they did.
Any help is appreciated!

:thanku:
 

·
Just passing through
Joined
·
8,422 Posts
When they changed the fluid and the filter...did they also clean the screen?
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was wondering that too. I did get the owners manual with it and it looks pretty easy to remove the screen and clean it.
I'll check that 1st.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,346 Posts
While you are under the tractor, you might want to check the filter relief valve also. There is a 1 1/4" plug on the side of the transmission, just above the filter canister. Remove the plug and pull out the valve spool to check it. Sometimes a piece of dirt will get into the valve and hold it open. I also wouldn't trust that they changed the filter. drop it down and look at it. If there is any doubt, put in a new one. Some people try to wash them out and reuse them. It doesn't work.
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The seller assured me that the fluid, filter and screen were replaced before the tractor was delilvered.
The tractor has the JD146 Loader hydraulic lines attached to the filter cover so that it works directly off the tractors hydraulic system.
I should mention that at a higher RPM the hydraulics (loader and draft arms) work at normal or almost normal speed.
But, if I hold the boom lever in the raise position and cut the RPM's the boom will actually begin to slowly fall.
Also I should mention that I have not actually put an inplement on the draft arms yet to see how they perform under a load.
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Checked the filter relief valve - it was clean and operating well.
Hope to drain the oil and check filter and screen this weekend.
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK. I checked the filter screen and transmission filter.
Both had been replaced and looked clean.
When I drained the oil out of the front drain plug, I found a piece of metal about the size of a 5/16 washer, but it is shaped like a "c".
At first I thought it was a small C-clip of some kind, but it looks more like a flat shim or washer that has broken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,346 Posts
Does the steering valve area get hot while running? If so, then the orings in the valve are probably blown. If the valve does not get hot, I doubt it is your problem.

I am assuming the "c" clip you found is a clip that holds the independent pto clutch oil lines in place. Have you tried to engage the pto? if an oil line for the pto clutch or brake is broken, it will rob oil from the main hydraulic pump. Try engaging the pto to see if hydraulic operation improves. Also, if you have a hi-lo shift lever on the left side of the dash, try shifting it to both positions and see if hydraulics improve one way or the other. These tests can help pinpoint the problem areas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Have a JD 2030 (Gas) with a similar problem a few years back. After several trials and errors determined it was probably a seal(s) in lift. To save $, removed lift and took it to dealer and had them do a complete rebuild. They found a couple of bad seals. Figured I saved over 50% of rebuild cost by taking in just the lift rather than whole tractor. It was not hard to remove but because of weight removed it under a beam where I attached a come along to lift it off tractor then had friend help lift into pickup.

Regards, Gil
John Deere 2030 (Gas) 1973 and one of last gas farm tractors built by JD. 1973 was last year John Deere produced a gas farm tractor.
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wierd thing happened yesterday. I was trying to get something done with the tractor, and the hydraulics started to work normally. A couple of times they almost stopped completely, but within a minute or so they were back to working. Now they appear to function normally. Still waiting on my JD technical manual to come in...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,769 Posts
Tractor has no hydraulics on loader or rear arms until a fairly high rpm, unless I turn the wheel all the way to the left.

I just read your post and a simple powersteering leak test is to disconnect PS supply line on RH side and cap pressure line. If hyd works correctly steering valve is the problem. Also loader valves if the convertible type can blow an internal seal letting valve revert to open-center.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
853 Posts
Tractor has no hydraulics on loader or rear arms until a fairly high rpm, unless I turn the wheel all the way to the left.

I believe I have a high pressue steering leak as described in this post:

http://ytforums.ytmag.com/viewtopic.php?t=481313
Most of the time, when the steering valve gets a big leak in 2020s, it's just an o-ring (or two) that's blown. The original o-rings were prone to failure and Deere upgraded them to a new, very hard material (around 25 years ago). To fix, usually all can be done from the top without removing any major parts.

To be technical, there is no way to rebuild the steering valve. Unlike the bigger steering valves used in Waterloo Deere tractors, your Dubuque steering uses two cartridges, one for left and one for right -and no internal parts available. To "rebuild" is really just renewing the two major parts which is rarely done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,769 Posts
These are the parts to repair steering if required.
AR81610 BODY STEERING VALVE ASSEMBLY ADD 420.00 USD
AT315816 KIT, OVERHAUL ADD 74.00 USD

The AR81610 is the cartridge that jdemaris referred to in his post.
 

·
Edroden
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
It's been a while since I've been on here.
The tractor has only experienced the issue with the hydraulics maybe twice since my last post - and then only for a few seconds.
I really believe it was a stuck valve in the steering allowing most of my pressure to bypass.
Since then I rebuilt the front axle - what fun that was.
The old tractor has really gotton a lot done for us.
A local farmer that has one very similar gave me some good advice about antifreeze.
He said "use JD or equivilant or it'll eat holes in your cylinders"

Now I have to battle one of the rear tires. It needs to come off so I can work on the rim and put in a new tube.
Any advice on antifreeze?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
853 Posts
A local farmer that has one very similar gave me some good advice about antifreeze.
He said "use JD or equivilant or it'll eat holes in your cylinders"

Any advice on antifreeze?
There is nothing "special" about Deere-branded antifreeze. You need an additive, that's all. The issue is . . . any diesel needs anti-avitation coolant-conditioner added to the coolant to prevent those pin-holes in the sleeves. Some engines get it worse then others; it depends on how thin the cylinder-walls are and how high the horsepower is. The more the walls flex and vibrate, the more the more they constantly "clean" themselves and keep bare metal exposed to the coolant.

The lower power Deere engines (e.g. the three cylinder non-turbo 152 diesel) rarely had problems with cavitation. Same with the four cylinder 202. On the other hand, turbocharged 239's DID have a problem.

Back in the 80s, Ford had such issues with their pickup truck engines. The original International Harvester 6.9 diesel V8 had no issues with cavitation. But, when it got bored out to 7.3 liters, the cylinder-walls were thinner and problems started. Then, in 1994 when the turbo was added, they really had issues. Thus the reason why Ford started selling coolant-conditioner in small bottles (an additive, NOT coolant).

You can buy the additive many places.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top