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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

John Deere 160 Riding Mower

Alright, after fixing a problem I had with my John Deere 160 Riding Mower, where both the clutch and brake pedals stayed depressed when I threw it into reverse, I encountered a new problem.

I had removed the transmission + the back wheels, and realized the transmission was not the issue. So I re-attached the transmission and forgot to plug in the purple 2-prong connector, so my mower wouldn't start.

To get at the plug easier, I had to remove the mower deck. I just reconnected the 2-pronged plug, and now I've forgotten how to re-attach the mower deck.

Currently, the mower deck is hanging by the 2 main support bars that are attached to the mower body. I did not remove the 2 hair-pins that hold the deck to the body. I removed all the other hairpins though, so the deck was hanging low enough for me to get at the plug.

Can anyone here give me a step-by-step for properly re-attaching the mower deck? My local library did not have a copy of the user manual for this particular mower, and to buy the manual right from my local JD supplier would be too pricy.

So can anyone guide me?
 

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1) Ensure that the mower deck drive belt tensioner lever is released. The lever is on the discharge chute side of the mower deck.
2) Attach the rear draft arms to the tractor (this step may be done based on your post)
3) Attach the front draft arms to the rod that goes through the holes in the front attachment mount points. Cotter pins mount through the rod inside the draft arms.
4) Attach the lift straps to the deck (assuming they're still attached to the tractor). The adjustable one goes on the left side if you need to reinstall them first.
4) (a) If you need to reinstall the lift straps hold the deck height adjust arm all the way forward/down. Install the lift straps through the hole on the lift strap and pull them down so they are engaged in the slot. Having a partner to hold the height adjust lever is a big help, otherwise tie it or use a bungee.
5) Reinstall the mower deck drive belt to the PTO. It takes some OOMPH to displace the deck drive pulley to generate enough slack to get the belt around the PTO.
6) Reengage the mower deck belt tensioner lever by pivoting it ~180 degrees to retension the sping that attaches to the two-stack pulley of the mower deck drive.
7) :MTF_wel: and :wwp:
 

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Oh Canada, eh?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you :D

EDIT: I've got questions as I'm repairing this with my father (I'm posting this on behalf of him). He read over your steps and had some questions:

1. "3) Attach the front draft arms to the rod that goes through the holes in the front attachment mount points." <--Which holes? There's 2 set of holes. Upper or lower?

2. Where does the spring and bracket from the chute-side of the deck go? We kinda took the deck off without taking pictures of how everything goes on.

Also, my father is wondering if anyone here has pictures of a John Deere 160 Riding Mower, of the deck area showing how everything is attached.

And the beams I was talking about are connected to the mower body, and they go perfectly vertically down from the body to the deck, and halfway down is where the cotter pins are. Those are the only things we didn't remove, so the deck kind of hangs down at the front, but the majority of the rear end is still supported.

We're taking pictures of what our current mower-deck situation is right now. Hopefully you can revise your guide (if needed) based on what we've got going on.
 

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1) use the lower holes
2) The spring and bracket are the lift assist spring/bracket. I've got pix of it here somewhere... LTG you out there?? You found them last time :banghead3

Your "beams" = my "lift straps" - they connect the mower deck to the height adjust lever.
 

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Oh Canada, eh?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
View from right side of tractor. Lift assist spring and bracket mounted but not tensioned:


Beauty! That's the spring and bracket that we took off and couldn't figure out where it goes.
 

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Beauty! That's the spring and bracket that we took off and couldn't figure out where it goes.
Don't forget to add a cotter pin to retain the lift assist spring bracket.
 

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Great pics !! and will help me when I put mine back on.

Do you have any pics of the brakes and pads ? I have no brakes, when I look under, things move but I don't know what the heck I am looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, so we forgot to take pics of our current mower deck situation, but I'll make sure we get the pictures tonight, and then I'll upload 'em to Imageshack and post 'em here.
 

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Great pics !! and will help me when I put mine back on.

Do you have any pics of the brakes and pads ? I have no brakes, when I look under, things move but I don't know what the heck I am looking at.
175 has a single disc setup on the left side of the transaxle. The brake pedal rotates a bracket attached to the caliper. The bracket (kind of like a W but not quite - hard to describe) depresses two cylinders/pins that slide in the caliper and apply pressure to one of the two brake pads. The other pad is fixed. Step 1 to 100 series brake issues is to check the adjustment of the brake setup. Often it is over tightened which results in no brakes as quickly as under tightened. Its either a 7/16 or 1/2 nut. Best done when the mower deck is off. If that doesn't fix it the slide pins may be stuck. You can remove the caliper to get access to the pins and lube them but its a royal PITA on the 175. I couldn't find the magic tool to get the back caliper mounting bolt so I drilled a hole in the frame and stuck a 1/4" socket extension through it. Lubed the pins and played with the the tensioning nut and found brakes. Added another nut on the tensioner shaft to keep the primary nut from backing off. Sorry but no pix of this mess.
 

