My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here she is boys!
Just picked her up a little while ago. I would be working on it but its my mothers birthday so i probably won't get to it for a while. BUT I AM SO STOKED TO WORK ON IT!!!!! I tried to see if it would fire, no soap, so its time to get a conversion kit and maybe a coil. The machine was keep in really good condition, the guy wasn't kidding!
The tank has a little rust so i might try a tank cleaner kit that also puts a new finish in it. The wheels have absolutely no tread, i assume that is because they lock up when you pull the machine back(, should it do this?), but that's not really important to getting the machine running so that will be a later topic. The oil bath air cleaner is really interesting, and as a question what oil do i use for it?

Thanks and of course pics!







Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
21,245 Posts
Isn't it interesting to see a 50-60 year old machine and compare it with todays products? Steel instead of plastic, rods on the controls and not flimsy control cables that corrode in a couple years. Good luck with that machine. Keep us informed and supplied with photos!
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Isn't it interesting to see a 50-60 year old machine and compare it with todays products? Steel instead of plastic, rods on the controls and not flimsy control cables that corrode in a couple years. Good luck with that machine. Keep us informed and supplied with photos!
You aren't kidding Brad; its sad to see the way they build machines nowadays.

Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
A semi-retired senior cit
Joined
·
2,132 Posts
It a throw away world, seems like the prices shop are charging for a hourly rate would put some out of business. That a good thing no one threw away that reel mower you got there, very nice find. My first new mower was a Moto-Mower in 1957 a 18" reel mower, w/3hp Briggs. I think I paid $69.95 for it back them, I was 15 years old. Did a nice job, it beat pushing a old cast iron reel mower, until the customer wanted the clipping raked up. LOL
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Came across this on another site for owners of jacobsens:

"Tips for running your engine: 1 De-coke the engine and muffler, 2 use fresh oil and fuel mix, 3 remove starter and engine shroud and remove debris from engine cooling fins (this is the second main cause of engine failure on this type - first was improper fuel - oil mixing and ratio [put oil and gas @ 16:1 in seperate can, mix well and then pour fuel mix into engine tank]) You would be suprised at the amount of people who put oil and gas in the mower tank, without mixing it first! 4 do not adjust carb so engine 'sings like a bee' if you are going to use the mower. if you do, the engine will burn out the piston. If the engine is not going to cut grass, it can be set lean, but if the mower is to be used it must be set rich. E Mail me if you need carb set up instructions. 5 reverse the reeds on the intake plate. My Lawn Queen had 1 reed, I have seen some with as many as 4 mounted on the intake plate. Look at the reed(s) and make sure there are no fractures at the mounting holes, or at the pivot point.
make sure the reed isflush with the mounting plate. Do not attempt to bend the reed! If it does not sit flat and flush, try reversing. If it is still not true, replace it! A bent, or deformed reed will cause starting and running problems Make sure ALL mounting bolts, nuts, and screws are tight before running engine! Especially: carb mounts, reed plate - intake manifold mounts, gas tank mounts, engine side bearing mount bolts, head stud nuts, or bolts (early engines had studs). An important thing to remember - air leaks are your enemy in a 2 stroke engine. Have fun!"

I love how my ability on lawn-boys will cross over to jacobsens!

here is the original posting:
http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22496

Thanks,

Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I found out its a 1957 model.
Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,170 Posts
Nice Dan, looks great!

To get spark, I'd try cleaning the points first and go from there. If there is no spark after that, than you will most likely want to get a conversion kit.
T
he wheels skid when you pull it back because the reel most likely needs to be adjusted and is currently too close to the beadknife. Make sure the drive is disengaged ofcourse.

There are two large fillister head screws on either side of the machine in the back down by the reel. These are the adjustement screws for how close the beadknife sits to the reel. Most likely right now the reel is a little too close and is hitting the beadknife too much whhen you try and pull it back. Basically to adjust it you loosen the screws nearest the wood roller about a quarter of a turn. Make each adjustment at very small increments (do a quarter of turn each time) because it does not take much at all to adjust it. After you've turned both of them a quarter of a turn out, try spinning the reel backwards with your hand (carefully so you don't cut you hand!). It should feel like it's more loose now, but if it's still not enough turn each scew out a quarter turn more until you're able to. It states in the manual that you should be able to cut a piece of newspaper along the entire length of each reel blade for reference. If you spin the reel backwards and you don't hear anything, then you know it's out adjusted out to far. Once you've made the final adjustment, thighten the scews in the side plates to lock it in position. Now since the reel will spin backwards, the wheels will be able to as well.

Looks like you found one of my earlier posts on Smokstak. Andrew has been a great asset to me in the wonderful help and insite that he has given me over the years on my Jacobsen and them in general.

Keep us updated.

Austen
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Nice Dan, looks great!

To get spark, I'd try cleaning the points first and go from there. If there is no spark after that, than you will most likely want to get a conversion kit.
T
he wheels skid when you pull it back because the reel most likely needs to be adjusted and is currently too close to the beadknife. Make sure the drive is disengaged ofcourse.

