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From all of my research, that part is no longer available new? I hope I am wrong! I have a 3121 hoe also. My spline is still working, but when using the swing function, I can see that that the shaft goes back and forth inside the cap at the top. The cap itself is another part that is very difficult if not impossible to find.

After searching for HOURS looking for a fix, there are not many available. If your cap is still decent, you could have your old shaft spray welded, as that will add to it's thickness and make a tighter fit. Another fix is to take the cap off and then make a cut in in it perhaps an 1/8 of an inch wide, then drill a hole in it sideways and put a bolt in it. You can then draw it tight like a clamp? They say it works but you ruin the cap..............

Another fix is to have key ways cut into the shaft at the top and also in the cap and re-assemble it?

The next one is to drill into the shaft at an angle through the cap first and install hex head or cap screws/bolts. The down side to this is that if they snap off......................

I have seen people drive nails into the slots! While it works short term, the nails just make the gap larger when they wear out and then you have a REAL mess!. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Superdog1,thanx for the come back. I going tom have then spray weld the shaft and be done with it. Wish I had a machine shop that I could use I could mke these shaft about 2 a day. If i knew thier was a real mark mfor them I could do the turning and job the splines. O well go enough prodjects as it is. Once again Thanx:trink39:
 

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Good luck! We HAVE a machine shop and are unsure which way to go?:eek:

While we don't do any spray welding, we can do everything else?. Without having the exact specs. I have no clue which part is bad, the cap or the spline? I wish I had the parts diagram or an exploded view of the entire assembly? While doing my research, I read that the shaft and spline on the end of it are an odd ball size and not readily made (or found obviously!)

While it seems as though the entire tractor uses SAE sizes, it appears as though this spline may be metric? as others have tried to get it made and only get shot down because the machine shops have no clue what it is?

I only have my 3414 about 3 days, so I am still trying to learn everything I can about it, so if you have any information you would like to share, feel free?:thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
One of the reasons that it may seem metric to is because a good many of these machines were built in England.Belive me when I get some usful info I will shoot it out to you.
Come on can anyone out there help us out:madpc:
 

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Superdog1,thanx for the come back. I going tom have then spray weld the shaft and be done with it. Wish I had a machine shop that I could use I could mke these shaft about 2 a day. If i knew thier was a real mark mfor them I could do the turning and job the splines. O well go enough prodjects as it is. Once again Thanx:trink39:

I've seen many of them fixed just buy drilling holes on top between the splined collar and splined shaft and then driving pins into the holes. Many around working fine after that was done.

Personally, I think you'd have to be nuts to remove that entire shaft, weld, machine new splines and then try to harden. Even if you did. you'd still need a new a new collar to match. All that work would be more then the hoe is worth.

I did the 3121 shaft/collar on my 3414 maybe 15 years ago and it's been fine - at least that part of it. Has 8 pins in it. I just had to make a new hydraulic pump drive for the front also - since those parts are also near impossible to find - or so costly they're not worth buying. Also just put a new hoe-swing/stabilizer and steering pump on it that I got shipped over from Scotland.
 

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I've seen many of them fixed just buy drilling holes on top between the splined collar and splined shaft and then driving pins into the holes. Many around working fine after that was done.
Quick question? Is the spline and the collar both supposed to be the same height at the top? My spline is like an inch lower than the top of the collar and this doesn't seem right?
 

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Quick question? Is the spline and the collar both supposed to be the same height at the top? My spline is like an inch lower than the top of the collar and this doesn't seem right?
Nope, it's not right. The top of the splined shaft should be flush with the splined collar.
 

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Thank you sir for that answer!! I didn't think it was right!:fing32:
I posted photos at your other post on the same tractor, showing the collar. Here are a few diagrams for a 3414 gear-drive (not torque converter drive) with a hoe-loader.
 

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Thank you VERY, VERY much for the diagram. :thanku: After looking at this, I am starting to wonder if the nut at the bottom IS the reason my shaft sits almost an inch lower. Maybe it is something else altogether? From the diagram, it looks as though tightening the nut would pull it down even further?? Now my wheels are really turning! Can you see the smoke from your house?, Lol:rolleyes:
 

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Oh yeah make sure you loosen that setscrew.Its in the yoke area where the two hoses come thru.
Thanks for the advice, as I need it! I thought I would put a picture of my wonderful project. I plan on posting a lot of them as I go through the repair process. I hope it helps others at some point?
 

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Hello, i have a 3414 that i am restoring along with the backhoe and the famous swing attachment. I have ended up with 3 extra swing attachments that i will be restoring (rebuilding) along with my swing attachment to sell. I have the valve bodies for these hoes as well. They have been rebuilt to sell when i rebuilt my valve bodies. There is a lot more to the swing pin problem you are having than has been explained. Before you start spending money on spraying the spline the whole picture needs to be looked at or you will just be wasteing your money. Even my rebuilt swing attachments are going to be sold with a stipulation. If its worth fixing then its worth fixing right.
 

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Hello, i am restoring my 3414, as i am rebuilding my tractor parts i am also rebuilding the extra tractor parts i have acquired to sell as ready to use. All valve bodies have been completely rebuilt. They were boiled clean, all o-rings replaced, all back up rings replaced, the valve body poppet was polished, any bad springs replaced, the poppet valve seat was lapped, the anti-cavitation valves disassembled cleaned with new o-rings, the pilot operated relief valve were disassembled cleaned with new o-rings, all snap rings were replaced. All the spools in these valve bodies are in excellent shape. Pictures of these parts and work done are avail. I ended up with these extra parts while looking for parts for my own tractor. I might as well fix them while i'm fixing my own to sell them to help recover all the **** money i spent. Each valve body sells for $250 you may buy as many as you like. The long bank bolts and spool handle adapters and pins are also avail. The valve bank end caps are also avail. When purchaseing a valve body i need to know what plug or relief valve is on yours as well as its psi which will be stamped on the end. Thank you regards dave
 

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Dave, I'm glad you are restoring your tractor! Where in God's name did you find all of these parts? Most of us have searched high and low for these parts, good, bad or even scrapped stuff, Lol How many valve bodies do you have?, as I am very interested. You can IM me if you would like to keep it personal?. Thanks ahead of time!
 

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Well i'm not going to tell you finding any parts for a 3414 is easy, but they are out there. I have been working on mine for over 6 yrs. My job keeps me so busy its been tough to finish my tractor. In my search for parts i have found that all of us that own these ih backhoes have the same problems with a few areas on the tractor due to bad design or lack of preventive maintaince knowledge. The swing attachment is the biggest item. If your attachment's pin is not flush with the pillow block at the top i suggest you stop useing the back hoe immediately. If it has been that way for a long time well then the damage is already done. Further use will make the repair more exspencive. The swing attachment sets on a 1 1/4 thick plate which is part of the tractor it has a special countersunk hole in it to match the special bushing with double countersunk edges. Lack of grease in this area eats up this special bushing, then eats the pin above the threads, then eggs out the counter sunk hole in the plate therefore allowing the entire attachment to drop downward. I am working with the machine shop to build a generic bushing kit to sell with my restored swing attach. To solve this problem. Every one that has this tractor is going to have this problem, it can be fixed. Regards dave
 
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