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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been quite a bit of fun playing around with the suburban, but now its time to get serious... It runs, moves, pushes and pulls till it looses traction. But this isnt about traction issues...yet.

The more I look at this tractor, the more I find it was used quite hard by previous owners. Just take the front plow for example. Yes...its rusted right out...



The proof of a hard life is in all the pivot points. This is the lower pivot mount on the plow frame.



This is the top connection for the lift rod.



Lower lift rod connection.



The lower pivot point bracket suffered the most damage. Im actually having to hold it up in this picture otherwise it sags.



This appears to be a bracket for the snow blower controls...the holes in it are also worn out considerably.





I had a picture of the upper pivot point, but I dont know what happened to it. Must have gotten lost in cyberspace. Its severely pitted, but its still strong. This plow has also seen a TON of salt...and the snow blower bracket makes me think its from up north.

The slots where the mule drive attachment points slide into the tractor were severely worn both on the tractor and the plow. I fixed those with some weld a couple weeks ago.

After I get down with the plow, its on to everyones favorite past time, Wiring! :drunkie:
 

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Jon I knew the plow was rough but wow it needs help. I seems like the rust hole grew since last week.

BTW the stack looks good.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Nothing some welding and sheetmetal can't fix! Or keep your eyes open for a newer blade- you can always adapt a newer craftsman blade to fit the lift!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually in the first picture you can see part of a old holding tank Im using to make the new blade. Its actually thicker than the original one so it should hold up well.

Im also going to flip the blade, drill new holes for the mounts, and make a new cutting edge with some sort of teeth to help when plowing dirt. That way when the snow falls, flip the blade back over and I can use the smooth cutting edge to clear the snow off the driveway or do simple grading.
 

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That bracket is supposed to contain a rod that will allow you to pivot your blade while staying seated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That bracket is supposed to contain a rod that will allow you to pivot your blade while staying seated.
Really? Cause now that you mention it, I can understand how a rod would go through there and attach to the locking mechanism....but where would the rod attach that actually moves the blade back and forth, below it in the other hole?

If someone can find a picture of this, I could probable replicate something along the original design. All the plows Ive seen on mtf here dont have the angle from the seat option...unless...Im not paying attention enough.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Really? Cause now that you mention it, I can understand how a rod would go through there and attach to the locking mechanism....but where would the rod attach that actually moves the blade back and forth, below it in the other hole?

If someone can find a picture of this, I could probable replicate something along the original design. All the plows Ive seen on mtf here dont have the angle from the seat option...unless...Im not paying attention enough.
not all had angle rods from the seat- I had one that did not- it was 100% manual off the tractor angling.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I got to looking at some other plow setups on newer suburbans and Ive decided...I want to be able to angle the blade from the seat. Granted...my driveway is only about 100ft long up a hill to the road....but I want to be the good neighbor this year and take care of the road before the guy across the street with his JD cut gets to it with his backblade....kinda pay him back. I also simply want to cool factor...hehe.

So far today Ive got most of the holes back to size, and took off the cutting edge.

Ive also decided Ill just swap cutting edges instead of flipping the plow for dirt/snow cause we just dont get alot of snow.

Before, I could "raise" the plow, and with all the play in the linkages, It would still be on the ground. No when I raise it, its up off the ground! Wohoo!

Now to get back downstairs and finish the angle from the seat idea since the brackets are already there.
 

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So I got to looking at some other plow setups on newer suburbans and Ive decided...I want to be able to angle the blade from the seat. Granted...my driveway is only about 100ft long up a hill to the road....but I want to be the good neighbor this year and take care of the road before the guy across the street with his JD cut gets to it with his backblade....kinda pay him back. I also simply want to cool factor...hehe.

So far today Ive got most of the holes back to size, and took off the cutting edge.

Ive also decided Ill just swap cutting edges instead of flipping the plow for dirt/snow cause we just dont get alot of snow.

Before, I could "raise" the plow, and with all the play in the linkages, It would still be on the ground. No when I raise it, its up off the ground! Wohoo!

Now to get back downstairs and finish the angle from the seat idea since the brackets are already there.
So now when you raise it it only has one lift setting. If so thats sweet. That two position lock kind of sucked last time I got to play in the sand pile with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah...that extra position was quick and dirty to get stuff moved.

I guess I cant call this a pure fix-it thread....its more of a fix and add what I want/need on it thread. And like most everything I do, all addons I make will be removable in case I change my mind later on down the road...or for any other reason.

Unfortunately when the sun goes down, the camera ceases to take ok pictures...so pics tomorrow.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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I had one that someone had cut like 5 lift positions in it, and it was so worn even on the top setting it almost dragged the ground- I welded all of then off and just had the lock up position, and the rest was float- I BELIEVE that is how they were from the factory.
My snow/dozer (new style) has a lock up and a lock down position, and it is more of a pain than anything.
 

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Might not help, but my Custom's blade has a rod that unlocks the pivot lock pin and then in the upper corner is another rod that goes back so the operator can pull/push the rod to turn the blade.

Hole is upper right and left to make the push/pull rod work on either side.
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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Might not help, but my Custom's blade has a rod that unlocks the pivot lock pin and then in the upper corner is another rod that goes back so the operator can pull/push the rod to turn the blade.

Hole is upper right and left to make the push/pull rod work on either side.
Yep, thats how the seat operated ones work! It's cool, because you can make a rod that sits just above the right footboard that you press like a pedal with your right foot to release the lock pin, then use a long rod on the top hole of that bracket to angle the plow from the seat- best way possible :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yep, thats how the seat operated ones work! It's cool, because you can make a rod that sits just above the right footboard that you press like a pedal with your right foot to release the lock pin, then use a long rod on the top hole of that bracket to angle the plow from the seat- best way possible :)
Thats exactly what Im doing.

Thanks for the pic sonny, is that winch part of a power lift system? Been toying with the Idea of mounting an actuator for a power lift setup.

Heres what I got done today before burning the ever loving heck out of my finger like an idiot. Got a rod in, and bent for a pedal. welded a bolt on the end, and moved that angle bracket down a bolt.



And here is a little accessory bracket I made. There are going to be several things mounted to this. I might put one on the other side as well, we'll see. I cut notches in it like the other bracket has so its easy on easy off.



Heres whats going on that bracket. :fing32:



I know it looks like Im missing part of my index finger there...but Im not. Thats the one I burned. Forgot a freshly welded piece was hot... :fing20:
 

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Well you have a lot of work ahead of you, but at least the drivetrain is in good shape!
 

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Looking good so far Jon. You are not the only one to get burnt today.:crybaby:
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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You got the right idea with the release from the foot pedal! Know you just need a long piece to go in the top bracket for angling it! Nice start you have! I have started with less than that!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks fellas. I finished mounting the toolbox last night. The rod to angle the blade will have to be bent in a way to clear the toolbox. Also cut the release rod to the correct length. Its not sticking out waiting to grab your shin anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fixed the charging system...or so I think. I found a burned wire going from the key switch the amp meter. tied it together real quick, hooked the jumpers to the car battery and put a digital volt meter on the battery as well. Started out at 12.44 volts. Turned the key and starting it brought the batt down to 11.75. After It started and I let off the key it jumped back to 12.37 and started climbing a .01 of a volt every second or two till about 12.80 and then wouldnt go any higher. I turned the tractor off and the battery was sitting at 12.54V. Id say it works now. Does the rate of charge sound about right to yall?
 

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Cranky Motorsports
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I have never measured it with a meter, but sounds about like the behavious I see with my SS12.
 
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