My Tractor Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
well i have a l21zpnb steel deck has an F engine and it has the pullsart on the handle, but the pullstart is the geared kind under the shroud, and if i pull it all the way out like a normal pull it only turns the engine over once or maybe two times if i really try hard my other lbs that have under the shroud stile pullstart go over about 3 to 5 times when i pull them.

advice please :praying::praying:

i have been starting it with a drill and its kind of stooped because i have to push the mower over to the drill every time i want to start it

thanks in advance
Cap
 

·
My Orange Jane Deere
Joined
·
3,358 Posts
I hope someone can help you cuss that went way over my head. :sorry1:
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
5,064 Posts
Yeah I am also having a bit of a hard time understanding what is going on. It sounds to me like you have all zone start models, but one of them has the old gear reduction starter and the gear reduction start model is being hard to start. I really think that your problem is not in the starter, but something like a possible fuel issue ie. choke, primer issue, because to me it really doesn't matter how far you pull the rope or how many times the engine turns over, if it is tuned right and running properly it shouldn't need a drill to start it. When I start mine I probably only use a 1/4 pull and you shouldn't have to pull real hard.
 

·
LawnBoy mech in training.
Joined
·
113 Posts
Could the pull cord have broken in the past? I had a 7073 that I broke the rope on - my fix? I dropped the handle from the top eyelet down to the bottom eyelet and just pulled from there. I'm the king of fix-it-with-what-I've-got. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
The Recoils that the rope travels from through a series of Eye hooks and then to the handle only spins the engine over a few times, On all of my machines that used that were like that.

Like LB77 said though, usually it should start with a few pulls, if everything is right...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,866 Posts
Perhaps you just simply need to replace the cord with a new one, long enough for the recoil, then the added length to reach the handle starting position.
 

·
redneckyankee
Joined
·
195 Posts
CAPSTAN!!!!! i start one of my mowers with a 18v cord less works great put a hoster right on the machine ?>/'.".":, papas yards
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I am also having a bit of a hard time understanding what is going on. It sounds to me like you have all zone start models, but one of them has the old gear reduction starter and the gear reduction start model is being hard to start. I really think that your problem is not in the starter, but something like a possible fuel issue ie. choke, primer issue, because to me it really doesn't matter how far you pull the rope or how many times the engine turns over, if it is tuned right and running properly it shouldn't need a drill to start it. When I start mine I probably only use a 1/4 pull and you shouldn't have to pull real hard.
you nailed it lb77

id doesn't start in two pulls tho... it won't start with the pulstart at all

but when i use the drill it starts in two cranks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
CAPSTAN!!!!! i start one of my mowers with a 18v cord less works great put a hoster right on the machine ?>/'.".":, papas yards
odd





cap
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,418 Posts
it seams like its got good comp but i'll check anyway
Seems and has is a different story. I was working on an echo this week and it pulled over great, got gas, and spark but wouldnt run. Pulled over with 30 psi of compression. Half the ring was stuck in the piston.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Seems and has is a different story. I was working on an echo this week and it pulled over great, got gas, and spark but wouldnt run. Pulled over with 30 psi of compression. Half the ring was stuck in the piston.
interesting mine runs tho
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
i don't think so where do you get one
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
5,064 Posts
The reason that I am thinking that it is compression is that even if the choke or primer or both are non operational the mower should still start by hand pulling, with a lot more pulls of course. Eventually crankcase compression should draw enough fuel into the crankcase where it will be pushed into the combustion chamber and ignite. It seems that the only way right now that this is taking place is by forcing the piston to travel at a much higher speed than normal to overcome the lack of crankcase/cylinder compression. I would try pouring a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug hole and try starting if it starts right up then you know that you have a ring/piston seal issue if it still does not start then you still may have a crankcase compression issue, ie reeds, or maybe bad sealing of the crankcase (upper and lower seals)
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
i don't think so the mower was just rebuilt spring this year but ill try
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
5,064 Posts
No chance that a seal got rolled during install? I know that I have done it a time or two, luckily I caught it right away. LOL
 

·
4K Poster!!!!
Joined
·
5,064 Posts
One other thing to consider is the coil, I know some of those coils have a dual timing output for easier starting, the start up phase of the coil maybe toast. Can you slave in a known good coil. I don't think we are dealing with an old coil and points/condenser setup are we? What we have here is solid state setup right?
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top