There are two large fillister head screws on either side of the machine in the back down by the reel. These are the adjustement screws for how close the beadknife sits to the reel. Most likely right now the reel is a little too close and is hitting the beadknife too much whhen you try and pull it back. Basically to adjust it you loosen the screws nearest the wood roller about a quarter of a turn. Make each adjustment at very small increments (do a quarter of turn each time) because it does not take much at all to adjust it. After you've turned both of them a quarter of a turn out, try spinning the reel backwards with your hand (carefully so you don't cut you hand!). It should feel like it's more loose now, but if it's still not enough turn each scew out a quarter turn more until you're able to. It states in the manual that you should be able to cut a piece of newspaper along the entire length of each reel blade for reference. If you spin the reel backwards and you don't hear anything, then you know it's out adjusted out to far. Once you've made the final adjustment, thighten the scews in the side plates to lock it in position. Now since the reel will spin backwards, the wheels will be able to as well.

Looks like you found one of my earlier posts on Smokstak. Andrew has been a great asset to me in the wonderful help and insite that he has given me over the years on my Jacobsen and them in general.

Keep us updated.

Austen
Thanks for the information!

The same oil that you use with the fuel mixture, SAE 30 weight non-detergent oil.
I was also wondering about whether I should use SAE 30 or not, and then even after that I thought do the oil and gas ever separate if you let it sit for a while?

Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,170 Posts
I was also wondering about whether I should use SAE 30 or not, and then even after that I thought do the oil and gas ever separate if you let it sit for a while?
I know what you mean, but no I've never had that problem. Because these are plain bronze bearing engines, they need the lubrication of the 30 weight non-detergent oil. Since it is non-detergent, it does not break down in the fuel like normal detergent motor oil would if you were to mix it with the fuel intead.
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
:fing32:
Thanks for the info!!

Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #13










Well those pics probably explain what i did tonight. OGTN how do i go about removing the flywheel?

Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,170 Posts
Nice and greasy, haha.

OGTN how do i go about removing the flywheel?
Once you get the shroud and flywheel nut off I'd Spray some Liquid Wrench/PB Blaster or the like around the middle of the flywheel on the crank and let it soak for a while. After some repeated spraying and soaking, carefully tap the perimeter of the flywheel with a rubber mallet and it may break loose. Take caution if you put a flathead screwdriver on the back of it and try prying it off as the flywheel is made of Zink and can break very easily. This is the method that I've used to pull all of mine off. If this doesn't work, then you will need a puller. The member on the site bwdbrn1 made a great flywheel puller for his Jac. You might send him a pm so he can send you the photos of his, http://www.mytractorforum.com/member.php?u=18767

An automotive steering wheel type puller is another option.

If you are good with a little fabrication, then you can make your own puller like Bruce did. I will quote a friend of mine who gave me advice on how to make one a few years ago:

"You will notice the 3 approximately 1/4" holes in the flywheel. These are usually tapped for 1/4x20. I have a 1/4" steel plate, with the holes in exactly the same location, but drilled for 5/16". In the center of the plate, there is a 3/8"x24 tapped hole, with a grade 8 bolt in it. First I install a nut on the end of the crank, so it wont deform from the pressure applied. Make sure that it is at least 1/8" away from the face of the flywheel. DO NOT hit the crank directly with the mallet - it is soft, and will deform easily.Next I install 3 2" bolts into the flywheel, and then tighten the center bolt pretty tight, and then the rim of the flywheel is rapped with a brass mallet, and the wheel pops loose off the crank".
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
thanks and those starter balls are fun to chase down if you let them run away! haha!
I'm bound to guess it should come off without too much work. but if need be I have a few pullers and one is bound to work!

Thanks
Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,534 Posts
Thanks for the information!



I was also wondering about whether I should use SAE 30 or not, and then even after that I thought do the oil and gas ever separate if you let it sit for a while?

Dan B. :smilie_fl
You can use regular 30 weight oil if you want but the only reason it was used back in the day was because there was no 2 stroke specific oil available. Regular motor oil is designed to NOT burn and 2 stroke oil is designed TO burn. They will both give your bronze bearings proper lubrication at the proper mix rate. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil to keep your engine clean.
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You can use regular 30 weight oil if you want but the only reason it was used back in the day was because there was no 2 stroke specific oil available. Regular motor oil is designed to NOT burn and 2 stroke oil is designed TO burn. They will both give your bronze bearings proper lubrication at the proper mix rate. Use a good quality 2 stroke oil to keep your engine clean.
Thanks for the input/info.
I knew that at one time two stroke oil never existed and always made me wonder that if they used SAE 30 that the oil would separate only because water separates from gas and oil separates from water so i just kinda put two and two together. but it musta worked!! haha

Thanks,
Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,534 Posts
I really didn't answer your question did I Dan? The answer is that 30 weight oil is not made to mix with gasoline and will tend to seperate. 2 cycle oil has additives to help keep it in suspension. Regardless, always shake your 2 cycle gas can before pouring from it.
 

·
Self-Declared Mechanic
Joined
·
254 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
ODF i thought you were just adding some info you knew and thanks for the second reply, no hard feelings?:fing32: I always shake any gas before putting in a tank, not sure why i just do!

Thanks,
Dan B. :smilie_fl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,534 Posts
All is good Dan. Just keep these old 2 cycles up and running. We will never see equipment built like this again.
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top