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I try and do most of my own work and I guess I'm semi-stout. After reading these replies I think I just need to rule out ones w/o e/s
Is that abbreviation e/s referring to electric start or a medical condition? (I tried a computer search to see if it's a medical condition but neither electric nor medical came up) :tango_face_wink:
 

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I have a Snapper with a 12.5 B&S engine with both electric & manual starting. I used the electric start for the first summer, I stored the battery properly but over the winter it went bad. I taped the wires from the starter and removed the battery. Now I can stand it on it's butt with no fear of the battery leaking and destroying paint or wiring. I don't see the need of buying a new battery when it always starts with 1-2 pulls. Of course like all things, I'm getting older so the electric starter may be used again shortly. :tango_face_surprise
 

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I have a Snapper with a 12.5 B&S engine with both electric & manual starting. I used the electric start for the first summer, I stored the battery properly but over the winter it went bad. I taped the wires from the starter and removed the battery. Now I can stand it on it's butt with no fear of the battery leaking and destroying paint or wiring. I don't see the need of buying a new battery when it always starts with 1-2 pulls. Of course like all things, I'm getting older so the electric starter may be used again shortly. :tango_face_surprise
Good point about insulating the pos bat cable.. If the Pos battery cable is not isolated with no battery installed and gets grounded while the engine is running it can blow a fuse or smoke the charger stator winding and or the diode.:tango_face_surprise
 

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I suppose the electric start would make it handy if the wife needed to mow. Personally I have no issues pulling a recoil to start a small engine, and I keep mine maintained so they always start easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Don't give em any ideas Forest or they will create a pill for it. Lots of great info in this thread. I don't even own a snappy yet but I was supposed to look at one this weekend. Also I noticed that there are larger cranking pull handle. Has anyone ever used one before for harder starting/temperamental engines.
 

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Hi,
Electric start not needed for my two rear engine riders.
The older one is a series 16 and 10HP Briggs Power Built that I bought in 2001.
The other one is a bit newer, bought used and 11HP Briggs Intek.
Both start with recoil at (1) pull (usually), and by 2 pulls -always-. It's a very positive throttle-choke system and works like a charm.
I keep batteries on them, but so nice to have the recoil backup and knowing they'll start.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Finally bought my first snapper. Yah me! It's a sr1028. I have to clean the carb and try to get it running. It has a 11hp Briggs. Does anyone know what size battery I need cause mine is missing?
 

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Most likely a U1..A U1 measures about 73/4 by about 51/2 inches by about 71/2 inches high...measure the tray in your machine and make sure that would fit in then check which side your positive and negative posts are on an make sure you get the right one to properly align with what you have....make sure you have the little bolt and nut and washer you will need...I always buy the greatest CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) that I can get...some people think that is a waste of money and just get the cheapest thwey can at Walmart...bit I like to be able to depend on the equipment when I want to use it....some batteries are just lemons and die right away...it has happened to me with high priced batteries....but overall I find it worth it to go for the extra couple bucks
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks mark. Will measure tray and cut me a cardboard template along with cable orientation and take it to the parts house
 

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I would suggest you shop a bit before committing to a 'parts house' battery. For the most part, they all have a 90 day warranty. After that, too bad.
Most are made by one of two companies, so there's not a lot of difference. Johnson Controls for one, and I think, Exide for the other. Sure on Johnson, not so on Exide.
Either way, you will find any store other than Wally will cost you about double what an Everstart does. Same volts, same amps, and same warranty.
I for one refuse to pay for the brand name because that's all it is. A name slapped on a battery coming down the assembly line. A $55 Die Hard does not die any harder than the Everstart. And you can buy two Everstart batterys for the same money.
Some will have infant mortality and die within the 90 days, and some will last a lot longer. I can only say, do not let them get discharged completely, or the life will be cut. Keep the electrolyte above the top of the plates. Add distilled water, or water from a dehumidifier(totally non-ionic with zero minerals), unless your tap water is very low on minerals and other chemicals.(I don't know water, except from a hose in summer, right from the well sure tastes good).
I have had some Everstart batteries last a good long while. I learned to put them on the charger at least once a month when not in use. I did get the 'bigger' of the two offered last time. It may crank a little faster than the other, but it is 6-7 years newer.
I have not found the 'other' model, where + and - terminals are reversed, but was able to use whichever was on the shelf. Do clean the terminals with baking soda & water solution, and dry well before installation. You can use 'wing nuts' instead of normal fasteners as is done on Snappers without problem if you want quick easy disconnect without tools.
tom
 

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Agree with tomw0 on Wally for battery purchase. Just bought a group 24 truck battery - 3yr full replc warranty for $94 vs $150 at AZ, AAP, Oreillys. I could have gotten a 1 yr battery for $50 but sales guy said they always fail in 1 yr and 2 days. I guess the price difference would apply to UT batteries, also.
 

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I remember a starting trick from when I rode British "
Big Singles. There was a "compression release" on the bikes ,but not used while cranking. It was to let you easily get past compression . You ease the cranh just pat compression then give a strong kick ,building speed to get over the nest compression. I use a similar method on hand starting mowers , It gives good results ,just ease it past compression then give a strong pull , most start in one pull (if everything has already been done, choke gas on etc ) "
 

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You will have to usually watch the battery post layout on some snappers due to short bat cables. Usually around 200-230CCA will crank a 11 HP Briggs.

You can test crank your engine before hand by using jumper cables from a 12v auto if desired. Winter time is a bad time to buy a bat that has a 90 days warranty. You may need another bat. by next spring. They are going to hit for for about $12 core. I've traced in some 6 and 12v gel cell bats at wal mart for a core. I tried a 9v transistor radio battery as a core but the dork employee frowned on that one when he seen it in the shopping cart. I had to go get my regulator bat for a core exchange.:tango_face_wink:

That being a Snapper you can usually find a owners and maybe even a FREE service manual on-line using your Model number.
 
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