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What exactly does the lift assist spring do? Mine has been hanging since I have had my 160. Also if anyone has any info on how to get the deck lift handle button to spring back it stays in all the time and i have to pull it up manually when i lift the deck. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Alright, here are the pictures of our current mower deck situation:

The spring and bracket, not really attached, but where the bracket is in this picture is where I thought it went. As well, you can see the arm in the front there. We couldn't figure out which pin the arm went on, whether it was the one with the bracket/spring hanging on it, or the one behind it.


Here's another shot of the deck. That vertical bar/strap with the hole is one of the 2 straps we left attached. I believe the other one is right across from it, out of sight. And the cotter pin you can clearly see right up front is another thing we left on, that I forgot to mention in the first post


Here's the holes we were referring to when we mentioned 2 sets of holes. So we use the lower holes, yes?


Here's a full shot of our 160. The front bumper was added on by my father. We plan to repaint this mower. Essentially our plan is to repaint all the green areas with a new coat of John Deere green, paint the bumper yellow, and repaint the mower deck yellow, to make it look new.



So hopefully now that you've seen what our current situation is, can you possibly revise the above guide you posted (if needed)? We need to get the deck re-attached as it's been sitting in our garage taking up space for a few days now :p
 

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Alright, here are the pictures of our current mower deck situation:

The spring and bracket, not really attached, but where the bracket is in this picture is where I thought it went. As well, you can see the arm in the front there. We couldn't figure out which pin the arm went on, whether it was the one with the bracket/spring hanging on it, or the one behind it.
That's your lift assist spring and bracket there, the front end of the spring attaches the way you have it, the back end goes where I've put the oval on a copy of your picture, below


Here's another shot of the deck. That vertical bar/strap with the hole is one of the 2 straps we left attached.


That vertical bar/strap with the bolt and the two nuts on it is your deck levelling adjustment

I believe the other one is right across from it, out of sight. And the cotter pin you can clearly see right up front is another thing we left on, that I forgot to mention in the first post


Here's the holes we were referring to when we mentioned 2 sets of holes. So we use the lower holes, yes?
Yup, you use the lower holes... There should be a "draft bar" that goes across between those two lower holes... You lift the front draft arms on the deck into place, slide the draft bar in, then put cotter pins through the holes on the draft bar INBOARD of the draft arms,,

Here's a full shot of our 160. The front bumper was added on by my father. We plan to repaint this mower. Essentially our plan is to repaint all the green areas with a new coat of John Deere green, paint the bumper yellow, and repaint the mower deck yellow, to make it look new.



So hopefully now that you've seen what our current situation is, can you possibly revise the above guide you posted (if needed)? We need to get the deck re-attached as it's been sitting in our garage taking up space for a few days now :p
Here's the direct quote from the JD Owners manual for the installation of the mower

  1. Turn tractor front wheels to extreme left
  2. Push mower under tractor from right side
  3. Connect mower front draft arms to tractor mounting brackets with rod and spring locking pins.
  4. Connect rear draft arms and lift straps. Fasten with spring locking pins
  5. Install mower drive belt

Here's a really not very good picture of the way the front draft arms connect


Hope this helps a bit...
 

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Here's some pics of my tractor's front draft arm connections and lift assist bracket:




Notice how the Lift Assist bracket is horizontal... This puts more tension on the lift assist spring, to give your lift arm more assistance... Its kinda a pain to get on there tho, and it makes it a bit more of a challenge to hook up the lift straps. I found that blocking the mower up on a couple of 2x4 chunks once I had slid it underneath the tractor made hooking the lift straps up a lot easier...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you all very much for all the information :D

However, I still have one question that I feel has been unanswered so far (I read back through all the posts and didn't see anything that answered this question, but I may have missed if someone did answer it)

In this picture below, you can see the J-shaped bar that I've circled the hole on, as well as the 2 pegs.

Does the bar attach to the front peg, where the bracket and spring are attached to, or the rear peg?

We tried pushing the deck back as far as we could in an attempt to connect the bar to the rear peg, but it was a no-go. So I'm thinking it's the front peg, but I'm not 100% sure.



Other than this question, we think we can re-attach the deck now, using the information you all posted. So the next time my father has a day off from work, we're gonna re-attach this deck, and I'll let you all know how it went.
 

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The rear draft arms go on the rear posts. If you look at my pic of my lift assist bracket closely, you can see my reAr draft arm on the reAr post (my mower is in the raised position). If you can't get it onto the rear post, then there's something wrong with how the mower is positioned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The rear draft arms go on the rear posts. If you look at my pic of my lift assist bracket closely, you can see my reAr draft arm on the reAr post (my mower is in the raised position). If you can't get it onto the rear post, then there's something wrong with how the mower is positioned.
Well, my father did have to put a flathead screwdriver in between the bar and the peg and smack it with a hammer to get the bar off in the first place.

I guess it's gonna take abit of strength and manouevring (I think I spelled manouevering wrong lol) to get the bar back into the rear peg.
 

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JohnDeere160Owner Thanks for the great pics they will help me as well. a lot !!
They recently posted the break down of the lift handle and the part #'s, there is a spring in there.
Since my pulleys and spindles are silver and black does that mean they are replacements, were the factory yellow as in the picks ??
 
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