Issue after driven disc replacement

2392 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by propwash, Dec 6, 2015

medic2230

Discussion Starter · Oct 14, 2015

I replaced the driven disc today because the old one was eat up and falling apart from old age it looked like. Now I'm having to shift to the higher speeds to get it moving and it doesn't want to pull up a hill. I also had the clutch cable pop out of the spring plate? Where it mounts at in the plate under there. Looks like maybe the hole may have gotten to big to hold the cable in there right or maybe the cable end wore itself down.

I did feel the drive disc while I had it up and it feels like it has ridges on it and is not completely flat if it should be which I'm assuming it should be.

A few times it has kind of chattered when trying to make it go forward.

Any thoughts on how I might can remedy this?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. I just got this a month ago so I don't know a whole lot about them yet. The model is 331313BE if that helps.

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propwash

· #2 · Oct 15, 2015

I'm posting a page from the series 13 parts book.My scanner seems to have a mind of it's own,and cut the size down,the P/N is 7033293. To briefly explain the "clutch action" , the cable only works to dis-engage the clutch,and when released,the spring pulls the arm, ,moving the "yoke" #15,up against the "bushing" on the "tail" of the chaincase(not shown),locking the discs together.There's very little "linkage" on this series,and,if there's "slack" it would be in the yoke bushings#16,or maybe,wear in the "slot" in the yoke,caused by the "bushing" sliding,instead of rolling.Also,is the arm moving far enough to hit the rear,of the main case,and not letting the arm fully travel?Also there's the question,did you get the disc,with the "liner" a ring of paper like materiel inside the disc?

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medic2230

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 15, 2015

I didn't get a new paper spacer but I reused the one that was on it when I took the disc off. It was between the outer plate and the driven disc when I took it off. Should it be inside the driven disc?

Everything on the plate you scanned feels tight without any play in it. Where the clutch cable connects to #22 it is wanting to come through the hole that holds it. I wrapped some wire around the clutch cable ball to make it a little bigger to hold it there.

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propwash

· #4 · Oct 16, 2015

The disc for the smooth clutch,in some illustrations, the problem is there are 2 different configurations. The old "snapping clutch" disc is bolted solid to the hub,the smooth clutch,just floats,between the cover and the hub. Some folks selling them,don't know the difference,and some first time mechanics,too. The only difference is the liner,shown in some of the illustrations,the smooth clutch needs the liner to work. The "thrust washer" you mentioned,is between the cover and the disc.

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tomw0

· #5 · Oct 16, 2015

To add more fuel to the fire, I have a disk that I took off my 8 series which does not have a separate liner. The inner edge of the driven disk has what appears to be a rubberized surface rather than a removable liner. I got the replacement, and wasn't sure what to do with it, but as I remember, the loose liner was inside the disk, so I left it there.
My impression is that the liner gets compressed as the disk contacts the platter on the bottom of the PTO shaft, allowing a little less 'jerk' as it engages. The disk will rotate with the input disk it is bolted to with a little 'give' as it is not a tight fit. The thin 'white' disk between the driven disk and the chain case disk is an anti-rattle, anti-squeak preventer. I think.
tom

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propwash

· #6 · Oct 16, 2015

A "troubleshooting" guide from the 'series,4,5,6,and later" service manual. this is kind of "generic" since it covers,so many "series" but still usable,and it's the only one available. Notice "A" tells you to "adjust clutch guide" your series doesn't use one.This also assumes things,like your having the proper disc installed. You c an disregard "g-j" since yours will drive sometimes.

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medic2230

Discussion Starter · #7 · Oct 16, 2015

I believe I may have figured it out. I believe the yolk is worn down and giving the mechanism with the driven disc just enough room to slip. It works as you move the gears higher because that part isn't used much and thus doesn't get the wear that the lower gears get. It looks like the yolk tapers down towards the end where 1,2,3 gear is supposed to engage. Going to try a new yolk and see if that fixes it.

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funtruck

· #8 · Oct 16, 2015

I just ordered a new yoke as well. A $10 part if I recall.

Good Luck

NOVAZ27

· #9 · Oct 17, 2015

Hello. Do not forget to lube the bushing on the end of the secondary chain case. This bushing is located on the end of the rod barely shown on the pictures below. They will rust/freeze up and can wear out the slot in the yoke prematurely. Make sure that the bushing rolls/rotates with ease. You can use engine oil or inject some grease somehow. I just use some old Hypoid 85-140 wt. automotive differential grease I saved from an automotive project. It does not seem to run out of the bushing as quick a lighter weight regular engine oil would and it is EP rated. Grease works the best but getting some into the bushing is a little more difficult.

JUST A THOUGHT.

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2

propwash

· #10 · Oct 17, 2015

Another "trick" with the chain case bushing,is to remove the "snap ring",clean,and lube the area,then "reverse" the position,especially if there's a "groove" worn in it. this could save ordering a new bushing for a while.

medic2230

Discussion Starter · #11 · Oct 17, 2015

funtruck said:
I just ordered a new yoke as well. A $10 part if I recall.

Good Luck

$21 here from the local shop. I found it online for $16 but I try to support my local shops when possible and for $5 difference I figured it would help them more.

medic2230

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 17, 2015

NOVAZ27 said:
Hello. Do not forget to lube the bushing on the end of the secondary chain case. This bushing is located on the end of the rod barely shown on the pictures below. They will rust/freeze up and can wear out the slot in the yoke prematurely. Make sure that the bushing rolls/rotates with ease. You can use engine oil or inject some grease somehow. I just use some old Hypoid 85-140 wt. automotive differential grease I saved from an automotive project. It does not seem to run out of the bushing as quick a lighter weight regular engine oil would and it is EP rated. Grease works the best but getting some into the bushing is a little more difficult.

JUST A THOUGHT.

Thanks for the info. I'll make sure I do this. I want this rider to last a long time.

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medic2230

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 17, 2015

dc 3mech said:
Another "trick" with the chain case bushing,is to remove the "snap ring",clean,and lube the area,then "reverse" the position,especially if there's a "groove" worn in it. this could save ordering a new bushing for a while.

That's an even better idea. That would also be a better way to get the grease in there to lubricate it. Thank You for all the help.

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medic2230

Discussion Starter · #14 · Oct 17, 2015

Thank you everyone for all the help you've provided so far. The yolk was ordered yesterday and they said it will be here Monday.

medic2230

Discussion Starter · #15 · Dec 5, 2015

Yolk was installed and fixed the problem. Woohoo! Works like a champ again.

propwash

· #16 · Dec 6, 2015

Glad you got it working,and thanks for letting us know the final outcome.We never hear about some,and it all goes to our "collective knowledge".

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