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1025R FILB Owner
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Discussion Starter #1
Although this is only my 2nd post, I've done a bit of reading on this forum and I figure this is the best place to start. I have a 3225 that has 2 valves, one for the deck, one for the snowblower lift. I plan on adding the angling valve next and to get a front blade. After that, and assuming I can get the parts, I would really like to add the rear 3 pt and get a tiller. So that all said, here is my question:

Can the deck lift be moved to the 4th aux. position, without too much difficulty? I have reasons for wanting to do this, the most obvious is so that when others use the tractor for mowing, they only need to remember the one lever by itself.

And this may not be the best place to post this, but a good dealer source for ordering parts, like the 3 pt and aux valve would also be a useful. I live in Michigan and my local dealer is absolutely terrible to deal with. I ordered wheel weights today and you would have thought I asked the guy for his first born instead of price and availability.

Thanks and this site is great!
 

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The simple answer is "yes, it can be done". However, the devil is in the details. You will have to fabricate your own lines for each circuit. Not a daunting task if you have a tube bender, a flairing tool and some experience.
 

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Cub Cadet Owner for LIFE
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When you say auxiliary position I assume you mean auxiliary valve. If the valves are all the same, then you could just move the lines going to the deck and swapped them from the other one you want to use.
 

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I suspect you have seen this, but there is another post a little further down this page "GT3200 hydraulic guestion" that has an intresting link near the bottom. I think it may be a little tricky relocating the lines for the deck lift to the ouside of the frame. These lines are not really what I call flared, they have a small ridge that holds an oring about a 5/16" from end of tube. All of this is held on with what closely resembles a distribitor hold down with one bolt for both lines. They would need to line up pretty much perfect to have much chance of sealing. These are easy to service and orings don't cost much, but are also a little bit delicate.
 

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These lines are not really what I call flared, they have a small ridge that holds an oring about a 5/16" from end of tube.
A flairing tool is used to create the ridge that rests on the o-ring/valve. A good flairing tool makes more then one type of joint.
 

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1025R FILB Owner
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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm... I haven't pulled the fenders off of it yet, but after reading the replies, I'm a bit more curious as to how hard it would be. I need to invest in a good flaring tool set and tubing benders for another project I'm working on. Would make a good project after the snow season is over but before the grass starts growing...
 

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You will need to look at tools that make push connect type flares which is the top one in the photo, or the second video linked here http://www.mastercool.com/pages/flaring_tools.html Kinda pricey, seems well reviewed though. I did find that Dorman sells adapters for custom engine swaps that will go from push connect to a common pipe thread type fastener. Keep us posted, I would be intrested to know if the oring backers shown in the ipls are in fact there. Mine wern't and most of the posts I read prior to doing mine said same. Getting the fenders off is about a 20 minute job. http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/770-10227/770-10227.htm here is a service manual that tells how.
 

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1025R FILB Owner
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299 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
The tool in the video is the type I was planning to purchase. Of course, if I can't locate a 3 point hitch kit then there won't be a reason to move the valves. It seems the angle kit is a lot easier to come by. Thanks for the manual link. I can see it coming in handier than the paper copy...
 

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MTF Member
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The tool in the video is the type I was planning to purchase.
I looked at the tool last night at my local NAPA. The Mastercool Universal Flaring tool is sold there. :fing32:
It is a very well made tool, it felt solid and smooth when I tested it with a blue piece of 3/8 alum. tubing ( just to double check that it only made a perfect bubble flare) and not the neck down that occurrs after the bubble, rats.
Well it's back to the specialty shop 45 mins away if needed. I'm still looking for a kit that can make this end, that's used on our 3000 series.
DMAC
 

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1025R FILB Owner
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Discussion Starter #11
That's a great picture comparing the two connections. And if you find a tool, please post what it is. Its also good to hear first hand the tool works well as I still need one for another project.

As a side note, the local dealer (who became much more friendly when he found out I wanted more parts) quoted me $889 for a 207 3pt kit. Sound about right? The 412 wheel weight kit was $116 out the door.
 

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Sadly yes, sounds about right for the three point kit.
The kit is stout (same lift piston as a Snapper 1855 A):dunno:
 

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Seems about right in the price range if it is the entire 3-point kit.

The hydraulic cylinders are pricey, you dont want to break them, I found out the hard way last spring when I busted the cylinder for the snowblade pivot. I was ablr to purchase a entire pivot kit cheaper than just the cylinder through my dealer.

The handles can be moved easyer than trying to rerout the lines, as I dont use the mowing deck lift on my 3235 I just removed that handle and put the rear 3-point handle in its slot, had to heat and bend the handle to fit, but it works.
 

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Dont know how the seller of the blade can claim the PO is mounting a snowblower onto the tractor without the main lifting part.
The blade is a quick disconnect from what is shown ans the blower attaches inplace of the blade.

SO my guess is the seller is not telling the whole truth.
 
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