It was time to join the RF party

Rydplrs · Jul 28, 2015

After getting smalljobs deck and seeing a cache of RF's I decided it was time to get one for mowing. I was torn between a very early 65, and this 66 110h. I felt they were similar in rarity and thought hydraulic lift had a better neat factor. The only thing missing is the pto cover, and I can grab one next trip.

mrbeef · Jul 28, 2015

NICE! Welcome to the Round Fender Club.... be careful they tend to multiply......... Looks like a nice machine. Hydro lift is worth it!!!

Mike X485 · Jul 28, 2015

Congrats on the RF, looks good. :fing32:

Rydplrs · Jul 28, 2015

mrbeef said:
NICE! Welcome to the Round Fender Club.... be careful they tend to multiply......... Looks like a nice machine. Hydro lift is worth it!!!

Thanks, I do want to go back and get the 65. Lol I can resist.

Mike, thanks

I just puts gas in and jumped it but it didn't fire. I have a busy week hunting ahead, but I will find time to get some stuff done and checked.

nick4030 · Jul 28, 2015

Sweet! A rf has been on my wish list for a long time, but one hasnt fallen into my lap yet. In due time. Congrats on the purchase though! Is this one a keeper?

REdington · Jul 28, 2015

Great choice on the hydro lift. Hope you do go back and get the '65 too. That will be a good start on a RF collection.

Smalljob · Jul 28, 2015

Nice Keith..... Especially with the deck. The major difference with the 65 and 66 besides the hydro are the variator connections and adjustments. Let me know if you want a set of lights for either. I have a set lying around.

Rydplrs · Jul 28, 2015

Thanks guys. It is a keeper. The 65 will have to wait. I can justify one and my current vision if my herd is the RF as a dedicated mower. A 140 h3 for grunt work and snow, and I'm looking for an x55 as a dedicated loader.

Here are a couple more pictures

Bill, once I get it going I will look you up. The deck has a hole in the front, but otherwise looks ready to use. I could have got a prettier one, but since I plan to use it this one is fine

Rydplrs · Jul 31, 2015

There is further discussion on WFM, but here is an update.

I found the intake valve stuck and a rust ring pitting the cylinder about 1/2 way up the bore.

There are 3 head studs needing replacement. Small job has offered me some for less then the $23 each they are from the usual sources. I'm not sure I want to invest time or money in this block. I'm not doing a rebuild, I have my doubts the .030 over would clean it up, I haven't found a marking on the piston to see if it's std.

I also have two other possible solutions that are available.

First, swap the engine for another from the same seller.

Second, cannibalize a 71 110 I have that runs but isn't selling for $250. I don't know if the short block is compatible if I saw everything except the block and internals like the crank.

Thoughts?

mrbeef · Jul 31, 2015

Ewwww not pretty on either the intake or the cylinder wall.....

You should be able to clean the carbon off the pistons and it they used an OEM piston it will be stamped.... like this.

I am trying to think what might be different on the '71 110....... I know mechanically the tractors are wildly different.

I like that suggestion though.... what about the oil fill?

There are a couple videos in this thread about cleaning the carbon out of my 112 head.... not sure if that would be helpful for the K181 though since the whole assembly is different.....
http://www.mytractorforum.com/12-john-deere-forum/537241-flare-up-round-fenderitis-again.html

littletractorguy · Jul 31, 2015

Hey congrats on the RF! Sorry to hear about the intake valve and the studs.
Is it a Kohler in the 71? Its going to be a starter motor, not a starter-generator, but you probably know that already.... In the 112, there's a significant difference between the RF Tec's and the SF Tec's... Different block entirely, because of how the starter mounts. Not sure if the Kohlers are more uniform (wouldn't THAT be nice!)...

Rydplrs · Jul 31, 2015

The 71 is a k181.

I would expect to change everything over, but if I'm lucky I could keep the oil pan and flywheel. I think the s/g pulley would bolt on.

Rydplrs · Jul 31, 2015

It looks pretty good from a bolt hole and mounting match.

Crankshafts are the question. Does anyone have either one at hand?

A few differences in layout but similar.

nick4030 · Aug 1, 2015

On my kohler 161, it has the mounting holes for a starter, but uses a starter generator. You should be good there as well. The oil fill tube is changeable as well if that's an issue

KATT · Aug 1, 2015

Still looks like it has potential. :thThumbsU

The PO shouldn't be allow near a rattle can of paint :sidelaugh

Rydplrs · Aug 1, 2015

KATT said:
Still looks like it has potential. :thThumbsU

The PO shouldn't be allow near a rattle can of paint :sidelaugh

At the very least someone should have provided instructions with the roll of tape. I can live with ag green, but not the neon front rims.

Rydplrs · Aug 6, 2015

Got back to work on this today. Started stripping the 71. When I got the pto off I wanted to check the RF. It only took a couple tools to get the RF well on its way.

The pto even came off without a puller but was not loose.

I'm having a victory beer, although I expect to find horrible problems or can't go this good. Even the muffler was easy.

Smalljob · Aug 7, 2015

Next hurdle will be flywheel. Impact wrench and you will need a different puller. The 3 jaw may still be needed if you have to open the transaxle.

Rydplrs · Aug 11, 2015

After finding this decal I don't feel any attachment to the original block.

Are there any negatives to leaving the stator with the wires unhooked? I'll change flywheels if it works, I do have that puller set.

Although I called it a waste, I never truly feel that way about buying tools. My last 3 jaw was a victim of my 69 hub that I had to cut off.

My other decision is a severely clogged walbro carb that looks new, or a Carter fully adjustable one with a sloppy throttle shaft. To me it seems simple, but I wanted to ask if I'm missing something. I have a drill press and I'm thinking I can pull off adding a bushing if that's how I go.

Smalljob · Aug 11, 2015

In my mind go Carter. The last Carter I added the bushing to did not require any drilling. My 140 Carter 30. Check out Brian Miller's page.

The other issue if I recall correctly with the Walbro is the choke linkage would need to be modified t work on a K181. The Carter lever moved up and down the Walbro moves left and right.

Information about the Carter, Kohler and Walbro Carburetors, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems

FYI he also has a page on flywheels

It was time to join the RF party

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