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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello, I recently acquired a J/D 318 that is a big step up from anything I have ever owned before, & I love the lawn tractor with one exception, the oem factory seat w/ brackets & lack of space between the steering wheel & seat. I have the seat brackets adjusted back as far as they go, but I still am sitting almost on top of the steering wheel. Granted I am a big guy (belly included), but I am sure I am not the only one who has encountered this problem. I have had other lawn tractors over the years & this has not been a problem, nor is it a problem on my smaller J/D 116 mower.
I am tempted to break out my old stick welder & weld on extensions to the seat brackets, but was first wondering if any other J/D 318 owners have any idea's or solutions? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

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Hey Turtleman...welcome to the forum.

The only other thing I can think of is to make a plate that you can bolt to the seat, and then add a more holes closer to the front of the seat so that it can be adjusted further back. I hope that is clear enough. Right now I can't think of a better way to put it. Plus someone else may have a better idea.

I am going to do this to my 214 as well.

Good luck...
 

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I would suggest doing a search or two for the problem by using different wording, I'm sure someone else has had the same problem and solved it.

Dick
 

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I have seen someone before add a piece of flat stock to the top of the U shaped brackets to extend the seat back further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You each have given me some good ideas, & I appreciate each & every reply! In regards to PA318's post & Ron White also being a big guy, that spooked me as size wise he sounds like my twin. Thanks again guys.
 

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In regards to PA318's post & Ron White also being a big guy, that spooked me as size wise he sounds like my twin. Thanks again guys.

:sidelaugh
 

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I heard he was a Goliath???
 

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i am 5' 10" and weigh under 200 and I think the seat is to close. Long legs I guess. I pushed my seat back further than normal. But on the stock springs I do drop down and hit the fender deck and filler. Need to add some springs under stock to support the wieght when it is pushed back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: J/D 318 Seat Springs

Hi John, I agree, I do need to put some springs under the stock ones. First I am first going to check around on Ebay & see if I can pick up a beafier used pair off of a different model tractor. I am still going to re-do the seat pan.
 

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I am 6 ft. and 325 lbs. The sheet metal under my seat brackets was torn. I don't know if I did it or if it was like that when I got it, but after I had it welded, I reinforced it with a 1/8" steel plate underneath to take the stress.
 

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Ha, now I know why my ears have been ringing !!

I am 325lbs but only 5' 19" tall !

Turtleman, First off Welcome to MTF.... Great place and a great bunch of knowledgeable members.

On my 332 I used seat springs that are used on the John Deere 140's because they are both heavier and taller. The springs in the stock shape, are kind of teardrop shaped because of the slant in the fender decks on the 140's. I had to put them in a press at work to spread to open ( back ) end to make the flats parallel to each other. I also had to drill new holes in the fender deck so that I could move the springs back as far as possible.

Here are a couple pictures, hope this helps.

PS: I couldn't find the closeups I had, I will look for the card they are on and post those tomorrow.



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ron, Thanks for responding & also for the welcome. Great looking tractor you have there. I have been given quite a few ideas now, & I am amazed at how informative & helpful everyone is. I wish I had joined this site a number of years ago, as the knowledge gained from others is very beneficial. I have gradually worked my way up to a J/D 318, even though the wife says we can't afford it. Started out with a J/D 111, & then went to a 116 & several months ago ran into this 318. Have had a Snapper LT16 w/ a oem plow, & that rig was very interesting. I have found over the years that I keep wanting more models. Anyways I now have a desktop icon for this site, & hope to catch you all around. Regards, Larry
 

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I had that Problem. The fix was .. I had to put a flat bar. 3/16 X 4" about 16" long between the frame and the fender mount, Then redrill the holes for the springs Back 4 inches. It is perfect; I had just moves some back without the Enforcing bar and the fender deck Spider cracked; Not so with enforcer bar.. Life is good;;. On some I put a coil spring Between the seat and the frame mount to help keep the seat springs from sagging;;
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi Tony, Thanks for the response, your method is what I am going to go with. One question though, will I have room between the fuel tank & the fender deck to install the enforcing bar, or did you have to remove the deck? Thanks
 

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Yes you will have room and I felt it stiffed up the frame. The nice thing you can do the whole job by just taking the 2 back bolts Out slide the bar under drill the mount holes. Then I lift it up ans slide a 2x4" under ir so I don't drill in the Gas tank. Once you have your Flat bar it is a 25/35 Minute job. And it is really worth it. You won't get a belly rub when you drive... DARN>
 
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